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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
now heres something you probably don,t want to spend a fortune on, but you better think it thru...if it tips or brakes you could be PERMENANTLY
CRIPPLED

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4420



Ive got several of these in the shop and they support a bbc just fine!
these also work ok

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200305217_200305217


the cheaper (T) design base on the cheaper stands are not NEARLY as stable, you might want to consider welding on a 4 foot section of 2" x 3" box steel and adding two casters to the end of the center leg but by that time youll quickly see buying the better 2000 lb stands less work/bother and reasonably priced :thumbsup:

this design ought to come with a mercury switch and auto dialer for the emergency room as it will tip or flip with almost no effort , an excellent way to be seriously injured, no matter how strong you are your NEVER going to be able to prevent a V8 from falling once its starts falling unexpectedly when your tightening bolts or turning the block, so if you buy something similar to this expect to get hurt its only a matter of time


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32915
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
as a few of you gentelmen know, I recently replaced the small steel wheels on my engine crane with much nicer swivel wheels of about 8" dia.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41563



these are very similar to what I used (6) of on the engine crane, having 6 large dia. CASTERS rather than 4 small casters and two wheels that don,t change direction is a HUGE IMPROVEMENT :thumbsup: in how easily the engine crane moves once an engines suspended from it,

well, it was an obvious improvement so I said to myself why stop there??
I put a set of 4 similar swivel casters on one of the shops engine stands and I just can,t believe it took so long for me to do that or how big of an improvement it was!!
you get so used to having an engine stand thats a TOTAL P.I.T.A. to move around the shop (AND I sellected some of the easier to move stands) that once you do this mod your thinking how obviously stupid it is not to do it to all the engine stands in t6he shop.....so as finances and time allow Ill convert the other 4 engine stands:thumbsup: not quite as good as good sex but its so much better than before I can,t imagine why I didn,t do this 35 years ago:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I HAD TO MOVE A FEW ENGINES AROUND TODAY IN THE SHOP, I can,t begin to tell you guys how much I was pleased with those engine stands Id recently installed the 8" swivel casters on! Ive managed to convert all but one at this point to the 8" swivel caseters from the 2.5" metal rollers that were previously installed from the original manufacturer, and the differance in ease of movement is truely amazing!:thumbsup: If youve ever tried to move a BBC or HEMI on a standard engine stand you know that at 600-800lbs they don,t move easily, and the factory engine stands only have casters on one end and single dirrectional rollers on the other end making them a P.I.T.A. to move in some situations.
I should have done that simply mod YEARS AGO:laughing:
 

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Thanks for the tip!

That T shaped stand looks like a friggen accident waiting to happen!
 

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I HAD TO MOVE A FEW ENGINES AROUND TODAY IN THE SHOP, I can,t begin to tell you guys how much I was pleased with those engine stands
Can I borrow one??? I want to yank my engine and stick in a new one. It could be our new garage ornament...:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the old small casters on those HF engine stands simply unbolt, I used (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts to lock each of the NEW LARGER swivel casters into place then WELDED the flange to the engine stand TOO,and left the (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts in place
REMEMBER I may be UNDER that engine at some point and its best to be really sure the casters can,t come loose
btw youll need to drill out the mount holes just a bit to use the (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts because the holes are neither totally round or big enought and they are off set about 1/16" in un-touched form

the two outer leg casters mount about 1/4" in from the ends the two rear casters were mounted to have the u-bolts stradle and place the flange dirrectly under the junction of the main legs, the diagonal braces and the rear cross brace on both sides, then welded
 
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