Junkman, help! [oil pressure sending unit]
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If you have small hands watch this.
If you have a temper don't try this. :laughing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSVko7B5zNM
If you have a temper don't try this. :laughing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSVko7B5zNM
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30,448 Posts
I have yet to meet ANYONE who could do it this way. The last guy on the forum who claimed that he did it in 15 minutes was proven to be a fraud. You couldn't pay me to try and do it this way. There are just too many things that could go wrong and you will end up creating more issues instead if just doing it the right way.
As for the link, it's been a sticky at the top of this forum for years.
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I found that video and another similar video on YouTube. Maybe my small hands helped, maybe the fact that I'm left-handed helped, I dunno, but it worked! Granted it took me about an hour and it was a PITA, but it does work! Probably what was more a PITA was getting that dam vacuum hose back in place!
Job done. Gauge working! Yaay!
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Thanks Junkman. I found it there after I sent that message. Forgot to retract it. Sometimes it's always right in front of you!
Maybe my small hands helped, maybe the fact that I'm left-handed helped, I dunno, but it can be done without removing the intake. Granted it took me about an hour and it wasn't easy. Probably what was more a PITA was getting that dam vacuum hose back in place that runs along the top. DEAD in the way!
Job done. Gauge working! Yaay!
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So the next time I see someone say that they can do it in 10 minutes, you can join me in the chorus of BS calls that I call out. You now know first hand that there is no way that you can do that in 5, 10 or 15 minutes, even if you know exactly what to do. A few folks have posted their 5 minute times and I have yet to get any one of then to make a video. Reality is, is is a major bitch to do it that way. Hell, it's a bitch to get that tiny hose put back on with the manifold removed!
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Whatever you do please don't say you fixed it with the shortcut method. The last time someone did that it took two weeks for the blood vessel in junk's forehead to heal.
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:rolling: :rolling:
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Junkman, thank you so much for this write up. Do you or anybody else have a copy with the pictures still. I need to do this and would love to see what you are talking about. Thanks
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I am interested also.i want to change my sending unit.Any helps?
Sent from my itel A571W using Tapatalk
Sent from my itel A571W using Tapatalk
I survived taking the cheap way out, but it required lots of weird tools, extensions, electrical tape, etc. The GM mechanic's way requires at least 9 gaskets, but makes it much more accessible. I read of still another avenue, of sawing the firewall overhang out to access it, then glassing it back in. As long as you are in there, though, it's a good idea to pre-emptively replace the "passenger side secondary air injection check valve" because they fail eventually, are cheap to replace, and require the same removal of the top of the intake manifold. Although they call it the passenger side valve, it definately is on the driver's side!
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Another C5 issue that is common, they make a relocation kit to move the oil pressure sensor to make more accessible. Also read the drill the hole in the cowling trick while researching the 10 common problems with C5’s.
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I had the oil pressure sensor replaced and it stayed at 300 for 2 days,then it went went to600. Then a few days later it went to zero. the dash said check engine. The car runs great. The oil is clean and up to line. the car is not running hot. Needless to say I shut it down. How can I Find out watszz up?
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whoever replaced the sending unit might have damaged the part internals by over torquing the part upon installation , or incorrectly removing or installing the lead wires. typically failure readings are either 130 or zero, with 130 being the most common failure reading. I assume 300 and 600 only a spelling error.
I will reserve my thoughts about drilling a hole in the body to change the sending unit.
My cars limited space in that area required removing the manifold, even if I had drilled a hole. manifold removal wasn't difficult , and allowed me to clean the air path components and do some general clean up while I had the stuff apart.
My main difficulty was not being experienced with aged plastic fasteners and I broke the critical vacuum connector behind the manifold , don't do that. I also incorrectly figured that any hose that couldn't handle rough treatment was better replaced on my used car, and that bit of stupidity cost me eighty bucks to learn the proper care and disassembly of old parts.
I already had a bunch of swivels and socket extenders, but needed a very small additional swivel for the 8mm manifold bolts.
Since the car was bought used, I decided to replace the manifold gaskets, but they could have been reused , they are of a resilient material, but I did notice someone had omitted installing the water intrusion barriers under the manifold, which I didn't even known about until I found some puzzling foam blocks in the gasket set that I had to research to figure out.
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