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Damn Oliver, thats going to be bad ass for sure!!!
Your trans should be at CIC tomorrow. :thumbsup:

Is Josh selling this as a kit, or was it just made for yours?
it pretty bad ass also.

 

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That's a really nice wheel you picked out, great choice for the direction of the build you're going with. Progress seems to be moving along a a quick pace.

Terry
 

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Is Josh selling this as a kit, or was it just made for yours?
it pretty bad ass also.


The suspension is available for the rear only as well as a four corner kit, it is made in Germany by ACP Euskirchen.

From what i know the first one on the market, they sell this one since the end of 1990`s .
There is a fully adjustable version with Koni shocks available too, which the producer of the kit talked me out of it.
It is not much needed if you are not focusing mainly on the track and trying to improve your lap times for some 10th´s or so.
For the one in the need of it, it is more monies and some more fabrication work to do.

This one is the version with non-adjustable Bilstein shocks.
They have tested and improved it during the many years they make it, it works perfect for the C3 as it comes out of the box.
You may only want to chose the spring rate, if you consider different engine weights, for instance iron BB vs LS.

Many drivers use this Bilstein Version on the track too.
The front springs are specific made for ACP by german manufacturer TRW.
In my kit it is the 80-kg-spring rating ( sorry for the metric...) .

Also there is the strut rod assembly and the long-life high performance joints by "Hirschmann" .

You can also get an additional lower strut rod assembly. This are modified C4 (´84 to `87 ) rods.
As the Koni - kit, this makes the most sense if you have constantly heavy loads on the car when racing often.
They help to relieve stress from the differential, or when hard cornering at races to prevent yokes coming off axles.
Or you could also gain from the additional lower strut rods, if other related parts are already worn out.
Other than that you won`t need it, that`s the info i got on it.
Adjustment has to be performed with all four wheels on a stand.


I only wanted adjustable height and improved riding performance.
It is a huge improvement regarding hopping at lower speeds and straight run at higher speeds, also when it comes to keep track on tight lanes, ground waves etc..


Landroads around my place can be tight, and i remember unpleasant situations with my previous 81 with the stock set-up, when uneven road surface occured during overtaking other cars and the 81 moved sidewards.
This is something i hope to improve with the suspension.



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I've always admired Josh's work, but from looking at the shop pictures I have to also say kudos to the guy who sweeps the floor. I wish I could keep my shop that clean. :thumbsup:

I'm going to be right down the street next week. I'll have to see if I can work in a couple minutes to drop in again to see some of the latest projects.
 

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I hate to be 27th person to say this, but DAMN...those wheels are sick! They look like the AR Salt Flats design, but the bronze painted centers and polished faces are better than any other take on the design I've ever seen. Nice choice.
 

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Hey Eli,

but i don`t hate you`re saying it....without the other opinions this would make for a lonely thread, no matter it`s likes or dislikes.

CIC is also a SCHOTT-Wheels dealer, so it was easy to have them made custom-fit for the car, Josh took all the exact measurements before they were made at Schott.
We have still been pondering on the details during the machining-process of the wheels (due to my undecisiveness on some details that still follows me up as we step on the build...).
Dave from Schott wheels was also a great help on that.


I tried to find out if three bar knock offs create a confusing look along with the polished spokes, so we blacked the spokes out on the picture.
The idea was that the focus is more on the ovals and the three bars.

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Another option would have been a hex nut center lock, along with polished spokes.
I also thought about polishing on the supporting ribs around the center lock.
But the ribs don`t have a plain surface, it is rounded, so that may have created edges which are not very defined and not very perfect for the most detailed look we are striving for.

(picture is the standard accelerator, not the concave design)

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Birdcage

After tearing everything down it looked all good, not much of corrosion, good frame and nothing on the windshield frame.
The car came from Texas, so normally rust shouldn`t be the biggest issue.

But it wouldn`t be the first Texas-car / California-car to keep a surprise hidden.
This is what has been dismantled at CIC when they pulled the rocker-covers :


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Advantage of a Vette-Garage - luckily Josh already has a spare around in the shop.

So some process- / after- / pictures to follow soon.




.
 

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yeah only on the passenger side for some reason.

But the spare is already around and the birdcage will be completely restored in the end.

I have heard that - before the car came to me finally - in the shop it was nicknamed "Exxon Valdeze" : The motor had a leaky rear main seal and left a nice thick oil coat on the underside of the cage,
so there should be a good preservation on other areas :thumbsup:
 

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In Iowa I notice passenger sides often rust out first on cars and trucks. My theory is that there is more salt on the edges of the road. Don't know if that is true or not, but it is what I came up with to let my brain stop worrying about it.
The firewall is going to be slick. That will really change the look under there.
BTW, yea I gave that car the name Exxon valdeze back in the day when I was under it disconnecting stuff and was covered in fluids. That was a day I remember well because I questioned what I was doing over there. :laughing: it all works out in the end. I am glad to see that you are saving that car. It has been through a lot of transformations and it would be cool to see pictures as it has evolved.
You are probably pretty giddy about now seeing your baby progress.
 

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At least you didn`t need a creeper to get underneath the car and out of it , just easy slidin` !



I was also thinking about more salt on the right side of the drive lanes, now as you`re saying too, maybe the reason.
For its entire life probably the car was not only in the mild winter areas of the country.
Anyway once it is done, it will definitely be stored away in it`s future winters !
This year, very unusually, we did not have a real winter at all at my place, people were drivin their summer cars and sometimes even bikes, no snow or salt, very mild.


Firewall.... i don`t even know Josh` exact idea on it, but i am sure there is some magic going on...


Oh, and yes i am totally giddy about it now... !
Also, quite a while ago when i was driving the white Shark, i really miss it.
 

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Pipes

This is going to be my first ride with Sideys ever, i always had duals.


A while ago i was offered headers with merge collectors.

I was thinking a while and when i was desicion-ready for them, they weren`t available anymore.

Josh had them.



Those were the bad boys :


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From sources around the merge collectors have to be set up for the application usually.
Curious what they would have made for difference. I like the look though.

I also wonder what they do for the sound.
As they speed up the gas, maybe they make the car more quiet at part throttle, like it is at certain revs with long-tube-headers vs. stock headers .



This is from a write-up in a magazine :

".......
Dynatech doesn't claim its merge collectors to be a magic, out-of-the-box bolt-on. In fact, if a combination has been optimized with standard collectors, Dynatech cautions that it's possible to "overscavenge" the exhaust when switching to merge collectors. This is why the company suggests additional camshaft testing may be necessary to get the best results from a merge-type collector. While 20-plus-horsepower gains are common, it's also not unheard of for a merge collector to initially lose horsepower or torque if it upsets the balance between the camshaft timing and engine airflow. Stepping up to a merge collector is a process best carried out on an engine dyno. ......."
 
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