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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally get the Vette back from the shop. Got the new RPM Trans and 3000rpm torque converter in it. I'm driving it down to work today, and notice that the heater is just blowing cold air! I checked the fuses, all is well there. I didn't notice any anti-freeze smell. Any idea's what to check next?
 

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I would suggest disconnecting the heater hoses and backflush it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok. So the actuator module and the blend door are the same thing. Anyone know where I can get one?
 

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What year your Vett.

My is a 1986 and I looked for 4+ months before I found one on Ebay.

Once in a while you see new in the box ones every blue moon but they want top money for it $200 or $300+.

Do what I did check E Bay every day until you find one for a good deal.

Until then use to choke cable trick.
 

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before you call the module dead-- take it out and try putting straight 12 to it. you may find out the wiring is bad.. if it is the wiring leads over to the programmer in the drivers foot well.

if the module is dead you can open the end of it and look at the resistors. odds are one of them is bad. you can verify this by following the leads from the motor to the IC board and using small jumpers put 12V direct to them and checking if the motor moves.

Any good electronics repair shop can replace the resistors if you can't . You're better off trying that route than looking for a replacement-- they really are a hard find.

One thing not mentioned is the water controller in the engine bay next to the blower motor. That's the part Aklim was talkinga bout back flushing. that is a high fail item on our older cars. If that's not moving to allow flow through it you won't get much heat either. If it's bad PM me and I'll give you a cheap fix instead of paying the $150-200 for a new part.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
"One thing not mentioned is the water controller in the engine bay next to the blower motor. That's the part Aklim was talkinga bout back flushing"

okay, so that part is different than the heater core itself? I'll have to see if I can find tha actuator to test. My shop book doesn't have it listed...
 

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What year are we talking about? It would be a lot more helpful if you said I have a 86 Corvette instead of "C4 Corvette". Some years, things change.


I am saying that if you can find the hoses going to and from the heater core, disconnect them and back flush them.
 

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"One thing not mentioned is the water controller in the engine bay next to the blower motor. That's the part Aklim was talkinga bout back flushing"

okay, so that part is different than the heater core itself? I'll have to see if I can find tha actuator to test. My shop book doesn't have it listed...
follow the lines/tubes from the heater core on your firewall. it looks like a fuel regulator with a small arm and vacuum line going to it. almost directly over the blower motor

vacuum pump it to see if the arm moves and while running with hot coolant you should feel the coolant heat the lines on the back side of it-- if it works properly. don't just trust the arm moving the vavle inside may be broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well the good news is that its cheap. Maybe that backflush will knock it out and I won't need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't think the inline flow valve was clogged, but due to the fact I obliterated it during the inspection. A new one is on the way :crazy:

I checked the actuator against 12v and the motor spins, so no need to replace that. I'm having the cars ECM re-flashed, so as soon as it gets back I'll start it up and test the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've replaced the inline flow valve, and flushed the heater coil. If I close the blend door manually all is good. Lots of heat. What is interesting is, when I connect the actuator to the wiring harness, it just clicks back and forth in the middle position. Yet when I hook it up to 12v the motor spins fine. Would this point to a wiring problem, a problem with control unit for the Heater/AC, or could it still be a bad Actuator?
 
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