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Discussion Starter #1
I felt elation today as I put on the finishing touches on getting the rear back together and everything torqued. I was a bit perplexed on the torque specs though. My AIM says one things and my chassis rebuild book says another, sometimes there was a 20 foot lbs difference. :huh:

Here's the short list of what was done:
new transmission main shaft rear seal
new drivershaft Spicer u-joints
rebuilt differential (3:36) with new cover (broke my other)
new half-shaft Spicer u-joints
new adjustable strut rods
new TRW 355# monoleaf spring
rebuilt trailing arm and Stainless Steel shims
new rotors
new stainless steel parking brakes
new calipers and pads
new KYB shocks.


Anyway, here's to forward progress:


Yes, there's a leak that needs to be fixed on the THM400, haven't looked at it yet but the rear seal is new.






I was a bit pissed off at the shock top mount nut Ecklers sent with their part #27022. According to the chassis rebuild book, I was supposed to torque it to 40#. Well I never got there as the damn thing stripped. So off I went to Home Depot to get a wider, grade 8 nut to replace it.




A big thanks to all who helped me with questions I had during the process. :cheers:
 

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To bad you didnt get to drive it more with the old parts a suspension rebuild makes such a huge difference.
 

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Awesome work. It really looks like you do quality work. I know you will be happy with the results.

I have to do mine in stages. I did the differential, half shafts, strut rods, and shocks this year and will be doing the trailing arms and brakes over the winter for next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome work. It really looks like you do quality work. I know you will be happy with the results.

I have to do mine in stages. I did the differential, half shafts, strut rods, and shocks this year and will be doing the trailing arms and brakes over the winter for next year.
I can take very little credit for the work. I wasn't much more than the grunt who took everything out and put it back in. Paul @ Northside Corvette here in MN did the heavy work of blasting, rebuilding, and coating the pieces. My little sandblaster cabinet can't handle stuff that big. Plus I know nothing about or have the correct tools to rebuild a differential. I could have done the half-shafts myself, but I would have needed to probably buy a press to get the u-joints out. Anything that wasn't rebuilt is new, so it's hard to screw that up.

On the downside, you can see in the first picture that I was a bit angry trying to get things out of the rear with the exhaust on. So I decided in haste to remove it WITHOUT THINKING. So I took my sawzall and cut it off. If I would have stopped and actually thought about how the exhaust is put together (this is my first time with a vette) I could have probably easily unbolted the section at the tranny crossmember and just pulled that back section out and saved myself about $5-$600. Not that it couldn't have used a new exhaust, but that could have easily come later to spread the cost over time. :bang
 

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Looks VERY nice!! Great attention to detail. Did you paint the calipers or clear coat them? Or are they just bare?

I almost at the reassembly stage of the rear end on mine. This was my first one to do also. I should be putting it all back in around Oct 2nd or so...just waiting on the rear end and trailing arms to come back from Tracdogg. I am looking forward to the reassembly process...everything nice and clean....the grunt work part of the project sux...

Yours looks great, let us know how she drives!
 

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Oh and now you have a good excuse for that nice 3" exhaust system with some good flowing muffs that you have been dreaming of...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you paint the calipers or clear coat them? Or are they just bare?
Those are just bare as they came directly from the Advance Auto store.

Just have to get rims blasted and painted, new tires, rag joint replaced, and new master cylinder and lines bled and I'll be able to drive it.

However I'm having bad thoughts enter my mind about my tranny crossmember and whether Bubba's hack on it prior to my owning the car will hold up to any serious driving. It's going to have to be fixed correctly at some point. That hack alone almost made me not buy the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh and now you have a good excuse for that nice 3" exhaust system with some good flowing muffs that you have been dreaming of...:D
That's going to be my next new thread, a new exhaust system. I think 3" may be overkill for my 350/270 as it's either got the 2" or 2-1/2" on it now, haven't checked.

