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Super Moderator
8,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
youll need a few basic tools and a good understanding of what your doing, but its certainly not all that difficult.

I was asked where to get a CHEAP degree wheel

heres one you can print out and save for engine builds on the engine stand
(put curser on an click)

BTW you CAN advance or retard the roller timing chain its done bye drilling out the cam index pin hole in the timing gear and installing an off set bushing

you could buy these from summit racing or similar parts from jegs

this is 180 degrees out (the distrib rotor points at cylinder #6, so before you drop in the distrib rotate the crank 360 degrees bring both marks to the 12 o-clock location, then drop in the distrib pointing to cylinder #1, and adjust ignition timing from that point sells this KIT
Comp Cams #249-4796 Cams/249/4796/10002/-1

and you can buy these

MOR-62191 $44 (wheel)

MOR-61755 $47 (SBC)
MOR-61756 $47.(BBC)crank sockets

SUM-900188 $17 (piston stop, head off)
SUM-900189 $6.95(piston stop, head on)

TFS-90000 $94.95 (degree kit)

youll also want two flat tappet solid lifters and two weak check springs

DC Crew
12,249 Posts
I was told many moons by both Crane and Competition that degreeing a cam will actually change the RPM range the cam "produces" at. My experience is that is true. I know when I recently ordered a cam from Competition for a classic Pickup I am building they automatically offset the cam pin to give me more low end as per my wishes.

Every cam at least needs to be checked!

Thanks grumpy, good post as usual! :thumbsup:
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