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Discussion Starter #1
I need to grind it out a little to fit better though.

I really want to drop the whole rear end out but I'm holding myself back.

 

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:WTF Over... How is the spring gonna ride up?

Unless you pulla Joey Dunlop and unload the suspension fully and break a shock the spring should always have a load on it.

You've added a spring with a rate of what to push a against a spring with a rate an order of magnitude higher.

Also no bushings is gonna be harsh and metal to metal... not safe in the long run...

Why not use poly cushins with an old rubber cushion on top?

You really gotta stop wrenchin and start drivin...

Hint: when you modify things to work better you need a baseline for comparison otherwise you're just pissin in the wind... IMHO
 

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One more safety comment... Lock washers are not sufficient for the bolts holding the half shaft flange to the stub axle flange... Get some saftey wire or french locks.

:surprised
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I haven't touched anything on the rear end.

I didn't notice it being harsh at all

The top has poly

I want to order the safety wire pliers and a pound of the wire and do everything.

I could see the spring bouncing off the mount. TT did the same thing but with washers and bolts.
 

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I used 2 sets of poly cusions, one on top w/ a washer and locknut and one on the bottom, they sandwich the spring. Ride height is adjusted by moving the 2 cusions up or down. You can compare the spring on the bolt w/ the springs in the valve train, at a certain rpm those will float. The same will happen with the leaf spring, ride on a very rough road with a high susp. frequency and it will start to exhibit that type of behaviour. Of course, this is more an issue with softer springs and the road would have to be pretty rough.

As for the lockwashers, they will work if you use loctite. That's what I do sometimes, those french locks are a pita and impossible to get here. Wirelocking all those bolts? YAAAWN!! that's no fun at all.
 

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One more safety comment... Lock washers are not sufficient for the bolts holding the half shaft flange to the stub axle flange... Get some saftey wire or french locks.

:surprised
I don't think mine even have lockwashers. If i do they are totally flat.

Its fine.

But what do i know. I only have 400,000+ miles of driving experience with my car.
 

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Im lost here so let me see if i understand what your after. the small coil spring is there to help keep the leaf spring from riding up the bolt that the coil spring is on, is that right or am i way off course :laughing:

if that is what your after why couldn't you just use a long spacer inplace of the spring and put some rubber bushings at each end to get rid of the metal to metal contact. But im sure if it was that easy you would be doing though.

Kevin
 

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I used 2 sets of poly cusions, one on top w/ a washer and locknut and one on the bottom, they sandwich the spring. Ride height is adjusted by moving the 2 cusions up or down. You can compare the spring on the bolt w/ the springs in the valve train, at a certain rpm those will float. The same will happen with the leaf spring, ride on a very rough road with a high susp. frequency and it will start to exhibit that type of behaviour. Of course, this is more an issue with softer springs and the road would have to be pretty rough.

As for the lockwashers, they will work if you use loctite. That's what I do sometimes, those french locks are a pita and impossible to get here. Wirelocking all those bolts? YAAAWN!! that's no fun at all.

I get the resonance frequency of a spring thing...

Are we really operating in a range that would come close to even a harmonic? (I dont loose any sleep over this one :laughing: )

Second, dont leaf style Semi-eliptical springs have a natural damping term with the friction of the springs on themselves? (as apposed to mono leafs) and since each leaf is a differnt length you would think some of the terms would cancel or at least keep things from resonating.

The double and triple valvespring thing... Beehive Springs? (exept the swallowing a valve thing...)

:huh: :laughing:
 

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I don't think mine even have lockwashers. If i do they are totally flat.

Its fine.

But what do i know. I only have 400,000+ miles of driving experience with my car.
Ok, I've had a set properly torqued with new lock washers loosen in less than a thousand miles. How can this be? How about a failing Ujoint.

No Lockwashers & Locktite is ok but I prefer a visually verifiable locking mechanisim.

(400,000) Some times it's better to be lucky than good. :D
 

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I get the resonance frequency of a spring thing...

Are we really operating in a range that would come close to even a harmonic? (I dont loose any sleep over this one :laughing: )

Second, dont leaf style Semi-eliptical springs have a natural damping term with the friction of the springs on themselves? (as apposed to mono leafs) and since each leaf is a differnt length you would think some of the terms would cancel or at least keep things from resonating.

The double and triple valvespring thing... Beehive Springs? (exept the swallowing a valve thing...)

:huh: :laughing:

Well, the shocks should keep the suspension from moving at a high frequency.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This car was modified like norvals. The Bumpsteer was fixed the same exact way. It was a grand sport replica. I'm sure it helps if it's on this car. He is running a stiffer die spring though. Also note not safety wire or french locks.

 

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Ok, I've had a set properly torqued with new lock washers loosen in less than a thousand miles. How can this be? How about a failing Ujoint.

No Lockwashers & Locktite is ok but I prefer a visually verifiable locking mechanisim.

(400,000) Some times it's better to be lucky than good. :D
are you going to be one of these worry warts? I'd be worried about all those custom panhard bars and end links coming apart.

it's time to get that thing on a track. http://www.comscc.org
 
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