[AlfonsoGomez]

Ever since I bought my 87 Coupe three years ago the headlights were in the open position. The guy I bought it from said HE bought it like that. I found the harness was disconnected on both sides. So I rotated them by hand to the closed position, connected the harness on both sides, switched on the lights and they would not rotate. So I took out the driver's side headlight motor, opened it and found the gears were not broken. I closed the motor and rigged it to the battery and it rotated. So I concluded that motor works. I assembled the headlight. Then I disconnected the harness on the driver's side and used a test light . When I connected the test light to an outside and the middle terminal the light went on. Then I connected the test light to the other outside terminal and the middle terminal and the light did not go on. So, I switched on the lights and the test light went on. That proves that the switch works, and the polarity is OK (I have been told that polarity changes to make the motor run in both directions). A mechanic told me there are a number of relays plus a module which is probably where the problem is. Where are the headlight motor relays and the module located? What does the module look like? I must admit I am not too handy regarding the electrics on a car and do not have electric tools except the test light. Any help out there? The wife keeps bugging me about these open-all-the-time headlights. Thank you.artyon:
Note: I checked all the fuses and they were OK.

 

[AlfonsoGomez]

OK. I will try this during the day. Thank you VERY much, you have been very helpful.:cheers:

 

[AlfonsoGomez]

Christian & Sue: thanks for the info. I changed the 3 relays and connected the battery but the headlights will not rotate. They are open. Do I have to close them manually to then test the system? If this does not work: anything else I should check?
By the way, when I took the old relays out the cargo door mechanism stopped working. I tried to open it using the switches at both doors and the one in the console but I don't hear the "click" that indicates it is operational. I will check the fuses. I know that the relays for the headlits should not have anything to do with the rear hatch circuit but you never know with these cars. Thanks again for your help.

WAR MACHINE: Thanks for the information on component locations.:cheers:

 

[AlfonsoGomez]

:huh: I almost gave up. After investing $48 for the 3 relays for the headlight motors, they would not rotate. I checked the wiring and definitely there is current going to the motors, they just won't turn. So I took out the driver's side motor and opened it:surprised :surprised :surprised I could not beleive the state it was in. It was so rusted like if you dropped it in sea water and left it there for a month. No wonder it did not work:lookinup: I did not take out the other motor but I expect it is in the same sorry state, although it turns easily when you turn it manually. The rusted-out motor only turned when you used a wrench!!

I called Eckler's and they no longer carry the rebuilt motors because of a lack of cores. I consider them at $129.99 each a good buy. They only offered to sell me an upgrade kit with the 1988 and newer motors, but at a price close to $600.00 the set plus shipping (about $38.00), plus 6.6% taxes when they arrive A local parts distributor sells me brand new motors for $220.00 each, which is not too bad considering they are new. So I guess tomorrow I will pay him a visit.

To make matters worse, and pardon the long post, my car seems to like to kill batteries. Yesterday, the car started OK, everything working fine. Today, when I finished troubleshooting the headlight motors and was getting ready to quit, I accidentally pressed the horn button in the steering wheel. :surprised The horn did not sound. So I tried to start the car and only got a clicking sound from my starter. The interior lights were very dim, the power locks, windows and rear hatch would not operate. It felt like :nuts: . So I took my trusty old battery booster and still the car would not start. The gauge read only 10.3 volts, not enough to start it. So I gave up and left the booster charging until tomorrow.

This has been done in the past few weeks: new starter. The mechanic told me he replaced the cable that runs from the battery to the starter. He installed a cable from the negative terminal of the battery to the bolt that supports the alternator to the engine block and another cable from that terminal to the chassis. So I guess the system is properly grounded.

The battery is only 3 or 4 months old, purchased at a local Western Auto store and has an 80 month warranty. The alternator was rebuilt by a reputable local mechanic using USA-made parts, not cheap Asian parts.

I would like to have some feedback from forum members regarding these issues.

Thank you very much.

PS No, there are not salvage yards in Puerto Rico that have Corvettes.

 

[AlfonsoGomez]

Patrick96LT4: The hood was up but I had the lights disconnected and the radio was not playing. The door was open, though, and the rear hatch also so the interior lights were on. You think that was it? This is the first time as far as I remember.:huh: It's weird that leaving the door open for a couple of hours can kill a battery.