[speeddaddy]

I know for alot of you guys this is like kindergarten, but this will be my first spark plug change. Motor is your basic 350 with a mild cam. I am assuming this from the sound due to no previous owner history. What plugs do you like and part number If handy. What gap to set? Any tricks or shortcuts to make things easier? Thanks in advance. Hope this helps somebody other than me.

 

[D_B]

I love NGK plugs.

I call the NGK tech line.

They'll ask you about your engine, specs, transmission, planned usage, and a few other fun things.

Using that info, they'll tell you which of their plugs best suits your application.

They'll give you a part number, and you can then take that to a parts store and buy the plugs.

 

[speeddaddy]

Great D_B. Thanks so much.

 

[D_B]

Great D_B. Thanks so much.

You're very welcome. :thumbsup:

 

[raidmagic]

Also take the old plugs out before you put the new ones in.

 

[GS81vett]

I have been using the E-3 plugs and love them. You can hear and feel the difference in power and response.

 

[speeddaddy]

Stupid question. Do I disconnect the battery? I don't think the wires are hot unless distributor is turning right:crazy:

 

[speeddaddy]

Don't laugh raidmagic:laughing:On a given day between a 12yo, 13yo, and a 1yo I have been known to do some crazy stuff :crazy:

 

[GS81vett]

You dont have to or at least I never have but you can never be too safe.

 

[Fred Mann]

Stupid question. Do I disconnect the battery? I don't think the wires are hot unless distributor is turning right:crazy:

Having a battery blow up in your face because you didn't ask a question is stupid. Asking the question isn't. You don't need to disconnect the battery to change plugs.

For future reference, if you are working on something that requires the battery to be disconnected, it is best to disconnect the battery ground cable at the frame. The connection to the frame is under the battery box and access is from under the car. You better off leaving the connections on the battery post alone and just working with the connection to the frame. No soft lead lugs, no corrosion and no chance of loosening up a post on the battery that way.

BTW, I'm an NGK fan too.

 

[speeddaddy]

Thanks for the input guys. I really want to start doing more of my own work so I figured this was a good place to start. All of a sudden my car has developed what I feel is a slight miss when idleing. Can't hurt to start with plugs I guess. May change wires while I'm at it. Many thanks again for your time.

 

[HardcoreABN]

most important thing- dont break the plug off in the head

 

[speeddaddy]

Oh man, that would require some foul language of which I will not disclose on this forum :laughing:

 

[HardcoreABN]

Oh man, that would require some foul language of which I will not disclose on this forum :laughing:

a friend of mine's f-150 has been running like poo lately, so he brought it over for me to look at it. start with the basics, fuel filter (had never been changed) and the plugs given it was throwing a misfire code....

went to change the plugs and the first one i started on just was not going to come out and told him that it would break if i pulled it out. we decided to wait till we had more time....well he decided to do it himself, an hour away from me. and sure as hell, the metal sheath that covers the electrode (retarded forde design) stayed in the head :rolling: now he gets to drive it an hour to my house so i can pull the head and fix it :smack

 

[iburke]

REMEMBER>>> Spark Plugs Get Torqued Just like and other bolt. And don't let any one tell you other wise...:thumbsup:

 

[HardcoreABN]

and a lil anti-sieze is never a bad thing

 

[speeddaddy]

Thanks iburke. I was reading up on the NGK website and came across that fact. Good point. Much appreciated.