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Anyone know much about hydraboost conversions? I was curious of any disatvantages to this system, difficulty of install, and what kind of parts I will need. Thanks.
Hydraboost conversion
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Yes, I was talking about the power steering thingie.. Is it called hydraboost or is that a name brand? Genericly, what would it be called?
My biggest question is what kind of vehicle should I look for a donor in? Large, diesels, right? But is anything my best bet?
My biggest question is what kind of vehicle should I look for a donor in? Large, diesels, right? But is anything my best bet?
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I recently bought a '92 Chev. 1 ton dually truck that had been a tow truck. I bought it for the 454 to build for my '78 Vette, but the added bonus was it had the HydraBoost brake setup. I pulled the vaccum boost off my Vette, and the HydraBoost fit right in place. It all connects to the power steering pump.
Bill
Bill
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thanks guys. Looks like alot of different things will work...
hydro boost
We put a 01 Dodge 2500 unit on my buddies 79, used the stock C3 master cylinder, and made the power steering lines. Works awesome! My family owns a salvage yard (that's what I do) and the best and least expensive unit I think, is off a 94-02 astrovan. I gave my buddie the only one I had so I'm waiting on one to come in for myself. There was a little fabrication involved so we have all the measurements and patterns saved in a plasma table computer here in town so we can do as many corvettes as we want. If you need help call me @8007382886
Hummer:thumbsup:
We put a 01 Dodge 2500 unit on my buddies 79, used the stock C3 master cylinder, and made the power steering lines. Works awesome! My family owns a salvage yard (that's what I do) and the best and least expensive unit I think, is off a 94-02 astrovan. I gave my buddie the only one I had so I'm waiting on one to come in for myself. There was a little fabrication involved so we have all the measurements and patterns saved in a plasma table computer here in town so we can do as many corvettes as we want. If you need help call me @8007382886
Hummer:thumbsup:
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Thats awsome. You guys are the best. I will contact you as soon as I come up with a booster, and convert my car to power steering. (You dont have those parts, do you?)
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Re: hydro boost
how much would everything cost total?
STROKED79 said:
how much would everything cost total?
No problem. Give me a little while to figure out a total, if I can I'll break down the prices for you guys. Trust me I can save you big $$$$ vs th hydro people. Me and my buddie both have 79's and we do this for the love of hot rodding and corvettes. I should have a price tomorrow. Thank's you guys. If I can Ill get you some digital images of the finished product (If you want).
Hummer
Hummer
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I did this conversion 4 or 5 year ago and brought it with me to the corvette forum where a company picked up the idea and offer kits at rediculous prices.
Any of the units from the 80's or 90's work. They come on all diesels vans and trucks. Just go to the wreckers and look for a power steering pump connected to the brakes and you found a hydraboost.
They are extremely compact and powerful.
I paid $20 for my first unit and $50 for the next. They are different internally if you choose a 1/2 ton or 1 ton dually.
The units can be used as received. I remove the plate from the unit and turn it 180 degrees to put the lines on the bottom rather then the top.
Other then a linkage shortening the unit is a total bolt in and even a normal power master cylinder bolts right up. The non power master cylinder needs modifying.
With this unit and good stainless calipers you will have a very powerful braking system
If anyone goes this route I could talk them through it.
The kits are in the $500 or more range or you can make your own kit. You need about $100 worth of made up lines plus the cost of the unit from the wreckers.
Any of the units from the 80's or 90's work. They come on all diesels vans and trucks. Just go to the wreckers and look for a power steering pump connected to the brakes and you found a hydraboost.
They are extremely compact and powerful.
I paid $20 for my first unit and $50 for the next. They are different internally if you choose a 1/2 ton or 1 ton dually.
The units can be used as received. I remove the plate from the unit and turn it 180 degrees to put the lines on the bottom rather then the top.
Other then a linkage shortening the unit is a total bolt in and even a normal power master cylinder bolts right up. The non power master cylinder needs modifying.
With this unit and good stainless calipers you will have a very powerful braking system
If anyone goes this route I could talk them through it.
The kits are in the $500 or more range or you can make your own kit. You need about $100 worth of made up lines plus the cost of the unit from the wreckers.
