exception to rule #2, some cheap junk just won't work, no matter how hard you try. See, he wants a spring combo that is uncommon, and uncommonhard to come by stuff is expensive. How can he make a cheaper spring perform the same way? glueing 2 together maybe?
who cares if you measure the rate? You tune until you get the car handling the way you want. Make small changes then test the car on a track.That would be doable yes but there's no sure telling where to drill and what the rate would be. Anotehr thing is, this offset mounting way distort the flimsy stock trailing arm.
do some welding on the trailing arms adding bolt mounts 2-3" inner. Then cut the fiberglass spring. The rate goes way up when you shorten it.
just an idea.
I'm not saying you are wrong but shortening a spring a few inches does not change the moment or the section modulus of the spring. Not sure I follow how your rate would go way up.
I was not aware that you were talking about a spring of non-uniform cross section.You don't understand how shortening a section of anything makes the strength go up be it a steel beam, pencil or anything? Get out your statics book.
I was not aware that you were talking about a spring of non-uniform cross section.
As for understanding how beams deflect, I have a very good understanding of that and stand by my statement that shortening a beam does not make the stiffness go "way up" as you describe. The moment does not change (in this case track width), the load does not change, the section modulus does not change. The only thing that changes is the deflection. If you were to measure the beam deflection at 2 inches in from the current spring mounting hole, I believe the difference would be negligible.
How do you know? Have you tested the parts on your car yetrule #1, the good stuff costs $$$$
I am not arguing with you at all. I have not referred you to a textbook, questioned your understanding of the relative strength of pencils etc. etc. I have merely questioned your logic, without sarcasm.The moment DOES change because the spring is shorter after being cut. Have you seen a TRW spring?. If you have you wouldn't be arguing with me. I also have the VBP fiberglass spring and that one is also much thicker at the middle and tapers towards the ends, so cutting off a inch or 2 will make a big difference on that one as well.
Raise and lower the car and watch which part of the spring deflects.
I'm giving him a way to lower the car with his existing spring, so it is very pertinent to his question.This is my last post on this subject. If you would like to debate this further either email me or start a new topic. I doubt if the original poster is interested as he begaan this one looking for a spring that was flat when it was installed.