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Discussion Starter #1
OK the car has a electric fuel pump and a old school fuel pressure Reg. I don't know why it was changed, but if I remember right this kind is not very accurate (see pic) What other choices do I have....and doesn't it have to have a return line to the fuel tank???

 

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NO, it's fine as shown, no return line, can''t verify pressure accuracy, but 20 years or so ago, that cured a Carter electric pump from flooding my Qj, Carter pumps run 6-8? lbs and the Qjs take only 4?? something like that....

ran for years with it on my '73 Grandville 455 convertible, or maybe just that the 455 ran the gas out so fast the floats never closed....dunno which, but it was a

HELL OF A RIDE!!!!:rolling: :rolling: :rolling:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, thanks ... I know some of the old school stuff is good, but always good to check. :thumbsup: it's set for 4 1/2 right now and it's running out of fuel in the upper RPM's and falling on it's face. I'm going to take out the filter in the carb and put a inline one on. In the middle of tune-up right now (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) Then looking for vac leaks
 

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Cool, thanks ... I know some of the old school stuff is good, but always good to check. :thumbsup: it's set for 4 1/2 right now and it's running out of fuel in the upper RPM's and falling on it's face. I'm going to take out the filter in the carb and put a inline one on. In the middle of tune-up right now (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) Then looking for vac leaks

Shocker of shockers, U B amazed just how late those vacuum flappers on the secondaries need open to prevent bogging, you need mess with the top flap on the secondaries, there is a tiney spring under the pass side shaft extension...and i'ts around the flapper pivot shaft, there is a set screw on the end , and it's held in position by a tiney little set/jamb screw under there...as I recall it's a hex/allen screw...loosen it while hold the shaft screw, and tighten the spring tension....some engines/rebuilders set that thing much looser than necessary, the air top air valve opens, dumps fuel with no velocity, engine dies at what I/we would think is upper rpms'....

try it, just don't tighten it too much or it binds the spring too tight and the flapper will either break the spring, jump it off the perches on the tabs, or not open all the way.....

it's a tricky little overlooked bastard trick a carb tuner told me about years ago...I never knew it was there.....:crazy: :rolling: :lookinup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep know about the screw on the secs, I've been playing with Q-jets for the last 8 years on the 83 buick (carbedhotairslug) I have doug Roe's book on Q-jets (a great book for any one playinf with them) Spring feels like it's set to about 2-3 turns, not to soft and snaps back into place. From the 3 plugs I pulled so far they are showing a lean condintion (white).

OK new question..

passenger side plug wires, #4 & 2 are routed thru the motor mount. Can't get them out with on either removing the mount or cutting the wires. is this the way the factory did it :huh:
 

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Yep know about the screw on the secs, I've been playing with Q-jets for the last 8 years on the 83 buick (carbedhotairslug) I have doug Roe's book on Q-jets (a great book for any one playinf with them) Spring feels like it's set to about 2-3 turns, not to soft and snaps back into place. From the 3 plugs I pulled so far they are showing a lean condintion (white).

OK new question..

passenger side plug wires, #4 & 2 are routed thru the motor mount. Can't get them out with on either removing the mount or cutting the wires. is this the way the factory did it :huh:
Good, cool,
but about those wires, I like mine up and over, that under the grease pit crap is just that....PIA to deal with....

gotta watch those plug wires on headers too....don't ask.....:spanked:
 
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