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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

This post is directed at grumpyvette:
I have been reading alot of your post and you know you stuff, so i got a question for you.

With a Stock 88 What is needed to stroke it to 383 or 396 (im not sure which one im going to pick dont know which one is better maybe u can help me with that one too)

Im looking to run close to 450rwhp maybe 500.

i just wanna know everything that is needed to do.

Thankyou

P.s if you cant help me can you direct me to someone or somewhere that can! thanks :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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8,480 Posts
keep in mind ENGINES ARE A SYSTEM all PARTS must match as to AIRFLOW,RPM LEVELS and GEARING, STRESS LEVELS, and intended use,think of the concept of (a chain is only as strong as its weakest link)
the best intake, heads,cam, or exhaust won,t work to there full potential if the other parts don,t match correctly!


a 350 has a 3.48" stroke, a 383 has a 3.75" stroke , the 396 , has a 3.875" stroke but tends to cost more than the slight additional power is worth , you might as well build a 401 if you are going to that trouble (check the AFR article) because of the additional part costs and clearances needed in machineing the block. you won,t get 450-500 rwhp without nitrous or a supercharger, that would require about 535hp-600hp at the flywheel. yes, I know everyone has a BUDDY that HAS a FRIEND, who KNOWS a GUY that has 500rwhp,from a 383, (unless your willing to spend over about $7000 MINIMUM , don,t reasonably expect that hp level without nitrous IN AN ENGINE THAT WILL LIVE VERY LONG,

DO YOURSELF A BIG FAVOR
buy these FIVE books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy.
HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB
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HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
.
JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD

SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

THE DISPLACEMENT,CYLINDERHEAD FLOW and cam timing and compression ratio are the major factors in how well the basic combo will work, of these watch the compression ratio matches the cam timing, the larger the displacement the better and cylinderheads are one of the most important parts in the whole combo!
heres some info you can use

http://phil.tobin.net/Hoover/index.html (lt1)

http://www.gmmodernmuscle.com/383/383build.html

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.htm

http://www.grapeaperacing.com/Grape...isplacement.cfm

http://www.speedomotive.com/building tips.htm

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm

http://www.bracketmasters.com/small...oker_383_cu.htm

http://www.geocities.com/jgkov/L98Mods.html

http://www.ws6.com/mycar.htm

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html


http://www.airflowresearch.com (articles)(401-Inch Chevy Stroker)

youll need a STEALTH RAM, port work, a roller cam like the CRANE #119841

http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/...B1=Display+Card
a laptop controllable ECU like the HOLLEY 950 ECU, and 36 lb injectors

build the basic engine in the AFR article, use the crane cam above (it matches the flow characteristic of the stealth ram more closely and will work better with EFI)
use the AFR 190cc heads (fits the stealth ram ports better and builds tq faster yet the flow figures are almost identical to the 195cc heads)
boost the compression to 11:1 for increased tq,(the cams duration will bleed off enought low rpm compression to keep you out of detonation) use a 3200 rpm stall converter and 4.11 rear gears
add a 175 hp nitrouse kit behind the throttle body and if you can drive, you add slicks and suspendsion work and you can tune an EFI motor , high 10 second 1/4 mile e.t.s will be available

buy the books, read the info BEFORE SPENDING MONEY, and keep in mind that those engines David Visard builds are ported by an expert and your highly unlikely to get those results, use PORTED 190cc AFR heads, even D.Visard would tell you they flow better

heres a custom stealth ram in a c-4 corvette
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thankyou so much, i would build the 401 but insurance and all that will be to high, so best bet is to go for the 383 (i plan on installing a d-1 supercharge later on)
 

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QUESTION,
YOU SAID, " but insurance and all that will be to high"

since ALL SBC engines (350/401/383/396) will look IDENTICAL and use the same HEADs and BLOCK. and theres no way to tell the differance without acctually measureing the bore and stroke, how in $%% can anyone tell them from the orriginal 350 by looking? and how will anyone charge you more for a 401 than a 383 built with the same block?

QUESTION #2
if your SUPERCHARGING the engine the compression ratio will need to be 7:1 not 11:1 and the cam should be a CRANE # 119661, the injectors should be 42lb size, to get the correct results so you best think thru your goals BEFORE building the ENGINE
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will have to tell my insurance what the engine is cuz if there is a smash and the front is damage, the block will only be replace with wat it said on the paper

Sc isnt coming anytime soon, i think it will stay stroke only for along time (maybe 3yrs) so i think i just go with that setup and then it comes time to install sc i will change what needs to be done
 

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Just an observation for your post. If you are looking to get 400+ in the rear are you planning to change the rearend too? 400+rwhp is the most you will get safely in the C4 with the stock backend parts. You might need to look into a 4-link or stiffer parts. That was a problem I ran into doing mine. If that vette hooks up with that rwhp, have a tow truck standing by. The only reason mine doesn't break is because I have enough spin in the tires. Check it out before you do this.
 
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