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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
read the links

link #1


FELPRO engineers are no-doubt totally flipping and banging their heads on their desks, but I have used nothing but copperhead gaskets (with no (O) rings) on my engines for years, if you read the above links you get more info, the reason I used copperhead gaskets(installed that both sides heavily coated ,wet with copper coat spray by the way) is that I have never seen one leak or blow from cylinder pressure even when using nitrous. Now you must clean the block and totally degrease it, before you install those copperhead gaskets, he must coat both sides of the head gasket with copper coat spray, and you must torgue the cylinder head to the correct specification in stages, on my engines I usually use 35 lbs. 45 lbs. 55 lbs. 65 lbs as the stages and then go back a second time at the 65 lbs. level, each time I follow the correct torque sequence.( use the specifications that the cylinder head manufacturer suggests, if you're using studs instead of cylinder head bolts, they will be different, on aluminum heads you will need to use washers under the cylinder head bolts head, using studs you'll need washers under the nuts)

For those of you don't know the torque sequence starts in the center and spirals outward on the cylinder heads so that you're always working in a spiral pattern from the center of the head towards the outside end of the cylinder head
now I am in no way saying that copperhead gaskets are the best or only solution but there are few parts that I have ever used that have worked as flawlessly with as few problems as copperhead gaskets have worked when applied soaking wet covered with copper coat spray on a properly degreased and cleaned block have worked for me over the years, especially with a heavy dose of nitrous. And yes it goes without saying that you will have to make sure that both the cylinder heads and block or correctly machined serfaces flat, clean, degreased, and would no crud/dirt/small-objects stuck to the head gasket cylinder head or block, and of course you want to try and keep your clench distance(the distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the cylinder head) close to .0040 in. no less than 35 thousands no greater than 45 thousands .0040 is ideal

if your useing aluminum heads don,t forget you need to use OILED steel washers under the bolt heads or on the studs under the nuts to get the correct torque readings
if its permatex thread sealer in white can with a dabber in the cap, looks like molasses with a black color /slightly redish tint on white paper your useing the correct sealer

the can says" super 300" and part # 80057 on it! just dip your clean dry studs threads or bolt threads 3/4 of the thread length in the can, and let it stop dripping then install the stud in a clean dry threaded hole, don,t add coolent to the block for at least 3-4 hours , I can,t even remember the last thread/stud that leaked useing that method
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