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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking seriously about going to a Griffin 31"X19" alum radiator rather than boil out/clean my 14 year old brass 4-core. I'm not running AC, have a manual and am running a flex fan currently. I blocked off my heater due to interior heat and started having some boil over issues with this radiator just before I started working on it for the new motor. However, it hadn't been cleaned for 14 years and had lots of down time as well.

I think these Griffin radiators come in 1" and 1.25" cooling tubes and cost about $160 and $260 respectively. This is for a 550-600 hp 427 sb, alum heads, intake motor that will have some street and strip driving. I'm just thinking for an extra $75-$100, I could get the 1" tube radiator over the cost of cleaning my old one.

Also, would I need the shroud for this radiator? I really hate the shroud, it's a PITA.

Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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I have Griffin radiators in both - my race '68 and my street '68 Vert... Love those radiators... Great cooling and durability!! In combination with a Pro Comp high volume aluminum water pump and a auxiliary electric fan, my yellow '68 never gets above 190 degrees, even on the hottest summer day in stop and go traffic!!
 

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Ditch the engine driven fan and get a set of dual electric fans. No shroud and it will clean up the engine compartment a lot. You would need a shroud with the engine driven fan. I have a Dewitts with dual fans and it never gets to hot. Looks a lot cleaner in the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What kind of CFM should I look for in an electric fan? Also, push or pull?

There is a 16" single JEGS fan that does push or pull 2200 CFM for $95, in my price range, is that enough?

Also, should I go for the $160 or $260 Griffin radiator (1" or 1.25" tubes)? How much difference on cooling will this make?
 

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What kind of CFM should I look for in an electric fan? Also, push or pull?

There is a 16" single JEGS fan that does push or pull 2200 CFM for $95, in my price range, is that enough?

Also, should I go for the $160 or $260 Griffin radiator (1" or 1.25" tubes)? How much difference on cooling will this make?
If you don't have over 550 HP, go with the $160 radiator.. Rather spend the extra $100 on a good electric fan.. There used to be a 4400 dual fan setup on Ebay for $130 or so but I think they sold all of them...
 

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I see you spent $150 on the fancy chrome radiator hoses. I would have taken that money and bought the radiator with 1.25" tubes.
No you wouldn't, you would have taken the money and spent it on driving time and put more miles on your vette:laughing:

I just put the 1.25 in also, ducting from the grill.
 

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good point. 400,000mi/13mi/gal = 30,769 gallons at what a $1.20 average =$36,923

holy crap.
RULE NUMBER 1: Never look at how much gas you use other than the next tank.

Rule Number 2: Never calculate how much you spend on Gas

Rule Number 3: IF you've got an overwhelming desire to use your calculator, go balance you checkbook. There's way too much stress involved in figuring anything else. IF you've just GOT to calculate something, try working out a yearly budget for something useful. Like how many 12 ounce cans of BEER are required to rebuild a SBC. Add 10% for a BBC..

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK thanks guys. Got the old one boiled out today for $69. Going to use it and see. Probably will upgrade to a Griffin and a 16" fan in the near future it looks like.
 

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I see you spent $150 on the fancy chrome radiator hoses. I would have taken that money and bought the radiator with 1.25" tubes.
two things:

1) it's stated later in the thread that the "fancy chrome" hoses were my only viable option since the necks on the rad were in different spots and the other hoses I tried didn't clear the alt bracket.

lsejlowe said:
redvetracr -
I wasn't planning on using the flexsteel hoses at first, but really they were my best option. The old hoses wouldn't fit because the necks on the radiator were in different locations, and the other flexible hoses I tried didn't hold up well enough to clear all the brackets. However, now that I've shelled out the $$, I like the flexsteel hoses. Supposedly they dissipate more heat as well, but that wasn't a motivating factor for me.
2) I've only seen my temp gauge over 180 one time... When my old copper core rad blew it's left seam. I knew the aluminum rad would cool even more efficiently, so there was no reason to spend extra on a beefier radiator.
 

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2) I've only seen my temp gauge over 180 one time... When my old copper core rad blew it's left seam. I knew the aluminum rad would cool even more efficiently, so there was no reason to spend extra on a beefier radiator.
Let me drive it. I'll heat if up for you.:devil:

My opinion is you can't have too much cooling on a C3.
 

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I purchased an aluminum radiator and dual HP SPAL fan setup from Entropy corp on ebay. It cost about $600 total, took about 10 days to arrive, I have a 355 horse ZZ4 with air, and the temp gage never climbs above 190 even sitting still in the hot sun with the air running.

Cheers

Richard
 

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Make sure you leave the spring in the lower radiator hose. I think mine is collapsing. I'm gonna switch to the stiff silicon hose.
 

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Let me drive it. I'll heat if up for you.:devil:

My opinion is you can't have too much cooling on a C3.
:laughing: believe, me I'm not exactly gentle :partyon:

drove 4 hours from Kansas City to Lincoln in 98 degree heat last weekend and stayed perfectly cool. Wish I could say the same for my back and ass sittin on black leather seats with no AC :laughing:
 
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