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I have done research and based on my desire not to cut the shroud, or replace the shroud, I have decided to go with the Halltech SSN or the K&N.

It seems the K&N is nearly identical to the Halltech. I have read good things about Halltech on the forums. K&N has been around a while and seems to produce quality products.

Does anyone have experience with both products to compare?

I have read some about the filter coming loose on the Halltech but this may be resolved in a current design.

I would appreciate any thoughts.
 

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I have one of the first 10 Halltechs produced and have not had a problem of the filter coming loose.
 

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Haltech's new filter with the 100mm MAF incorporated is due out soon. According to Halltech it is an improvement over the current version. I believe the filter coming loose on the current unit was traced to improper installation. Make sure filter oil does not find it's way to the coupling areas of the Halltech tunnel and you should not have a problem.

While the Halltech and the K&N look similar the tunnel designs are different. The tunnel design on the K&N more closely resembles the tunnel design of my Lingenfelter CAI than the Halltech.

If you do not want a CAI I think the best choices are the K&N and the Halltech. If you plan on running above 150mph I would advise against opening up your grill without creating a corresponding exit for the addtional underhood air. Otherwise you will be adding lift at 150+.

:cheers:
 

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Haltech's new filter with the 100mm MAF incorporated is due out soon. According to Halltech it is an improvement over the current version. I believe the filter coming loose on the current unit was traced to improper installation. Make sure filter oil does not find it's way to the coupling areas of the Halltech tunnel and you should not have a problem.

While the Halltech and the K&N look similar the tunnel designs are different. The tunnel design on the K&N more closely resembles the tunnel design of my Lingenfelter CAI than the Halltech.

If you do not want a CAI I think the best choices are the K&N and the Halltech. If you plan on running above 150mph I would advise against opening up your grill without creating a corresponding exit for the addtional underhood air. Otherwise you will be adding lift at 150+.

:cheers:
I opened up the shroud--pushed it back and put two rods to hold it open 3", to get pure cold air thru the grill to my K&N Aircharger. Before doing so, I did a flow analysis to see if lift would be a problem. It should not be, as the air that goes around the huge swept area of the K&N will push back thru to the engine. Air flows from high to low pressure, so the excess will move to the openings in the engine compartment and out the lower part of the bay. It will not 'hang around' in the chamber where the filter is. A friend who is a fluid mechanics expert confimed this and also said as the chamber fills, the venturi underneath the car moving up to the condenscor via the air dams directing it will also take some of the thru the grill air with it. This keeps a good, cooling flow to the conden/radiator for their cooling while making sure only outside air gets to the filter and intake. The fact that the shroud will also flex helps, too. I don't see it as a problem--at least at any speed I plan on driving, which is less than 150--probably, maybe, we'll see...:smack
 

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Air flows from high to low pressure, so the excess will move to the openings in the engine compartment and out the lower part of the bay.
That is lift. Air coming in the front and pushing out underneath the car (lower part of the engine bay) will increase pressure under the car?

I pitted next to Don Garlits a long time ago, I still remember his words "Chips aren't on the ceiling. It's the little things that will kill you".

Our cars reach 150 quite easily on the track. Lift is bad whether you are running the salt flats or a road course.

:cheers:
 

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I've had both. I actually wrote a positive review of the Halltech on this website. I ended up selling the Halltech due to the filter coming off and the way the airbridge can easily deform/collapse. Honestly you can shape the airbridge with your hands.......which imo lead to the filter slipping off.

In any case, I'm now using the K&N. The airbridge is much beefier, the filter mounts and doesn't contact the shroud. I'm very happy with the K&N.
 

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That is lift. Air coming in the front and pushing out underneath the car (lower part of the engine bay) will increase pressure under the car?

I pitted next to Don Garlits a long time ago, I still remember his words "Chips aren't on the ceiling. It's the little things that will kill you".

Our cars reach 150 quite easily on the track. Lift is bad whether you are running the salt flats or a road course.

:cheers:
I don't disagree with you technically; however, the underside of the car should be able to route the air exiting back of the engine compartment with no adverse effect. Air simply flowing under the car creates lift, but the design of the underside diffuses it so as not to create a problem. I believe the slight increase from overflow in the air filter's chamber will not have any adverse effect, certainly not at speeds we normally drive. As I said, this can be returned to stock in 30 seconds, if you were going to run the Silver State and had a concern. For daily, <130-140 mph driving, the hp increase is well worth any slight dynamic upset to the x axis. :thumbsup:
 

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there is no additional lift from opening up the shroud, the method stated by whiterock, or opening the 2 holes by the side of the front grill area. for both method if the opening wasn't there the same air would have enter the condensor / radiator then exist under the car. these holes are just steal a small percentage of air that would have gone to the condensor / radiator.:cheers:
 

