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Discussion Starter #1
I am struggling with the 79 and almost redlined against her. Please inform what is her problem. Is it the front bushings or what the hell is wrong with her? The tires mabey. The road. The 17's I bought with the new tires kinda made it get back to normal. I am running the old tires and rims on there again and a 255 rear (soft compound tire) and front Goodyear eagles 225. Do any of you have this problem running larger rear tires or is it just me? I had all four skinny tires on her a few years ago and she had absolutely no issues. Is it a hard job to change the front bushings and which way to go, the rubber or the plastic ones? :huh:
 

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when you say drift...what are you describing? the steering gets light and darty? or the car wonders ..following the ruts in the road??

Nick
 

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Have the alignment checked.

:thumbsup:
:agree:

The C3's get VERY twitchy if they do not have a good 4 wheel alignment. It is getting harder and harder to find someone who can do a good job on all four corners!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It wants to go left and right instead of staying straight. I was told the rear stabilizer bushings were bad.....:huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is the real peeve! Rjent, the thing drives great with the new 17" but I took em off to do some body work and finish the dynamat and paint the inner doors. Do not want overspray on THEM. No high heels in my head for doing such a stupid thing. La roads are like SUCK! And I mean they really SUCK! I lived in California (where roads are GOOD ROADS). Where I live, it is like they do not know aggregate at all. You would think they are paving a backroad somewhere. And this is a historic trail in front of my home. Many 18 wheels are prevalent and there are grooves in the road where they stop and start. Think they need to rethink Compaction test. It just pizzes me off. My father made me sell that 71 (Bad Boy) because of the roads back then and they have not changed one bit. You are probably right about finding someone who will work on one. Might have to buy my own camber machine and do it myself. I was gonna buy another C3 but thinkin more on the C5 now. Wish me luck.
 

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...Might have to buy my own camber machine and do it myself....
My advice is not to attempt a self-alignment. You can get it close enough for a drive to the alignment shop, but I would leave the fine tuning to the pros. Any good alignment shop should be able to set a Corvette. If that fails, your Chevrolet garage could do it.

:thumbsup:
 

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My advice is not to attempt a self-alignment. You can get it close enough for a drive to the alignment shop, but I would leave the fine tuning to the pros. Any good alignment shop should be able to set a Corvette. If that fails, your Chevrolet garage could do it.

:thumbsup:
Mike, I could not disagree more with your above statement, I have plumbed up my own garage, did my own 4 wheel alignment, and have gotten really excellent wear and handling from it over the last 4? years or so....

I have '92 vetter rims 17x9.5 on all 4 corners....255/50 up front and 275/50 on rear.....I find the more modern tires accentuated the rut following on crappy roads....they are lower profile, more square shouldered, and being radial too boot, react totally differantly....

MY car was in total new shape from bottom up, every moving part of that entire suspension was new enough with less than 30k on it when I put that rack/pinion on it.....world of differance....forget the old tech steering, install a rack, and then Hydroboost for the two main chassis complaints in the whole C3 car series....gotta ASSUME somehow all the rest of the parts/suspension is good/clean/functionally normal....that means from diff output yokes through struts, to t-arm bushings, to all everybody in the front....don't miss one....and still that controll valve is the limiting factor with stock power steering....makes correcting on rutted out highways a PIA....fought it for years now on various cars....I"m age 63, been hotrodding for decades now...make that 4 of them...+, IMO....go rack and don't look back....
 

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well you can fiddle w/ a caster camber gauge and some turning plates to set the toe and what not but i have found it's so much easier to go to a proper shop w/ a laser & levelled system and do it there, either DIY or provide them w/ the settings and watch them do it so they set it properly (and not set it so that car tracks straight but everything is off to one side...have seen that being done) i recently did this for a buddy, using a local sho's equipment (they were nice enough to let me do it there) and I aligned it about as perfect as it can get with the shim method. The whole car is just so much nicer to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, it seems obvious that all the replies are indicating the real culprit. And that seems to be alignment. Thanks for all the replies. Good advice from all of you. If I cannot find a good alignment shop then I will have to try something else. Are those darn shims between the frame and the upper A-arm? If they are I think I found some on the floor under the car this morning and could not figure where they came from.....Geeeeeezzzzzz Makes me wanna stop the dynamat job. Darnnnnnn.......:thud:
 

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Well, it seems obvious that all the replies are indicating the real culprit. And that seems to be alignment. Thanks for all the replies. Good advice from all of you. If I cannot find a good alignment shop then I will have to try something else. Are those darn shims between the frame and the upper A-arm? If they are I think I found some on the floor under the car this morning and could not figure where they came from.....Geeeeeezzzzzz Makes me wanna stop the dynamat job. Darnnnnnn.......:thud:

OH MAN....you drop some shime, you should hear clunking upon braking the all sorts of handling problems....been a few years, BUT I took to using RTV to glue my shim pack into postion, so IF the bolt works loose they/it just need tightening...case closed....

sure it looks sloppy,...it works, damnit...

FWIW I torque the hell outta those shims/bolts...now that I have the VBP strut in place....it's fine, double nutted like a squirrel....and so no sweat...

ALL GM cars of the ear are famous for that problem....B Body, A Body, VETTE, F body...U got shims, they fall out.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The damned nuts are loose on there. No wander it was driftin and makin the nose hunt. Geeez.........Gonna just tighten them up as tight as I can for now. I have some locktite and just might douche' it that. You guys are great man. I just could not figure Y she was getting squirrely on me. Now I know. Thanks everyone. :thud:
 

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The damned nuts are loose on there. No wander it was driftin and makin the nose hunt. Geeez.........Gonna just tighten them up as tight as I can for now. I have some locktite and just might douche' it that. You guys are great man. I just could not figure Y she was getting squirrely on me. Now I know. Thanks everyone. :thud:

JUst make damn sure you got all your little shims bach in whre they supposed to be, and I would use lock tite on those nuts....

they are interfearance nuts, but after a while some nutz just wear out....

;-)))
 

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Mike, I could not disagree more with your above statement, I have plumbed up my own garage, did my own 4 wheel alignment, and have gotten really excellent wear and handling from it over the last 4? years or so....
In your case, things appear to have worked out fine. I stand by my post. For the average Corvette driver, alignment is best left to the pros.

:thumbsup:
 
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