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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm pulling apart both of my headlamps and blasting them to repaint. As I do that, I want to replace the bulbs. The ones that were in there were from around 1995 according to the back printing and were GE H5001 and H5006 halogens.

I noticed on the back in the center there is a clear glass tube projecting backwards, I presume to enable use of the fiber optics.


My question, do the replacement bulbs like the Sylvania H5006XV that I've seen others talk about still work with the fiber optic system?

I just got back from AdvanceAuto and they had some of the H5006xv in stock. I looked in the center on the back of the bulb and there's some cloudy goop on there that I'm not sure how much light would get through. Are the headlights from the vette dealers like Ecklers any different? I know there are some Wagner brand, but I have a feeling they all come from the same source, including the ones sold through the online vette dealers

I see most vette dealers have the correct T3 lights, but those are a lot more expensive, I'd prefer to go with the cheaper and brighter halogens. And yes I'm aware of the problem of voltage drop and may resort at some point to relays.
 

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I could be wrong but I don't think the headlight bulb itself is the source for the fiber optic indicator. I think there is a lens that the fiber optic line slips into, and it's in the assembly, but not the headlight bulb itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
D_B, I'm pretty sure you're wrong on that, they're built into the connector. Here is a picture of my connections:


You can see the fiber optic strand in the middle of both of them.

I'm looking to replace my whole front lamp harness as well. It's pretty amazing the price difference I see around the net. I found a very reasonable one that includes the fiber for about $225.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After looking at your message, I think I read it wrong. You are correct in that the fiber connection isn't built into the bulb itself, but the bulb must supply light somehow to the fiber. If that goop on the newer Sylvania H5006xv bulb doesn't permit any light through then the fiber sensor is useless.

I don't know what the original T3 bulbs looked like on the back where the connection is and if it had something special back there to filter light to the fiber or not.

Does someone have an original T3 bulb that they can share a picture of the backside?
 

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...the bulb must supply light somehow to the fiber....
Correct. The headlight provides the light source for the fiber optics through the rear of the unit.

My advice would be to replace your existing lamps with the same type -- the FO works.

You do not need reproduction T3 lamps unless you intend to have the car judged. If you decide to go the T3 route, be aware there is more than one type of T3. Use the NCRS Judging Guide for the specific type you need.

:thumbsup:
 

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The glass 'nib' on the rear of the lamp (as you show in your pic) transfers the light source closer to the optic fiber end, as the electrical connector is limited in seating depth.
Clean both the O.F. end (real good) and glass nib for good function. The nib sometimes gets over sprayed from the coating applied to the rear of lamp from factory. Just clean off the tip of nib.
To keep the headlamp O.F. functioning, you'll need to find lamps of similar construction.
The Sylvania bulbs you describe with the 'goop' in place of the nib will not transfer light to the O.F.
I assume the 'goop' is used to seal the lamp after evacuation in manufacture. (hence the term 'sealed beam')
I'll give you one of my tips for the O.F. system:
Use a piece of vacuum hose that fits snug over the glass nib, and will seat flush at the connector/O.F. end. Be sure it's straight and doesn't block the O.F. end.
This will help keep dirt out, and sometimes increases brightness in the O.F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure what "instant sealed beam" headlights are vs just "sealed beam". I ended up buying some Wagner 4000 and 5001 models from Willcox that did have the appropriate nib on them. Ernie from Willcox just said to put some rubber hose over the nib to where it meets up with the connector.

I had missed looking in the AIM for a better view of the assembly. Most of the online sites don't include that part of the AIM in their image (the lower right portion) as you can see here:



I had mistakenly thought that the AIM wouldn't show such an insignificant piece of the headlight construction, but mine does after I went back and looked it up. :thud:
 

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Hey stingraylust, what size rubber hosing did you use to link your bulbs to your fiber optics line?

I am currently doing a similar thing you were doing in this post.
I happened to have 2 dead but original T3 brights and one working T3 low beam. But I am going to replace all of them so that the lights match up.
 

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Hey stingraylust, what size rubber hosing did you use to link your bulbs to your fiber optics line?...
You can use anything which fits. You can also live without it. The seals are not on my 68 and the front FO values are fine.

:thumbsup:
 
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