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Discussion Starter #1
Last night I had a slight hesitation while starting the 72. This morning it started ok, I went to the hardware store and back. When I wanted to move it back into the garage it wouldn't start. Not enough charge to crank over the starter. The starter and battery are both about one year old.

After I charged it for an hour, it fired right up. Checking voltages, I have 14.4v at the alternator at idle, the battery shows 14.2v at idle and 12.5v with the engine off.

I'm thinking something is draining the battery, sooo....I checked the power lead to the windshield wipers (with the engine off), and I see a 0.5v draw, and also a 0.4v draw at the electric choke lead. These shouldn't show any draw with the ignition off should they?

I sure would appreciate some help pointing me in the right direction.
 

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DC PIT CREW BOSS
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Did you check voltage when it woouldn't start? How long did it sit before you move it into the garage? Sometimes SMC are bad about not starting when they are hot. when this happens the solenoid has just enough friciton when hot to not engage the starter. If this is the case you can put a cover between the starter and theblock or you can do what a lot of hot rodders do and put a (here's the "F" word) Ford starter relay and then bypass the starter cable post to the solenoid starter wire port. As far as the low voltage it could be a back voltage from another source. To find a current draw, disconnect the negative battery cable and put a test light between the post and the cable. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out and you will find the circuit the is causing the problem. Good luck
 

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DC Crew
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I'm with Torch Red 2K.....

My uncle's battery kept dying in his Cavalier. He knew it was something in the car draining it.... so he disconnected the battery each night.

Turned out that the light in his trunk was staying on because of a bad pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm going through the circuits one by one. I have 12.4 at the battery. My gut is telling me it's the starter soleinoid switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I did check all the circuits and found no voltage changes. Then I hooked up the battery charger, and an hour later I had 14.6 volts on the battery:surprised That can't be right could it?
 

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Mr. Casino
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biltogo said:
Well, I did check all the circuits and found no voltage changes. Then I hooked up the battery charger, and an hour later I had 14.6 volts on the battery:surprised That can't be right could it?

14+ V at the battery is good, however check the voltage when you try to start it. If it falls off and stays several volts lower you probadly have a battery problem.
 

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DC PIT CREW BOSS
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Drive it to your local, Advance auto, Auto Shack, O'Rielly, etc. They can check the battery under load and most will install free if you need to buy a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I replaced the battery. Now I'll see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I ran into a strange situation. It appears that a cell in the battery was going bad? As I was doing the various voltage checks, the battery somethings would read excellent and other times at 12v and under. I couldn't seem to get any consistancy. Checking the alternator when it was running would always give me a consistant voltage.

So that's why I traded out the battery. Today it started a-ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
81 Corvette said:
Best bet would be to trade me Vettes.
yeah sure....:rolleyes:
 
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