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281 Posts
Do you run into any additional problems with a car that is originally equipped w/ manual brakes? I noticed that hydtratech had a custom adapter plate for this application..?
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9,731 Posts
norvalwilhel,
I got my complete HydraBoost set up off a 92 Chev 1 ton dually. You said that these were different internally....Do I need to modify it in any way, or can I just bolt it on and go?
Thanks!
Bill
I got my complete HydraBoost set up off a 92 Chev 1 ton dually. You said that these were different internally....Do I need to modify it in any way, or can I just bolt it on and go?
Thanks!
Bill
Tell them about drilling the firewall? Me and my buddie machined plates to adapt to the pre-existing holes in your car. The pedal to booster "linkage" will have to be machined to an exact length. We also turn threads on that linkage so pedal pressure can be adjusted. If there is no adjustment your brakes will lock up way too easy or not have enough pedal pressure on the booster.
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746 Posts
The units are externally the same from early 80's , 90's and I think the 2000's. The internal bore is larger on the heavier trucks so these units generate a little more power. I have used the 1/2 ton and the 1 ton and find little difference but if give the chance I choose the larger truck/van.
The plate that comes with the units fits our firewall without drilling new holes. The center hole needs slight enlargement but a file will do.
The plate should be removed and rotated 180 degrees to put the line underneath for a neater appearance.
To rotate the plate, remove the large nut, pull the plate off, file the little locating tit off and 180 degrees from it take a 1/2 round file and file a 1/4 inch notch but only 1/8th of a inch deep. Take a 1/4 in bolt and with a hawksaw cut about 3/16 off the end. Use this little 3/16 sliver to drop into the knotch you filed and into the groove in the rotated hydraboost. Install the nut and the unit is locked in this new position .
Remove the studs from the plate and use them in the firewall. Install the 4 studs from under the dash in the existing holes and pull them through and tight with an oversize nut as a spacer and the proper METRIC nut.
The linkage is 3/8th and I don't remember fine or coarse. Anyway cut the shaft off so the remander equals the stock unit and run the proper die over the shaft. Thread as far as possible for lots of adjustment and then use the stock clevis.
The unit slides over the studs and is easy to bolt to the firewall. No more laying under the dash except to hook up the pedal]
Master cylinders. The non power master needs a deeper rod but the power master works fine and bolts directly to the hydraboost. I filled in the hole in my non power master and used it.
For lines I used the russel flex stainless lines and put my own red fittings on it.
ONe line from the pump to the large fitting on the hydraboost, from the smaller fitting to the power steering control valve and the very smalll slip on line return to the power steering pump. Tee the return line.
Hope this covers most things.
The plate that comes with the units fits our firewall without drilling new holes. The center hole needs slight enlargement but a file will do.
The plate should be removed and rotated 180 degrees to put the line underneath for a neater appearance.
To rotate the plate, remove the large nut, pull the plate off, file the little locating tit off and 180 degrees from it take a 1/2 round file and file a 1/4 inch notch but only 1/8th of a inch deep. Take a 1/4 in bolt and with a hawksaw cut about 3/16 off the end. Use this little 3/16 sliver to drop into the knotch you filed and into the groove in the rotated hydraboost. Install the nut and the unit is locked in this new position .
Remove the studs from the plate and use them in the firewall. Install the 4 studs from under the dash in the existing holes and pull them through and tight with an oversize nut as a spacer and the proper METRIC nut.
The linkage is 3/8th and I don't remember fine or coarse. Anyway cut the shaft off so the remander equals the stock unit and run the proper die over the shaft. Thread as far as possible for lots of adjustment and then use the stock clevis.
The unit slides over the studs and is easy to bolt to the firewall. No more laying under the dash except to hook up the pedal]
Master cylinders. The non power master needs a deeper rod but the power master works fine and bolts directly to the hydraboost. I filled in the hole in my non power master and used it.
For lines I used the russel flex stainless lines and put my own red fittings on it.
ONe line from the pump to the large fitting on the hydraboost, from the smaller fitting to the power steering control valve and the very smalll slip on line return to the power steering pump. Tee the return line.
Hope this covers most things.
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