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I modified my virgin Van Steel HD offset trailing arms today to use Johnny joints rather than urethane bushings for my 6 link install.

I'll link to the pics when they get approved.


Can I donate 25 bucks and be able to attach jpeg files?

Tomorrw it's up on the jack stands and out with the old 4 speed, Driveshaft, Pumpkin and those Silly 3" Half Shafts and TRAILING ARMS.


The Plasma cutter and Sawsall are ready :partyon:
 

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pics pics!!! Have you considered making it a floater w/ toe control rods or dual camber rods??? ;) The johhny joint is the key to that, along with a greased up frame bolt w/ maybe some harmonica seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pics...




 

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I have a similar setup in a factory t-arm (Global West).....mine have a larger center hole and a spacer on each side (looks like an upsides down top hat) that slips in with a larger side surface....I ran the Guldstrand bushing for years and found as the ends of the bushings wear the whole thing became loose.....
...redvetracr
 

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installing them on a stock arm sure is easire, damn you had to behead the whole arm LOL
 

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I have a similar setup in a factory t-arm (Global West).....mine have a larger center hole and a spacer on each side (looks like an upsides down top hat) that slips in with a larger side surface....I ran the Guldstrand bushing for years and found as the ends of the bushings wear the whole thing became loose.....
...redvetracr
That's a good Idea... I've got one hole that is elongated a bit. I'll prolly just weld a washer on it... :thumbsup:
 

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installing them on a stock arm sure is easire, damn you had to behead the whole arm LOL
Just following your Pic... It only took about an hour.... It took longer to get the welder out than to do the work.

We've talked about toe control rods... I'm gonna save that for a future upgrade... :thud:

The whole rear end and driver side trailing arm were out in about a hour. I spend 2 more hours getting the passenger side trailing arm bolt out. I ended up cutting off the head with the pasma cutter and then removing the shims and cutting the bolt with the sawsall on the inside...

Spent the rest of the afternoon CLEANING. No rust in the kickup or the pocket.

Oh yeah I just pulled of the diff crossmenber from the mounts... I put the bolts in a few threads to hold it and I'm glad I did !! I popped the diff x member with the crowbar and it literally fell off...


:WTF
 

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ok this might be a stupid question but what is the purpose to that change?
I know it for a 6 links but do anybody have pics of what youre doing?
I got to translate to french so pics helps me a lot. lol
 

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installing them on a stock arm sure is easire, damn you had to behead the whole arm LOL
So I'm toying with the idea of using a Johhny Joint for my TA's (building a Giovanni Inspired 6-Link),
will a 2" Johnny Joint press into a stock TA assy?

EDIT: Okay, I found a thread on Vette Mod.com that shows the process. Bust out the 2" hole saw.......

http://www.-------------/forum/showthread.php?t=2315&highlight=Johnny+Joints

EDIT: Don't know why but this forum system seems to scrub the (name of a website related to corvettes and modification!) from the URL:WTF

Am I missing something here about corvette forum ediquette, or was there some big fallout between this forum and the one I can't talk about?:huh:
 

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MetalKid -- That's the post I Tap-Danced around :cheers:

Did exactly that - just can't find my pics to post :(

I did need longer bolts -

Cheers - Jim
 

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Used a Greaseable Bolt. I had to google a lot to find one long enough. The Johnny Joint fits perfectly in the TA - but the bolt provided is a little short and needed to source another.
I'm in the final days prior to deployment - if I have time I'll get a pic for you and the details.

Cheers - Jim
 

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:thumbsup:The deed is done!

Ordered a pair of 2" Johnny Joints, externally greasable w/o the bolt, (since it's too short anyway).


Now I gotta find my 2" hole saw......:thud:
 
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