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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my "new" C3 it is possible to remove the key in the 'off' position, and after removal, to turn the lock and start the car; in opposite direction things are the same: from run the lock can be turned to '' off'' .
Is this normal? The supplying garage said that they found the same thing on other vettes too, and even mentioned having found this on a Mustang.

In these positions the steering lock will not engage, but normal operation, with key in lock is possible: press down the release lever, turn the key to ''lock'' and remove the key, then the steering lock will engage.

So, is it 'normal' that the key can be removed in the off position, and operate the car without key?
Or is it perhaps a ''common'' wear item?

Thanks,
Co
 

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On my "new" C3 it is possible to remove the key in the 'off' position, and after removal, to turn the lock and start the car; in opposite direction things are the same: from run the lock can be turned to '' off'' .
Is this normal?
Thanks,
Co
No, Other wise why would yo need a key?

BTW Your car should have to be in "Park" to allow the key to be turned to off (so you or your passenger cannot turn the car off and lock the steering while the car is moving)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is nothing about that in my owners manual for my year.

To lock the steering wheel, the release leaver under the ignition switch needs to be pushed in order to be able to turn the key to the lock position, so there is a safeguard against inadvertently engaging the steering lock .
So, if the ignition is in the 'lock' position, indeed the key is required.

I have never come across such feature on any car yet, but how is this the possible? wear?

And there is nothing in the manual that the key can only be released in the Park position ; how would that be accomplished? mechanical interlock or what?

Thanks,
Cor
 

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You've probably got some broken plastic inside the steering column shroud (the plastic piece where the ignition switch resides), as there are multiple mechanical interlocks related to the key release lever, and if this release lever is no longer exactly where it should be (due to missing chunks of the supporting plastic inside the shroud) then you can even pull the key while the engine is running !:surprised

Mine did what yours is doing until I rebuilt the steering column, and replaced my broken plastic shroud with a new one.:thumbsup:
 

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Just to add to Metalkid's post.

There is a feed back from the auto selection lever via a cable to the base of the steering column in the engine bay.....this is how the ignition senses where the gear selection lever is.
If this cable is out of adjustment you'll be able to remove the key say in reverse just before park position etc.

But it sounds like Metalkid is on the money with something stopping it from working alltogether.


BTW I removed my column the other day and found this lever at the base of it and looked it up.....I have no feedback cable....nothing............Bubba strikes again:crazy:




:cheers:Liam
 

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GM keys from way back are thin to begin with, and some will wear to the point they can be removed anytime. If you look at the side of the key, there are 6 positions (registers) where the pins in the cylinder hit to make the ends line up so the key will turn. Depending on how your key is coded it may have enough wear that it will come out.

Little tough to explain but it's kind of like this:

Position 1 2 3 4 5 6

| | | | | |
| | | |
| |
| |

If you draw a line along the bottom you can see the shape of a key. Again, that's a really rough picture, but should give you the idea.
As the key/cylinder wears, the edges get rounded and the key will come out, again, depending on how the key is coded.
 

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If you can remove the key in other than lock-off position and/or rotate the cylinder without the key, then the ign cylinder is worn or bad.
You can get a new one with 2 keys at Autozone for 10 bucks.
It will be clear to you about key removal with a new cylinder uninstalled.

You may also have other additional problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Right, I just tried the other spare key, never been used, and also that one can be removed in all positions, so the problem is in the barrel.

Some other related matters are, that to turn the key to the ACC position, one has to push the key in fully till it bottoms out, only the can the ACC position be reached.

Also, only when the key is fully pressed in, the warning buzzer will sound, when the door is opened, and finally I also found, that I do not have a warning buzzer, when the lights are on and the key is in the lock.

So, I guess that all this means that the cylinder barrel needs to be replaced.
I also noticed, that the key surround, that double lever thing around the key has about 3/32" axial play, so that means that there is more to this???

Autozone is a bit far for me, but I"ll have a look at the Rockauto site, as they should have a cylinder and keys too, and ship to Europe; I used them before.

Any other parts I should need, from your experience?

Thanks,
Cor
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In the meantime I looked it up on Rockauto, and they supply the cylinder and keys from many manufacturers
Which one's should I avoid?
Standard motor products- Chrome finish-T series-7.08
Original engine management products--9.21
Standard motor products--15.64
Airtex/wells--15.91
ACDelco Chrome--21.79

From the picture of the key, I think I currently have a Standard Motor products ignition lock.

As these are inexpensive items, I guess I should order the original ACDelco, unless other makes are superior [?]

There are more items on the list, but those are black, and I want the original chrome item.

Anything else I should look at, "while I am at it" :laughing:

Thanks,
Cor
 

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Any of the cylinders are good.
You may as well get this while you're in there. It's really packaged by Dorman, but Rockauto should be able to get it. About 10 bucks. New sector and rack gear.



You WILL need this. The old one will crumble

 
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