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there is no additional lift from opening up the shroud, the method stated by whiterock, or opening the 2 holes by the side of the front grill area. for both method if the opening wasn't there the same air would have enter the condensor / radiator then exist under the car. these holes are just steal a small percentage of air that would have gone to the condensor / radiator.:cheers:
Exactly. And the bottom line, either method, is to get cold air to the filter far better than the car's original design--at zero cost. 1 degree cooler equals 1 hp, and 15+ cooler is a very conservative estimate. Look at what the Vararam claims, and is backed up by guys who've used it. This works virtually as well, imo, as the velocity would be equal by either method, and ultimately the air to the intake is sucked in by the engine--not 'rammed' thru a filter. :thumbsup:
 

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I had the Halltech Stinger and the cold air option. Never had any issues with it. Never came loose, solid. However, recently moved to the VR (not what you want obviously due to cutting the shroud) with gains up to .2 and 2 mph over the Halltech in the 1/8th. I guess my point is it never really gave me any gains that I could tell (the Halltech that is). It was my first mod, followed by my Corsa cat-back and the car never ran faster than stock.
 

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I have the Halltech as well, no problems at all with it and best of all, installation was a piece of cake.

Best of luck -
 

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there is no additional lift from opening up the shroud, the method stated by whiterock, or opening the 2 holes by the side of the front grill area. for both method if the opening wasn't there the same air would have enter the condensor / radiator then exist under the car. these holes are just steal a small percentage of air that would have gone to the condensor / radiator.:cheers:
At speed the grill is under very high pressure. Opening additional holes in the grill area increases the air entering the engine compartment and instead of exiting in front of the motor, the additional air exits at the rear of the engine compartment. There is a difference and an increase in under hood/under car pressure. But, I am convinced that Whiterock1's method uses air already in the cavity and produces little addtional lift.

I have opened up my side vents to decrease air pressure under the hood. I will probably go to a vented hood if I can find one that looks good.

:cheers:
 

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Our Killer Bee AAIS is in testing now for the C6. It requires converting to the LS7 style probe MAF sensor and reprogramming for the new MAF code. It is completely different than the Delphi MAF code.

Two weeks to our Z06 launch, and two weeks after that for the C6 Killer Bee.

More information can be found here:

www.corvettec5.com

 

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At speed the grill is under very high pressure. Opening additional holes in the grill area increases the air entering the engine compartment and instead of exiting in front of the motor, the additional air exits at the rear of the engine compartment. There is a difference and an increase in under hood/under car pressure. But, I am convinced that Whiterock1's method uses air already in the cavity and produces little addtional lift.

I have opened up my side vents to decrease air pressure under the hood. I will probably go to a vented hood if I can find one that looks good.

:cheers:

once the air enter the grill area, 100% of that air has no choice but to go toward the condensor / radiator on the stock set up. these 2 holes that are open are all inside / within the grill area not outside. so we are still dealing with the same amout of air that enters the grill opening, just we are allowing some of it to be routed to cool the engine compartment instead of the condensor / radiator.:cheers:
 

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once the air enter the grill area, 100% of that air has no choice but to go toward the condensor / radiator on the stock set up. these 2 holes that are open are all inside / within the grill area not outside. so we are still dealing with the same amout of air that enters the grill opening, just we are allowing some of it to be routed to cool the engine compartment instead of the condensor / radiator.:cheers:
Sorry this isn't true. The edges of the grill that are not open will pressurize at speed and current opening will only ingest air coming relativly straight into the opening. The high presuure air at the edges of grill will act like a shear (with some turbulance). This effect is well documented by Pro-Stock drag racers and road racers on high speed course.

If addtional holes are opened in this high pressure area addtional air will enter through the opening that would have been part of the high pressure shear.

:cheers:
 

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Sorry this isn't true. The edges of the grill that are not open will pressurize at speed and current opening will only ingest air coming relativly straight into the opening. The high presuure air at the edges of grill will act like a shear (with some turbulance). This effect is well documented by Pro-Stock drag racers and road racers on high speed course.

If addtional holes are opened in this high pressure area addtional air will enter through the opening that would have been part of the high pressure shear.

:cheers:
sorry, my inform is dead on. once this high pressure air that hits the area that we are referring to (both edges of the grill) it can only either go into the opening for condensor / radiator or moves up (there is a smaill gap there if your stock piece is unmodify) into the engine compartment. even if you don't believe there is a small gap there, there is still no way for this high pressure air to back out of grill (while the car is moving) and not enter the engine compartment one way or another. since this air that hit the edge area can't back out, the 2 holes there just allows it to by pass the condensor / radiator and enter the engine compartment which eventually it would have anyways.

midnite, your point would have been correct if additional holes were open up OUTSIDE of our grill, but in this case we are opening up area that are inside the grill, which if you can agree any air that enter the grill, it can't go backwards. so we are more like redirecting instead of allow addition air into the engine compartment.

