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Discussion Starter #1
What size is necessary for removal of the brake lines on my 79 Corvette? And are they metric or Sae? Also does anyone know what the name is of the wrenches that (think it is Sears brand) that are designed to grab the flat part of a fastener and not the edges like a conventional wrench? :spanked:
 

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DC PIT CREW BOSS
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They should be SAE. Best way to remove them is with a flare nut wrench. I looks like a box end wrench with the end cut out to slip over the brake line

 

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Snap-on's "Flank Drive" was the first to grab the nut away from the corners. Stanley and others make them now. What you are looking for are wrenches that have a distinct "semi-circle" right at the corners of the hex. The corner of the nut fits in the recess and doesn't touch the wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just found some of those snap on tools on e-bay. They are not cheap. Have the small set of sockets from Sears . Think they are named "grabbers". They do not hit on the corners of a fastener like a conventional socket. Did not realize that Snap on had done that first. There is a distint radius and not like a conventional wrench. Thanks for that thread. Nice Verty you have there. Liked my three chromeys but it was time to go on to another year model. My 75 has a large wooden wheel in it and the 79 has smaller wheel. I got used to the smaller wheel after a while. Had forgotten how big those wheels were in the 68 roadster I had then. They are still eye candy like they were then. Just need the size of wrench needed to take off the brake lines so I can change my crossover line to the proportional valve. Gotta change the front bearings so I figure I just as soon take the calipers off and rebleed the system while I am doing that. I have new front rotors also so just as soon put them on there also. Gonna take the old rotors and have them turned and miked for the 75 since she is next in line for rotors and brakes. Too much going on with the 79 to do much on her right now. But gotta get er done ! Lol
 

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Tubing nut size is 3/8" and the rubber hose is 5/8". I just checked one of the books I have. Don't sue me if the wrenches you buy are the wrong size based on what the book said. You're gonna be under there enough, why not check the sizes first?

Thanks for the thumbs up. My car has a 13.75" OD steering wheel. The power steering units are in my shirt sleeves. K-turns are fun, but it scoots from lane-to-lane with the small wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes you were right about the sizes and got them puppies in yesterday and they are a perfect fit. And they are SAE by the way. From Performance tool in Washington. Like almost 15 bucks for the set of three. Not bad. Now to find some solvent to do the front bearings. Did you do yours or replaced with the new kind? Thanks for the numbers on those wrenches. :D
 

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Corvette7579 said:
Now to find some solvent to do the front bearings. Did you do yours or replaced with the new kind? Thanks for the numbers on those wrenches. :D
I've been lucky in the bearing department, I haven't had to mess with the front ones and I've been using a greaser on the rears. So far so good. Some one here must know the best way to clean up the spindles and hubs. As far as the wrench sizes, that was just reading someone else's words in a book. Good luck (and good results) on your project. Be careful of the paint with the brake fluid when you're doing that job.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was told Solvent, but there has to be a substitute solvent I can use. That stuff is almost as expensive as gasoline. I have diesel fuel but do not know. I was wandering could you tell me where I could get the greaser for the rear? I had a noise for a while in the rear end and come to find out the rear end (thinking the rear axles were bad, not) was low on oil so I popped in and out of the local dealership and got some the two part gear oil for the rear end. Then did circles left then right to be sure adequate amounts of gear oil were in the grear box. The noise stopped immediately. I wish the climate was dry like you guys but unfortunately I am stuck in a Rust Haven. Everything rust here like crazy and aluminum is not much better. It anodizes and forms aluminum balls on things. Always gotta keep on top of things here. Hard on distributor caps also. But chrome it hates. Just finished cleaning the wires with sos and chrome cleaner. Found some spray on stuff that works well but you still gotta hand detail them first or you will never ever get them clean. Cannot wait until the year 2009 to see if GM is gonna produce that Stingray in retro . Lol:D
 

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The tool is called a Rear Wheel Bearing Greaser. It's in the Mid America catalog and is about $17. You disconnect the half shaft at the spindle flange, remove the spindle nut, remove the flange and slide the donut-shaped greaser over the spindle shaft. Put the nut back on to hold the greaser in place and pump grease into the inboard bearing through the zerk fitting on the tool. This only greases the inboard bearing, but it's the one that generally fails.

A little kerosene works as a degreaser and it's not a dangerous as gasoline.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will have to get me one then. Thanks for all the advice and the instructions. Will let you know what I came up with. I always saw them using gas around here to do bearings or diesel. The only other thing I have is thinner or denatured alcohol. We are gonna get rain for the next three days according to the weather girls and boys. Geeezz! When will this water factor cease. Hope this planet does not end up like Water World. Won't be a field of dreams if that happens. Fingers crossed wishing all the earthly problems would go away so we can all get back to doing what is living and not bustin bunns to fix all we own. Oh well, there is tomorrow. Gonna see if I can get me one of them things there fur her rear bearings. :smack :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got the wrenches in Torch and they fit perfect. SAE they were for sure and not metric. Now gotta get er done. :excited:
 
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