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Me and my father found this to be the safest method to jack the car:

put two jacks under the car at the factory jack spots (just in front of the door and just behind the door on the frame - look in your manual) and lift both sides simultaneously. It doesn`t matter if you lift the front or rear first, but don`t lift one side of the car at a time. This is because the frame is as soft as butter and bends a lot under jacking and we were afraid we`d somehow bend the birdcage or break something. Only lift 5 - 10 inches at a time and put jackstands under and lift the other end of the car. Use jackpads (they are called jack pads right?) or else you might scratch the paint or dent the frame. Always support the car with jack stands before you crawl under it. While cheap jackstands (~2 ton) are strong enough to support the car, stronger jack stands are much more stable. We have 3 tons now and they`re a lot bettter than the 1,5 tons we had before.

Never jack the car up under the crossmembers, you will dent them (this is why almost all C2s and C3s have dented front crossmembers). I recommend you to put a mechanical jack under the front crossmember when you have lifted the car and put it on jackstands. Hydraulic jacks will fall after a while - NEVER use them as jack stands. Be sure to put a piece of wood or a jack pad between the jack and frame and don`t lift the front end, just support it. The reason for this is because there is a lot of weight in front of where you should put the jackstands. And I don`t feel safe when there is many hundred unsupported pounds of metal flying over me.

We don`t but i`ve seen many others saying you have to open the hood and doors and remove the t-tops before jacking. If the frame has rust damage it might bend enough to break body panels.

And always pay attention. I managed to lower my car onto a jackstand I had forgotten to remove:spanked:. bent my rocker panel but no damages on the birdcage or body. Managed to fix the rocker panel and now you can`t tell it has been damaged. Felt like a total moron that day (and I was).


Good luck!
 

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The factory jack points just behind the front wheels are the best place to actually lift the car.

I found that jack stands work very well under the front sway bar mounts. Supports the front very well and they are out of the way of your work.

The frame is not as soft as butter. It can flex, but unless you have severe frame rot you're not going to destroy your car by jacking up the front end.

Not mentioned, but make sure you have the transmission in Park, E-brake engaged, and the rear wheels chocked.
 

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I agree with jacking under safe locations that give both safety and plenty of wiggle room with a good jack and 3 ton jack stands. Though not necessary I'd jack up both front and rear for maximum height cause you never know what other projects you'll start doing while doing this project:laughing::laughing: Good luck and be safe:thumbsup:
 

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The frame is not as soft as butter. It can flex, but unless you have severe frame rot you're not going to destroy your car by jacking up the front end.
When we sandblasted and painted the frame, you could see the whole thing bend when someone leaned on the rear end of the frame. And this frame was\is undamaged and only with light surface rust. But yes, you will probably not damage or destroy anything but it`s better to be safe than sorry...
 

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I usually start out with the smaller 2-ton jack stands, then switch to the 5-ton taller ones once the car is off the ground. This gets the car a couple feet off the floor, and makes it super easy to remove the control arms. It also makes it easier to clean and inspect the underside of the car.

If you are doing the ball joints, you might as well do the bushings. If you are doing the bushings, you might as well clean and re-paint the control arms. While you have the hubs off, you might as well replace the bearings. If you have the control arms off, you might as well do the tie rods. If you are doing the tire rods, you might as well do the drag link. If you are doing the drag link, you might as well do the steering box. This is a good time to go ahead and replace the springs and get some new shocks too...

This is why you might as well get the car up as high as you can.


I bought a full front and rear suspension re-build kit last fall.

While I had the car up, I started cleaning and looking for other items that need attention. This lead to a new mini starter. I am removing my mechanical fan, I am relocating my oil pressure tap, I am replacing my header gaskets, and I am adjusting my clutch. While I was there, I cleaned up the calipers and re-painted them, I replaced alll of the brake lines, clips, and e-brake clips. I scraped, cleaned, and re-painted the frame rails and cross members just to make them look better. I also cleaned the transmission and re-tightened all the bolts on it. I drilled out the rivets on the original rotors and replaced all 4.

It is a terrible disease, this "While I'm At It", but it is also a lot of fun.

Enjoy!
 

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When we sandblasted and painted the frame, you could see the whole thing bend when someone leaned on the rear end of the frame. And this frame was\is undamaged and only with light surface rust. But yes, you will probably not damage or destroy anything but it`s better to be safe than sorry...
A fullsize chevy truck frame from that era will flex in a similar fashion.

Most people don't realize how fluid a stock chassis really is. Even chassis that are considered race proven or heavy duty.
 

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I always jack at the front crossmember and under the spring perch on the rear end. Jack stand placement varies based on what I'm working on or how long it will be on jacks. I love my 12 ton stands and don't even feel comfortable with it on the 3 ton stands any more. The footprint on the 12 ton stands is about 12" x 12" and they weigh a good 30 lbs each. Their lowest setting puts the car high enough to roll around underneath comfortably on a creeper.

you can see that the 12 ton stands dwarf the 3 tons:
 
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