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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I swapped my 3.07 rearend for one with 3.73's. The perfect mod. I couldn't be happier. I took a few pics of the process so here is a little how to.

First get the car in the air. I had the use of a lift but this can be done just as easy on jack stands. Even with the lift you need to put the car on stands so that the rear tires are about 1" in the air.


Next remove your exhaust. I didn't add pics of this as they can differ.

Remove your rear leaf spring. Do this by removing the side bolts first support the end of the spring with a jack and remove the nut and bushing. The bolt is 13/16 and the nut is 22mm Take note of how many threads are showing as this is your ride height. After that remove the 4 bolts in the middle. These are 15 mm Be sure to take note of the spacers and shims on this part. The bolts are circled in red.


Now that the spring is out of the way remove the end links that attach to the center of the housing. I had to remove one end to remove the half shafts (that comes later) so I used a pickle fork and swung it out of the way.
Again important bolts are circled in red. The bolts are 15mm.
ds



Next you are going to remove the lower arms. Just remove them from the housing and swing them down.The nuts are 13mm and the bolts are 15mm.


Now your onto the halfshafts and driveshaft. All of the bolts here are 8mm. Shocking isn't it? There is no easy way to do this I found that with the shafts in the position in the pic below is the only way to get on them with a rachet. After loosing pull halfshafts loose and let them hang. This is the part that required the removing of the endlink. Note in the picture in the next step how the u-joints are taped with electrical tape this keeps them from coming apart and losing your needle bearings.


You are ready to unbolt and remove the housing. Support the transmission/ rearend mount with a jackstand. This is important as this brace holds the trans up and you will not be able to remove the rearend without it supported. There are 4 bolts to this part. The side ones are 18mm on the bolt and 3/4 on the nut. The big suckers are 13/16 bolt and 22mm nut. (I think:D)
I didn't get a picture of the big bolts so look at the second picture to see where they go. The rearend is out now and you can see the bracket.



Now wrestle that old sucker out and put the new one in. Installation is the removal in reverse.:laughing: This is a very easy job and anyone can do it by themselves with basic handtools.. It would go quicker with a friend, if for no other reason you need someone to hand you a beer, it would really pay off when you are bench pressing the housing.

One last thing and your done. Buy stock in your favorite tires.:devil:
 

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Great write-up! Now all we need is a good review so I can order myself a set of 3.73's :laughing:

EDIT: Found the review thread about 2 seconds later :crazy: I'm good with mondays...... :laughing:
 

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Must be nice to have access to a lift.:)
Nice write-up.:thumbsup:
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Bad said:
Must be nice to have access to a lift.:)
:
No truer words have been spoken. I told my dad it would be booked up if he bought one. Now if I could only get him to store it in my garage.:laughing:
 

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Great posting! Detailed enough to follow what's happening, but not overwhelming.

Thanks for posting it!

Steven
 

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Great job and enjoy that raw rear wheel spin!!!
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
poncherello said:
Nice write up, how long did it take you?
Well I fooled around with some other stuff as well as the rear end and all told I was on the lift about 5 hours. I would say the rear end swap was in the 3.5-4 hour range. That's taking the pics and everything along the way.
 

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...twisting your mind and smashing your dreams.
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:partyon: :partyon: :partyon:

Kick Ass man! That outta wake that bad boy up! Now it's time to get the rest of the goodies installed!

See ya tomorrow:thumbsup:
 

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C4 rear end swap 96 LT4

Thank you for all this information. I have a 96LT4 and am thinking of changing the rear end. Do you think I should go with a 3.73, or go for the 4.10? I do not race Mr. Vette and he has only 32,000 miles under his belt. The only other mod I have done is a Corsa SS cat back exhaust which has no resonance like my muffler eliminators did. I just want more, uh, ooomph! Any other thoughts? Thanks

Frank
 

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Thank you for all this information. I have a 96LT4 and am thinking of changing the rear end. Do you think I should go with a 3.73, or go for the 4.10? I do not race Mr. Vette and he has only 32,000 miles under his belt. The only other mod I have done is a Corsa SS cat back exhaust which has no resonance like my muffler eliminators did. I just want more, uh, ooomph! Any other thoughts? Thanks

Frank
Either gearing would give really good results....but for a six speed car, especially with the little bit higher rpm shift point of the LT4 engine, 4.10's are "by far" the best performance choice........Joe:thumbsup:
 

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Raid,
Did you replace the whole carrier, or just the gears. If just the gears, did you have to set pinion pre-load on the pinion gear? Also, where did you buy your set up?
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Raid,
Did you replace the whole carrier, or just the gears. If just the gears, did you have to set pinion pre-load on the pinion gear? Also, where did you buy your set up?
I bought the whole set up from Joe B he upgraded to a Dana 44 and I wanted 3.73's.
 

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I bought the whole set up from Joe B he upgraded to a Dana 44 and I wanted 3.73's.
I want one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Man this write up has really saved my butt. Your view on things is alot better than the manual. One question, I am just planning on redoing the seals, how big a task is that? I have the diff. out.
 

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All of you guys are great. Also, you know more than me. This may sound dumb, but, not being a mechanic, about how much does a rearend swap for 3.73 gears for Mr. Vette, cost since I cannot do this myself?

Thank you for all your info, Oh, Mr Vette says thank you too.

Frank
 
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