I'm guessing that putting a new exhaust system in isn't all that difficult? My problem is deciding which parts to get, the auto or manual versions, because my car was a manual from factory but Bubba switched it over to auto at some point. Don't know if the holes through the tranny crossmember were different between auto and manual as far as offsets. I'd hate to order something and not have it fit, I just may have to go to a shop and have someone else do it, which means more $ from my pocket and my budget is almost gone.
 

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If you are not planning any serious engine upgrades or swaps, your best bet would likely be to just take it to the best muffler shop you can find locally. Have them build you a 2.5" system with a cross over pipe and some decent mufflers. Get some repro 71 square tips from any vette vendor for $50 and have em welded on. Make sure to add a "break" in the exhaust system so you can drop it out for tranny or rear end maintenance.

You might also look at the Pypes 2.5" mandrel bent system with the Racepro muffs. I bet you would still end up at the exhaust show trying to get a prebuilt system to fit right.

A wrinkle bent, 2.5" system with some cheap turbo mufflers and h pipe should run you about $300-350 or so...
 

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Magnaflow makes some really nice 2.5" systems for C3's that are different from what Corvette Central sells. They have a X-pipe and dual round exhaust tips. All-stainless. The 16841 system that I have is designed for a big-block but you can use it for a small-block by getting some custom pipes fabbed from the manifold/header to the trans crossmember.

:cheers:

Rick B.




 

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Discussion Starter #12
Magnaflow makes some really nice 2.5" systems for C3's that are different from what Corvette Central sells. They have a X-pipe and dual round exhaust tips.
I thought x-pipes were a no-no, that they decrease power? But what do I know, I have zero knowledge in this area, just thought I read that somewhere. :huh: Maybe I'm thinking of H pipe, but wouldn't that be about the same as an X. Thought the 2 dual exhaust was the better way to go. Guess I have more Googling to do.

Jeff
 

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I thought x-pipes were a no-no, that they decrease power? But what do I know, I have zero knowledge in this area, just thought I read that somewhere. :huh: Maybe I'm thinking of H pipe, but wouldn't that be about the same as an X. Thought the 2 dual exhaust was the better way to go. Guess I have more Googling to do.

Jeff
X-pipes and H-pipes help to balance the exhaust flow between cylinder banks. They do change the exhaust sound a bit which some people like and others don't. My exhaust clip isn't truly representative of the classic 350 engine sound since the LS1 has a different firing order.

:cheers:

Rick B.
 

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That rear section is too beautiful to get dirty on the road. I say take the whole thing out and display it. it's a work of art.!:thumbsup:
 

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Those are just bare as they came directly from the Advance Auto store.
Im not sure if the advance auto calipers have any kind of coating on them, but if they dont, they will turn to ugly rust in no time. It takes about 1 hour and a $5 can of caliper paint from autozone to do. You will be happy you did. :thumbsup:

The rear looks great BTW... Nice job
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im not sure if the advance auto calipers have any kind of coating on them, but if they dont, they will turn to ugly rust in no time. It takes about 1 hour and a $5 can of caliper paint from autozone to do. You will be happy you did. :thumbsup:

The rear looks great BTW... Nice job
Is it special high temp paint for calipers or is it just engine paint I'd look for? For $5 I'm all over that to paint them so they don't rust. Looks like Autozone has spray paint, is this roughly what you're talking about: Rust-Oleum/12 oz. flat red high heat paint

I don't have the brake lines filled yet, so this would be the time to do them. I'd just have to take them off.
 

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Is it special high temp paint for calipers or is it just engine paint I'd look for? For $5 I'm all over that to paint them so they don't rust. Looks like Autozone has spray paint, is this roughly what you're talking about: Rust-Oleum/12 oz. flat red high heat paint

I don't have the brake lines filled yet, so this would be the time to do them. I'd just have to take them off.
I used the duplicolor caliper paint. I dont see why you couldnt use any other kind of high temp paint. Maybe some kind of resistance to brake dust or brake fluid?
 
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