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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. Sorry if this is a beaten topic. Under the hood I see the two metal fuel lines. One line goes to the fuel pump. One line is capped off with a short piece of hose, a bolt, and a clamp. What is this line supposed to go to? Is this another bubba job by the PO? Here is part 2 of my question. From my fuel pump I have a piece of metal line that is bent upwards and then goes to rubber line which travels all the way up to the manifold, clamps to a fuel filter, then more rubber line to carb
I really don't feel comfortable with this. The engine is not the original, but it is a 350. I have seen metal lines for the pump to carb for sale but they don't seem to go all the way to the carb from what the pics show. I also thought about fittings for the pump and carb along with Teflon(PTFE) lines. Do I talk to Summit? Jegs? I just want a reliable fireproof setup. Any ideas and opinions are greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
If Teflon is overkill, just a high quality braided setup you could recommend as far as brand, etc. Don't want to use cheap fleamarket stuff.
 

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On long term project cars that are going to see changes to the carburetor and intake manifold as they evolve, I like to use braided hose and AN fittings along with a quality screen filter in an aluminum housing. You end up with a modular fuel line that's easy to reconfigure.

On cars that are going to live with the same parts for many years, I bend a 3/8 steel line and save about $60.

Most people that have trouble bending lines are planning as they bend. It's easier when you know where the line is going to go, and make yourself a wire template to work from. A gently radiused U bend on either end will end up looking factory and take up excess line from using pre-flared sections. Steel 3/8 line can be a pita to flare if you've got to cut it.
 

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Anything other than steel or stainless steel tubing on the pressure side of the fuel pump is a fire waiting to happen. Even the big buck braided hoses are subject to leaking. THe problem with the braided hoses is that the leak can be inches away from where it's dripping.

Bending and flaring is not that big of a deal- it DOES take some practice, some wasted tubing, but the end result is going to last a long time.

Probably the worst bend on a SBC (or BB) is the one from the fuel pump. To get it tight enough that it clears the radiator hose the radius is small enough you can't easily flare it.

You also need to watch what fittings = you can't mix an inverted flare and an AN in the same place- (inverted flare tube and an AN coupling). Inverted flares require a different flare tool than AN, the inverted flare is called a "double flare". Again, not tough to make, just takes some practice.

I understand Slow&Leaky's ideas about evolution of a project. I've got a half dozen fuel lines I've bent and flared for different carb/manifold combinations.

If you're in a place that a braided line has to be the choice, AEROQUIP is as good as they get. But make sure the material it's made from is correct and compatible with what you're planning on using it for.
 

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BTW if you have a Qjet be sure to factor in the air cleaner. You wouldn't be the first to bend a beautiful line then realize it doesn't drop enough to clear the air filter.

The inlet on a Qjet is high and horizontal, most holleys and carters will involve some kind of purchased feed/adapter line that will handle those first bends for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks fellas for your help. Who do I get 3/8 steel tubing from?I guess I would need tubing, a flaring tool, and fittings as well. Would they come from the same supplier? I just had a thought. To make things easier for me could I buy a pre-bent pump to carb line such as one from a Corvette vender and connect a filter then go to the carb with more steel?the carb says Edelbrock. It also says Weber. I guess I'd have to screw an appropriate fitting to the carb to accept the steel? There should be a filter that connects to steel fittings correct? Once again your help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Steel double flare lines are sold at all parts stores in a variety of lenghts.

It's hard for a non-professional to find a double flare kit that will do 3/8 line, brake lines are no problem with cheap flare kits but the larger lines require a lot of grip force from the jaws and it tends to just push 3/8 line instead of flare. I've tried a variety of sears type brands without luck and ended my search at the snap-on truck. It works beautifully.

But honestly, after all the lines I've made....still try to buy a line the correct length and work with the flares it comes with. Cuts time in half.

If you want to simplify line construction put a metal fuel filter in the middle of the line that accepts double flare on both ends. 2 short lines are much easier to make if you're new to bending, cause if you mess up there's only half the line to throw away!

Here's a tip if you use pre-flared line....first thing first tape the fittings to the ends so they don't get trapped on the wrong side of a bend. :down:

Look in the carter or edelbrock catalog, your carb should've come with the correct fitting but you may be able to buy something you like better. When running aftermarket carbs I like to buy the adapter line because they usually have a small port that accepts an underhood fuel pressure gauge. Handy troubleshooting tool and a little bit of hipo bling.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the advice. I will probably order a pre-made pump to carb corvette line from one of the vendors and go from there. Hopefully it will get me close to where I need to be and then I will probably need help again. I am gonna try to figure out the picture posting thing so I can share pics and show what I have for future questions. One last thing. That question about one of my lines being capped off. Is that maybe the return line and is it supposed to be as I described in my original post? Is something missing that this line is supposed to go to?
 

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Is that line down by the fuel pump, mounted on the frame? The 77 I have has the 3/8 feed line and a 1/4 return line right next to it on the frame. I'd guess someone changed your pump and just capped the return line.
Two schools of thought on the return line. It helps circulate fuel and helps prevent fuel from boiling in the lines when it's really hot. The other side, if everything is correct, it's not really needed.

The early C3's with the HP engines didn't get the return line from the factory and didn't have any more problems than anyone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes Tim you are exactly correct! That's the line I'm talking about. It's weird because I don't even see anywhere on the fuel pump that this line could have been connected. Thanks for the explanation. There is so much to learn, and trust me I have come a long way thanks to all of you. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok Just to finalize. I went to the auto parts store. They have steel lines in various lengths with fittings on them. Will these be ok? I found a metal line bender at Lowe's that will bend up to 3/8" line. Think this will be good? I am assuming these fittings are the norm on what would be on the fuel pump and the carb?
 

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The fittings on that line are 3/8 inverted flare, that's correct for the fuel pump, and also for the carb if the factory installed fittings are there.

THe inverted flare is a double flare at 45*. Two steps to make the flare.
That bender from Lowe's - does it have 2 handles , one that moves and the other attached to a drum the tube bends around? Same one I have- it works fairly well- if the tube collapses on you, stuff a piece of cotton rope thru the tube before you bend it. It does take some practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks man. Yes that bender does have 2 handles on it. I'll probably buy an extra piece just to practice with.
 
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