:cheers:
 

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sorry, my inform is dead on. once this high pressure air that hits the area that we are referring to (both edges of the grill) it can only either go into the opening for condensor / radiator or moves up (there is a smaill gap there if your stock piece is unmodify) into the engine compartment. even if you don't believe there is a small gap there, there is still no way for this high pressure air to back out of grill (while the car is moving) and not enter the engine compartment one way or another. since this air that hit the edge area can't back out, the 2 holes there just allows it to by pass the condensor / radiator and enter the engine compartment which eventually it would have anyways.

midnite, your point would have been correct if additional holes were open up OUTSIDE of our grill, but in this case we are opening up area that are inside the grill, which if you can agree any air that enter the grill, it can't go backwards. so we are more like redirecting instead of allow addition air into the engine compartment.

:cheers:
Sorry, again this isn't accurate.

Prostockers found this air pressure effect actually caused air to reverse inside thier scops and reduce the amout of air entering thier motor. If you notice the Pro-stock scoops have a smaller opening than the inside of the scoop to prevent this effect.

Air going thru the radiator opening is limted by flow dynamics once the flow threshhold is reached, no more air will flow into the radiator opening, period.
This causes a build up of pressure in the grill opening. The difference in pressure between the radiator opening and the edges of our grills causes a shearing effect where air is still moving thru the radiator opening versus the "dead" spots at the edges of our grill opening.

:cheers:
 

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Sorry, again this isn't accurate.

Air going thru the radiator opening is limted by flow dynamics once the flow threshhold is reached, no more air will flow into the radiator opening, period.
This causes a build up of pressure in the grill opening. The difference in pressure between the radiator opening and the edges of our grills causes a shearing effect where air is still moving thru the radiator opening versus the "dead" spots at the edges of our grill opening.

:cheers:
no. once again my inform is dead on, your are actually misinformed on this one. it appears that we will have to disagree until we are dead. let's assume you are correct with the air flow threashold theory. at what speed does this threadhold happen? 20mph? 50? 100? what happens if the car is traveling below this threadhold speed? would your theory still hold true below this threadhold speed?

you seem to believe there is a "dead" spots at the edge of our grill opening. midnite, i have to tell you there is no dead spot there, go check a bone stock car if you don't believe me. right above what you call the "dead" spot there is an slight opening (1/2" gap all the way across) to allow outside air that has already enter through the grill to get into the engine compartment.

i have done with this fact. good night and be safe with your track days. :cheers:
 

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no. once again my inform is dead on, your are actually misinformed on this one. it appears that we will have to disagree until we are dead. let's assume you are correct with the air flow threashold theory. at what speed does this threadhold happen? 20mph? 50? 100? what happens if the car is traveling below this threadhold speed? would your theory still hold true below this threadhold speed?

you seem to believe there is a "dead" spots at the edge of our grill opening. midnite, i have to tell you there is no dead spot there, go check a bone stock car if you don't believe me. right above what you call the "dead" spot there is an slight opening (1/2" gap all the way across) to allow outside air that has already enter through the grill to get into the engine compartment.

i have done with this fact. good night and be safe with your track days. :cheers:
Sorry read up on Aerodynamics and we will talk again.

If your theory were true at 200mph our cars would take off like an airplane from all the air going through our grills but instead they stay stable and and air that can not go through the grill opening is forced over and around the car.

:cheers:
 

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Sorry read up on Aerodynamics and we will talk again.

If your theory were true at 200mph our cars would take off like an airplane from all the air going through our grills but instead they stay stable and and air that can not go through the grill opening is forced over and around the car.

:cheers:
no need to read anything, it was my major. you might want to recheck the front grill of our car instead. since you didn't answer my questions i will assume you don't know what the thread hold speed is and will also assume the same on the question on what happens when a car is below this speed. exactly how many of us are going to go 200 mph? and how many of our cars are even capable of hitting 200mph? modified theory / principle/ physical laws are nice, but it need to apply to the EXACT situation. i can throw tons of air flow dynamic laws here to muddy the water, but it really wouldn't apply 100% to our current c6 grill area. the air flow dynamics that you mention is correct IF there is actually a "dead" space on the outer edge of the grill as you claimed, but in reality there is no dead space. there is actually an opening / gap for air hitting this "dead" space (as you claimed) to enter the engine comparment as designed by GM and any excess air not able to enter this opening will enter the condensor / radiator area instead. the air hitting this edge of the grill may be traveling at a lower speed vs the air in the middle of the grill. this would give you some of the shearing effect that you stated, but again at what speed does this threadhold happen for a none dead space area? whatever the threadhold speed, it will be definitely be higher compare to if it was actually a "dead" space. and again what happens to these c6 traveling below this threadhold speed? since you didn't dispute there is an opening there, i can only assume you discover that fact after i had pointed it out in my previous posts. :cheers:
 
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