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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK, I don't want to start any fights, I did a search, went through the first three pages and counldn't scrap up an clear cut answer, so here goes:

What is the general group of DC members using in their C5's LS1 and onward. I've used Mobil-1 and really don't have any problems with it, but I keep reading about how the U.S. Government/EPA has their foot on the oil companies pushing for reduced ZDDP which makes me wonder if all the years I've been using Mobil-1 in my 2003 LS1 and if it's the wise choice for the future? I know a lot of folks buy Amsoil, but at $10.00 a quart, it somehow doesn't seem logical. They have to produce oil the same as ExxonMobil does, so the same restrictions apply to Amsoil as well as Mobil-1 right? I spoke to a real nice guy at Royal Purple and was pretty impressed with his presentation and advice, and at $6.95 a quart I could see it being a good second choice.

But what do you gents and ladies out there think about what is a good and bad choice for a motor oil. I only drive about 3000 miles a year and like now, with snow up to my as^%$ the car is anchored inside one of the garages till April or May. And I don't want to start any fights, just looking for some good oil advice in the ever changing automotive world. It seems like the EPA is the strongest agency in the government. Just recently I read they want to raise the ethanol content in gasoline from 10% to 15% despite the fact that it will lower the MPG for that particular model car, and on the very other hand they demand higher MPG out of new 2011 and 2012 model year cars ? I mean what do they want, air or miles?

So if you guys can give me some info on the oil that best protection for my engine I appreciate it. Thank you ! :crazy:
 

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The amount of ZDDP additive is not really a seriouse issue exept for breaking a newly built engine in and ususally you change that oil afte 500 miles to put oil with lower zddp in.

The difference is oils ususally comes down to the type of detergents and things added to the oil to keep the engine clean and running efficent on top of lubrication.

IMO as long as you run FULL synthetic name brand oil you are good.

The oil filture is also a VERY big importants, stay away from FRAM or you might as well be running burnt cooking oil threw your motor because fram filters really dont do much and have been proven to be the cause behind some engine falures do to there paper end fliters comming apart and not filtering anything out of the oil.

Full synthetic and a WIX filter and you should have very long engine life.

considering you dont even put 3k miles on your car im sure you change your oil well before it begines to break down anyways.

I have no special brand cause half the time i dont keep a car long enuf to change the oil lol. but i normally run mobile 1

Mobil one is definetly no low rate oil, and every motor cycle guy i know swears by amsoil but ive never ran it in a car.

Id say mobil 1, royal purple and even valvoline and some of the little but cheeper but still good trusted name brands will do just fine.

but if you want GM recommendations they state 5w-30 full synthetic mobile one if that answers your question lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oil issues !

Thank you everyone. Your insights have helped a lot and I will continue using the top brand Full Synthetic 5W/30 I've been using, but I'm stepping up to a better grade oil filter. Since i only change the oil and filter, it's foolish not to run the best. But I sure wish the EPA would kindly get the HELL of of micro-managing the automobile business ! :thud:
 

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The amount of ZDDP additive is not really a seriouse issue exept for breaking a newly built engine in and ususally you change that oil afte 500 miles to put oil with lower zddp in.

The difference is oils ususally comes down to the type of detergents and things added to the oil to keep the engine clean and running efficent on top of lubrication.

IMO as long as you run FULL synthetic name brand oil you are good.

The oil filture is also a VERY big importants, stay away from FRAM or you might as well be running burnt cooking oil threw your motor because fram filters really dont do much and have been proven to be the cause behind some engine falures do to there paper end fliters comming apart and not filtering anything out of the oil.

Full synthetic and a WIX filter and you should have very long engine life.

considering you dont even put 3k miles on your car im sure you change your oil well before it begines to break down anyways.

I have no special brand cause half the time i dont keep a car long enuf to change the oil lol. but i normally run mobile 1

Mobil one is definetly no low rate oil, and every motor cycle guy i know swears by amsoil but ive never ran it in a car.

Id say mobil 1, royal purple and even valvoline and some of the little but cheeper but still good trusted name brands will do just fine.

but if you want GM recommendations they state 5w-30 full synthetic mobile one if that answers your question lol
Contrary to some beliefs ZDDP is very important to older small blocks. You can ruin a flat tappet cam solid or hydraulic in very short time if there is not enough ZDDP in the oil. How ever the new roller cam can operate with out a high quantity of it as they do not slide around the cam.
 

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Any oil that meets GM4718M from a brand you trust.
I have 135K miles using either Pennzoil Platinum or QuakerState HorsePower bought at Walmart.
The QS is $18/5 quart jug. That is $3.60/qt

You can spend your money how you want.
I can't justify the boutique oils.
 
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