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Discussion Starter #1
We after a couple of months setting waiting for suspension parts and work I connected the battery, uncovered the carb, and took a quick peek inside the carb all is clear, Did not bother opening the choke plate to look under it.

Started the motor idled a while to warm up a bit. Sounding good. Reached in blipped the throttle like all good hot rodders do.

AND BALM! click click click click. I immediately shut it down.

Keep in mind this is a Carburetted supercharged 383 stroker.


Here is the culprit. the air cleaner nut. It must have been laying on the primary throttle plate under the choke.







It went threw the blower with no damage.. Whew...

But then it lodged in the valve an bent it. It then landed flat on the thickest part of the forged blower piston.



It then embedded its self in the head. One tuff nut...





But this is the coolest part it did not break the piston. But it punched the neatest hexagon hole in the head.





When working on an engine never assume any thing always check. It might save a few bucks. Guess I won't be driving the vette this week...:thud:


So what was the dumbest thing you have did to your car?
 

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:surprised Great pic..Thats some wild compression. :thumbsup:
 

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Ugghhh. I feel your pain. That's what I did to earn my 403...
Since my LS1 was an aluminum block, I cracked the cylinder sleeve, crushed the piston, and split the block in the #7 hole... with a washer...

Hopefully you can weld the head, and replace the valves and it won't be too bad after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nope going to up grade the heads... thinking AFR, Brodix...:huh:
 

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:surprised Thats sucks
 

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That SUCKS!!

But it looks as though it's smiling at you.


 

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Damn Ivan, that's crazy!! You need to hang that head on the shop wall though, that's about the coolest picture I've ever seen.:laughing:

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep I was amazed when I puled the nut out. I was expecting to see a jagged hole...:D
 

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I would mount the head and the nut on the wall in the garage :partyon:
 

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... going to upgrade ...
This is what gets you through life like a real gearhead. When in doubt and something breaks, ain't nothin' cuz it's time to UPGRADE!

Sadly this helps keep the wallet on that anorexic diet plan that never goes away.:D
 

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Suckky Day for sure

Good thing you've got the Savoir faire to figure it all out

Sorry for your loss

Bon:nuts:
 

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Well Nobody's perfect

And we all forget things


Bon
 

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(1) everyone WITHOUT EXCEPTION screws up at TIMES

(2) any decent cylinder head shop can TIG WELD and RE-MACHINE that head back to as good as new, and ID bet it can be done for UNDER $300, or (UNDER $50 if you do the work yourself, but obviously 95% of the guys don,t have the skill or tools,required( both a decent 250 amp TIG WELDER AND A MILL))

(3) THE TRICK IS LOCATING A DECENT CYLINDER HEAD SHOP WITH SKILLED EMPLOYEES

that's EXACTLY why I do all the work possible on my cars and engines....WHY Ive collected thousands of dollars in tools and done years of research...
I got soooooooo... tired and pissed off from dealing with scammers, thieves and morons who were in business too collect money from the CLUELESS masses of guys that won,t or don,t take the time and effort to find out what actually needs to be done and exactly how its supposed to be accomplished
and finding out that a huge percentage of the mechanics/garages and machine shops were at least partly staffed with guys who knew less and cared FAR less about doing the job correctly than I could ever comprehend, If your going to BE in business you might THINK youll want to build a good reputation and look for repeat business, but all to frequently they are in it for a quick buck and screw the results or customers:crazy:

Ive seen machine shops throw ALUMINUM cylinder heads in a CAUSTIC SODA bath to clean them, Ive seen MORONS try too charge me too torque plate hone a block, when they didn,t even know what a TORQUE PLATE WAS or OWN ANY that fit that family of engines, Ive seen guys try to beat piston pins out of rods, guys who think a valve job is simply slapping grinding compound on a valve and using a drill to lap the valve into the seat, guys that charge for degreeing in a cam who don,t own a degree wheel or a dial indicator and think aligning dots on the cam drive is degreeing in a cam,.....I could go further but you get the IDEA, LEARN and DO as much as you can yourself, collect the tools and manuals you need, and join a few clubs and find the knowledgeable few guys that do their own work rather than pay exorbitant prices to shops and take their chances... you'll be way ahead!

finding a decent machine shop
GOOD MACHINE SHOPS ARE RARE, GOOD SHOPS THAT ARE DOING WORK THAT'S PRICED REASONABLY LOW ARE RARER STILL , and FINDING A GOOD MACHINIST THAT KNOWS AND UNDERSTANDS ENGINEs AND ENGINE THEORY IS STILL HARDER,but they do exist, and yes expect to pay a price for quality work that's a bit higher than the typical local shop charges because up to date quality machines in good condition and skilled help that won,t screw things up costs more

READ THRU THIS LINK

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=321&p=2931&hilit=track+notes+pad#p2931

ask lots of questions and listen to the answers and read all you can about engine assembly and theory ,because its up to YOU to know what YOU want done and YOU'LL, usually need to inspect and assemble the components and understand the way they function, clearances etc.
IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GET INTO KNOWING WHAT YOUR DOING THESE LINKS AND SUB-LINKS MAY BE USEFUL......youll quickly learn that a certain percentage of the advice you get from internet and coffee shop commandos, is worthless , and youll find that there ARE well known combos that produce good power, with time youll see a pattern in results and common mistakes , and understand more about how and why some combos will produce better results


I went thru the same thing a few years back, machine shops rarely charge less than $40 per hour and frequently much more, I got very tired of paying for the simple things that even a semi skilled home hobbyist could easily do if he had a mill. and bought a mill as a result, theres info in this link, below, that should help, I didn,t buy a top of the line mill, but its a great value for a hobbyist thats only using it a few times a week, its easily paid for itself in under 2 years in machine shop costs I avoided, its about 8ft tall and it weights about 2600lbs and takes up about a 6ft x 6ft floor space so you best have a bit of room in your shop, now your not going to bore blocks or do line hones etc. but cutting valve guides for valve seals or milling a bit of clearance for a push-rods or drilling holes for steam vents in 400sbc heads etc are hardly a challenge.
its the little stuff that adds up the costs when your building an engine and the time it takes to wait on a machine shop to get something done and wondering if its going to be done correctly is also a P.I.T.A. and a bit of careful research and some decent tools goes a long way towards your increasing your engine building skills,
just be aware that the cutters, tooling , mill vise, etc all add to the costs, and yes its a bit intimidating at first even though Id used one for several years when I was in college, and some of my friends have mills, as any new power tool tends to be to some extent, but after using it a few times that passes and its like the rest of the tools in the shop, you grab it when needed and don,t think twice








http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2198
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good information Grumpy. I agree with you 100%. I have tools that I have use only once or twice, but they have saved me hundreds of dollars over there cost.

These are 487 heads so can't see putting much more money in them. Don't have a mig wished I did...
 

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10,260 Posts
holy smokes, what a crazy deal. That hole is amazing. Too bad you had to tear into the motor again with so few miles on it. :down:

at least you're making lemonade out of what life gave you :D
 
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