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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, Is there any advise or links available about repairing rusty rivets on the front of a shark? Bumps are beginning to appear where the rivets that support the front fiberglass to the frame have rusted. I am looking for some direction before I start digging, grinding and drilling where I shouldn't. Any guidence would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all those who keep this site a great source of information.
 

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In the past many opinions stated, from grinding them off smooth, to drilling them out from under, then dropping the steel plate then getting them out from under the bonding strip/etc....then using super epoxy to glue it to the glass , lotsa work....

due to two accidents, one 9 years ago hitting a Florida short/small deer at night right into the two headlight assys, square up....busted hell outta them, so I went to Ecklers large square bulb trays/sugar scoops....simple enough....saved tons of unreliable operational crap as I was on my 2nd set of witches hats allready....so many rivits were ground down when that happened....never to reappear....

then just had a decent, not beautiful but just 20-20 paint job after putting the camaro bulbs in those scoops, filling in the tops about 1/2 way forward....that was on the ground running a total of 2 WEEKS, before a Verizon truck backed into the front driver's bumper, and mess it up but good....

anyway, I ground down ALL the rivits, and fixed it yet again....never did repaint it....close to a year now....time, effort, MONEY, attitude, every damn time I get a 1/2 way decent paint job.....some damn off the wall thing happens and it's not so pretty anymore.....been that way for 45 years now....
 

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If you go through the surface and fill chances are good you'll have shrinkage in the future.
I think the best way, the hardest also, is to remove the support and bonding strip. Then remove the aluminum rivets and use either a new support bent up to replace the bonding strip or find a NOS strip. That is what I did.






 

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Gary, any experiences with just grinding/smoothing down the bulges??

so far I have had fair success with it...but down the road a bit, I would love to repaint this car...and so, is it worth the busting effort to redo it your way?? any clue as to success rate with my lazy method so far??

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. I'm glad I asked because my unexperienced thinking was that I would drill the rivets from the top and replace them, then glass and fill accordingly. However I'm sure replacing the support and bonding strip is the right way to go. As shown by the pics of my 73's body renovation (in my photos) I'm not afraid to take the hard road to do it right the first time. By the way the 73 should be in color in a week or so. It will be electron blue which isn't too far off of the original Dark Blue Metallic . As time permitted I've been working on the body restoration for about 8 months now. I may do a body off of on the 72 but that remains to be seen. I'm not going to start the 72 until I get the 73 back together. I've read many of both of your posts and appreciate all the knowledge you share. I wish I saw GTR199's techical posts (rear end and trailing arms) before I took on those jobs on my 73. I asked alot of questions on this forum and got great explicit directions (strider being a main contributer) but the pics would have helped even more. Thanks again, DC and it's members are second to none :partyon:
 

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I think if it was me I would replace it with new mount and bonding strip and just bond it in without the rivets, Fill with cathair and refinish, no shrinkage, no worries with the rivets ever coming thru again.
The late C3s are bonded in with no rivets.
 

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The rivets were last used in 72. Then the support was rebent to rmove the gap for the bonding strip. They were bonded on the nose and usually held up. I still didn't glue mine in yet. :lookinup: I have the 3M part number of the adhesive to use in my files, if needed I'll look it up.

Gene, I'm not a body expert like someone like Lars but I elected to chisel out the support rather then drill or grind them out. I'vee seen guys use SS flat heads but I rather use the adhesive.
My 72 is just starting to show too. This has the original paint and the car was always in a garage. The aluminum breaks down over time.
 

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Use the Cat Hair and the right resin for the Glass or stuff the front end is made with, fill and sand
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Adhesive it is!!!!

Well it sounds unanimous and I've been convinced to use adhesive instead of rivets. I just went through this on my 73 but as stated above 73's didn't have rivets so I just cleaned the affected area thoroughly and used adhesive to attach the fiberglass to the support. I forget the name of the product I used but it was not a 3M product. It was a 2 part adhesive suggested to me by a trustworthy house of colors retailer. I completed it about 3 months ago but its holding. GTR1999 if it's not too much trouble, next time your looking through your files, could you get the 3M part number? I would be much more comfortable using it. I plan on filling any holes left by this repair with fiberglass and resin then applying a fiberglass sealer/primer. In my misspent youth I used to glass and repair surfboards so I'm pretty familiar with the itchy art of fiberglass craftsmanship. I just went through the process of grinding all the seams on my 73 and refilled them with fiberglass as seen in the photo below. The front fender has been fiberglassed and the rear quarter has been ground. Thanks again, I'll keep checking back for more advise.




Ready for Primer.

 
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