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Well I'm running stock exhaust manifolds right now through straight pipes with the borla stingers at the rear. I have 3 months left until I have to get the vehicle emissioned. Its an 85. Now I want to get my hedman longtubes before then, thataway I can run a single high flow cat with the borlas at the rear. Now, if I get the headers w/o air injection set up, will the EMISSION place FAIL me ??? Cuz I think I remember them looking to see if I had the pump there, but dont recall if you need it connected to the headers. Do you guys know if i'll pass or not? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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I believe it comes down to the laws in your area, so perhaps someone closer could clarify.

In Ontario Canada, that would fail the visual inspection portion of the emissions test, therefore not be allowed.

Of course, hear we do not need emissions testing on cars older than 20 years, so my 1986 is exempt!!!

btw, I still run full emissions gear, and will likely keep AIR when I get headers (looking at the hooker 2149's).
 

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I just installed a pair of headman long tube headers on my 1988 corvette. They didn't come with any emissions so I added a bung for my O2 sensor and I drilled a hole and welded my EGR tube into the primary tube and I'll bet you could cut and weld the air tubes on to them if that's the only way to pass the inspection.:thumbsup:
 

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Headers for an 85 TPI Vette.

May I please make a suggestion?
First, make sure that you have an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) on the headers.
if you dont, make sure you reprogram your MEMCAL disabling EGR valve. and check engine codes.
I think these headers are pretty good.
Hedman part # 68447 ( w/ EGr). $365.00
You may have to cutom fabricate the Y pipe connected between the headers and Cats.
The Catylic Convertor I suggest is a DYNOMAX wlk 40313
and WLK 17483 (cat back system)
You will have a good clean system.
you can also do extreme porting on the runners, and plennum and intake.
 

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My headers are headman #68440. They were new and on EBay I paid $74.99 plus shipping. I wanted to keep my EGR system in tact so I bought a hole saw to cut the hole in the primary tube #8 and welded it in. Everything still works as it should. It took longer to grind the header flanges to clear the small bolts that hold the little metal brackets for the spark plug wire separators. And I had to build a bracket to bolt the dip stick tube to since it could not be reattached to the header due to header tube size. I also had to build a new bracket to support the back of my alternator due to header tube interference. I also had to use a spacer on a factory exhaust manifold bolt for the AC compressor bracket that mounts to the cylinder head. I cut the hole for the O2 sensor bung in the top of the header collector and welded it in. The bottom line is it took some time and wasn't easy but it was worth it to me and it didn't cost a lot of money.:thumbsup:
 

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This is sort of off your topic but it goes to show how silly some state test are and how useless too.

I have a friend in MD who's truck failed the sniffer/rollers or what ever they use in MD. He had NO converter on the truck and didn't want one on either.

He was told by a technician buddy to run the hell out of the truck, AFTER he put Red Line SI#1 in the gas and take out the air filter and return to the test center. He did as he was told and went back to the same test center: he passed!

Go figure. :crazy:
 

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You'll def have to check with some folks in your local area, a good mechanic may be able to help you too. Adding a high flow cat will make a big difference, and keeping the AIR hooked up isn't that big of a hassle. And so long as your motor is tuned up well, you should pass a sniffer test with ease.

This is sort of off your topic but it goes to show how silly some state test are and how useless too. He did as he was told and went back to the same test center: he passed!
MD's emissions testing is just for the $14. One of stories I always heard from guys with older trucks was running the tank low and filling with some rubbing alcohol, just enough to drive through the test and get to a gas station afterwards. My experience is they just plug into your car and check for codes, rarely did they test much else. Glad I don't deal with that anymore.

:rolleyes:
 

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My headers are headman #68440. They were new and on EBay I paid $74.99 plus shipping. I wanted to keep my EGR system in tact so I bought a hole saw to cut the hole in the primary tube #8 and welded it in. Everything still works as it should. It took longer to grind the header flanges to clear the small bolts that hold the little metal brackets for the spark plug wire separators. And I had to build a bracket to bolt the dip stick tube to since it could not be reattached to the header due to header tube size. I also had to build a new bracket to support the back of my alternator due to header tube interference. I also had to use a spacer on a factory exhaust manifold bolt for the AC compressor bracket that mounts to the cylinder head. I cut the hole for the O2 sensor bung in the top of the header collector and welded it in. The bottom line is it took some time and wasn't easy but it was worth it to me and it didn't cost a lot of money.:thumbsup:
Well you know it depends on your economic time value.
It would be costly for me to do all this., considering my time value.
But yeah if your home and instead of watching TV or going out anto bars andc clubs, and movies, this is another way of saving money and doing a fabrication job.
Hey Hoopty, good information.
 
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