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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what's a typical shim pack up front? I've only got 1/8" in each of the four locations and there's still quite a bit of camber. Seems like a lot of cars I see have lots of shims in there. What else would throw my camber out of whack?
 

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what "camber" do you have? pos or neg? If it's neg, it's typical frame sag. If you have too much you'll need offset cross shafts.
 

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what "camber" do you have? pos or neg? If it's neg, it's typical frame sag. If you have too much you'll need offset cross shafts.
Surely, but why not just put some support in there with the cross support being really tight, force the thing back again??

:surprised :crazy: :WTF :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oh yeah, probably should have specified that it's negative camber. I just put a spreader bar in there this summer. Sounds like that's a little late.

recommendations on where to get offset cross shafts?
 

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oh yeah, probably should have specified that it's negative camber. I just put a spreader bar in there this summer. Sounds like that's a little late.

recommendations on where to get offset cross shafts?
VBandP makes off set shafts. Check out my spreader bar part2 thread to see.
They are meant to eliminate shims. I do not believe you can install them backwards without clearance issues.
Maybe pre-loading your spreader bar more is the answer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
VBandP makes off set shafts... I do not believe you can install them backwards without clearance issues.
Maybe pre-loading your spreader bar more is the answer?
I saw another thread where someone had A-arms rubbing the frame because offset shafts were on backwards. I'll call VB&P and see what they have to say.

Seems like I'm having the opposite problem that most people do... I need more shims where others want less. What do they mean by the crossmember "sagging"? Where's the sag occuring?

I wouldn't want to do too much camber adjustment with the spreader bar, but that might be one of very few options!
 

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I saw another thread where someone had A-arms rubbing the frame because offset shafts were on backwards. I'll call VB&P and see what they have to say.

Seems like I'm having the opposite problem that most people do... I need more shims where others want less. What do they mean by the crossmember "sagging"? Where's the sag occuring?

I wouldn't want to do too much camber adjustment with the spreader bar, but that might be one of very few options!
I am no expert on this, but when you look at the frame from the front, from shock tower down under the engine, and back up, it is shaped like a "c". I believe this "c" opens up after time. Correct TT?
 

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I saw another thread where someone had A-arms rubbing the frame because offset shafts were on backwards. I'll call VB&P and see what they have to say.

Seems like I'm having the opposite problem that most people do... I need more shims where others want less. What do they mean by the crossmember "sagging"? Where's the sag occuring?

I wouldn't want to do too much camber adjustment with the spreader bar, but that might be one of very few options!
Here is a picture of an offset cross shaft (from the company you mentioned). You can see how the shaft is offset from the A-arm pivot:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here is a picture of an offset cross shaft (from the company you mentioned). You can see how the shaft is offset from the A-arm pivot:

yeah, the offset shafts make sense to me, but it seems that most guys (including the one in the picture) are offsetting the arm's pivot point inward toward the centerline of car, where as I need to offset mine outward toward the wheel.

Seems I might have the opposite issue that big2bird is describing. My "C" he's referring to is closing in.
 

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Seems like I'm having the opposite problem that most people do... I need more shims where others want less. What do they mean by the crossmember "sagging"? Where's the sag occuring?


yeah, the offset shafts make sense to me, but it seems that most guys (including the one in the picture) are offsetting the arm's pivot point inward toward the centerline of car, where as I need to offset mine outward toward the wheel.
You said you needed more shims in the previous post. That will move the "arm's pivot point inward toward the centerline of car" but then stated that you want the opposite. I guess I'm confused.

Jason, Can you clarify whether it is OK to mention non-supporting vendors at DC?

Edit: Guess this is a question that can't be answered:laughing: So here goes, the VB&P are a little expensive, you can get Moog forged offset shafts fo a lot less (Moog P/N K6104).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You said you needed more shims in the previous post. That will move the "arm's pivot point inward toward the centerline of car" but then stated that you want the opposite. I guess I'm confused.

Jason, Can you clarify whether it is OK to mention non-supporting vendors at DC?

Edit: Guess this is a question that can't be answered:laughing: So here goes, the VB&P are a little expensive, you can get Moog forged offset shafts fo a lot less (Moog P/N K6104).
sorry I've been a little unclear. Lemme try to paint a better picture...

Right now I only have 1/8" of shims in each location, but I still have visible negative camber. To get the camber I want, I need to move the pivot point outward, away from the centerline of the car. What I'm affraid of is that even without any shims (with the pivot point out as far as it'll go) I'll still have too much negative camber. When I said "I need more shims" I meant I need to alter the geometry so that I can use more shims to set the alignment.

Other guys don't like the fact that they have 7/8" of shims, so they get the offset cross shafts to achieve the same camber with fewer shims.

Did that help at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jason, Can you clarify whether it is OK to mention non-supporting vendors at DC?
From the Site Help & Guidelines section:

Linking to Corvette related businesses

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To eliminate the growing problem of "freeloading", and out of fairness to our paying sponsors, please don't post links to a "Corvette related" company's website unless that business is a supporting vendor of DigitalCorvettes.com.

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I realize that's a little cryptic and you're just trying to help other guys save some $$, but hopefully it helps a little.
 

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oh yeah, probably should have specified that it's negative camber. I just put a spreader bar in there this summer. Sounds like that's a little late.

recommendations on where to get offset cross shafts?
I am pretty sure they are still available from MOOG...K6104
redvetracr
 

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I saw another thread where someone had A-arms rubbing the frame because offset shafts were on backwards. I'll call VB&P and see what they have to say.



That may have been me. Actually, you're supposed to orientate the cross-shafts to suit your car. I ended up going back to the "backwards" (as shown in the pic) installation for negative camber because that's what worked w/my front end. I removed the shims so no more rubbing. Calling VB&P is a good idea. They squared me away.
 

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From the Site Help & Guidelines section:

Linking to Corvette related businesses

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

We kindly ask for your assistance.

Hi folks,

To eliminate the growing problem of "freeloading", and out of fairness to our paying sponsors, please don't post links to a "Corvette related" company's website unless that business is a supporting vendor of DigitalCorvettes.com.

So, if they aren't on the left vendor list, the URL could be removed by a site moderator. We hope you understand that we have large expenses too, and just like magazines, you have to pay to promote your business.

To become a supporting vendor, you can e-mail [email protected] .

Thanks,
Patrick


I realize that's a little cryptic and you're just trying to help other guys save some $$, but hopefully it helps a little.
Oops. Sorry I was a little late on this.
 

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I am no expert on this, but when you look at the frame from the front, from shock tower down under the engine, and back up, it is shaped like a "c". I believe this "c" opens up after time. Correct TT?
The c collapses, the 2 upper susp. towers bend inward. You can simply force them back by preloading the spreader bar. If you do this on an alignment rack you will see the numbers change.
 

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The c collapses, the 2 upper susp. towers bend inward. You can simply force them back by preloading the spreader bar. If you do this on an alignment rack you will see the numbers change.
Yeah, that. I am quite sure I meant to say that, yet I did not, but I should have, so you see, I was meant to be right all along.:laughing:
 

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Yeah, that. I am quite sure I meant to say that, yet I did not, but I should have, so you see, I was meant to be right all along.:laughing:
Bird, Others are obviously out to get you by "spinning" your statements so that they appear to be incorrect although I can see that you were obviously thinking the right thing but your hands accidentally typed what you were NOT thinking so I agree, you were right. I'd keep an eye on that TT feller!
 
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