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ok it's been long enough for this awesome thread not to be bumped so here goes
When not using wedges, does that mean cutting the rubber down already on the spring , then installing metal retainer or popping retainer off and installing it back in without it?
 

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I'm lowering my 92 this coming week. I'll take pics and add any input I can if I feel it can add to the thread.
 

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DC Pit Crew Boss
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Discussion Starter #64
ok it's been long enough for this awesome thread not to be bumped so here goes
When not using wedges, does that mean cutting the rubber down already on the spring , then installing metal retainer or popping retainer off and installing it back in without it?
You can do either. Either cut the rubber and wedge off then re-install the retainer or just take the wedge off and leave the rubber and re-install the retainer. I suggest that you place some kind of wedge on the spring in order to keep the intended function of the wedge. The wedge is supposed to act as a pivot point for the spring to move back and forth on, without the wedge the pivot point is lost.
 

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I have had the lowering kit sitting in my garage for waaaay too long. I have heard that the car needs to be at least 20 inches in the air in order to do this. This true?
 

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Well, I spread lowering mine over two days. Mostly to let the epoxy cure on the wedges.

A few things I ran in to, that should probably be very clearly stated are:

1. Give the car time to settle. The front settles some, but the back settles a lot. When you upset and remove the bushings in the back, they take more time to recontour themselves to the seat they're in. So, settling took longer in the back. In the front, a few bounces by hand and it hasn't moved really at all.

2. I have a non Z51 car...base suspension. I understand from reading that Z51's will get you a little lower with probably identical settings as I'm listing here.

I shaved the peak of the wedge down 1/16, and I cut the outer edge bushings of the leaf in half. With that combination I'm at 26 3/16's in front. With the nuts on the long bolts in the rear 1/2 from the bottom, the rear of my car settled to 26 3/16's. So right now I'm dead even.

3. I've read about how the wedge needs to be used to maintain proper function of the spring. I fail to see how this is the case. The top of the stock bushing is flat. Using a peaked wedge gives the lower control arm more leverage over the outer spring, essentially making the spring softer. I'd prefer a flat piece of polyurethane. I wouldn't hesitate to shave off the peak of the wedge for additional lowering..hence why I did it. I shaved the top of the spring clean as well and mated the wedge to it.

4. I fail to see how doing the rear bolts without removing the rear wheel is feasible because you need to hold the top of the bolt to keep it from spinning when you initially take the stuff apart. Once you've got it together with the new stuff though with the long bolt in, adjustments can be made by just putting a wratchet on the bottom nut and turning. The top won't spin, and you can literally just adjust it while the car is sitting on the ground/wheels on.

5. Lastly, accessing the front spring aluminum bracket bolt heads to keep them from spinning. Mine were visible right beneath the power steering reservoir and I used two long extensions, a universal, and a 13mm to hold them in place.

On the driver side I used a 13 wrench and accessed the front one by sitting in the driver wheel well and reaching it just behind where the outer tie rod meets the inner tie rod or rack assembly. Right by the boot. For the back bolt I had to get under the car and reach up between the oil pan and the frame and kind of reach up in there guessing about where it is. With a 13mm wrench you can get on it pretty easy. The driver side took me a minute to figure out....lol.



So, that's my contribution of what I felt the two main "lowering" stickied threads were missing or not stating in clear language that caused me to pause a tad.
 

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On the invisable bolts that gives everybody a hard time, after spending no lie 1 and 1/2 hours searching, I ended up just giving up on finding them and took some needle nose pliers and held it from the bottom being careful not to damage the threads. Worked out much better for me and hopefully will for others.
 

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Before and after. Car is sitting at 26 3/16's in the rear and 26 1/16 in front. This is the look of the car with the settings I described in my post above. Can you say WAY BETTER!!!

 

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1 1/2 hours searching...are you serious?
well after roping the radiator hose out of my way, then bout 20minutes trying the weird yoga positions and 10 minutes scratching my head, this went on several times so yeah 1 1/2 hrs, but I do have to say it was well worth it and it looks 100 % better.
btw your car looks killer, I'm restoring a white vette and I have to say that being a black car fanatic after all these years I think I might have seen the white light.:cheers:
 

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Radiator hose? You must have a different year than me, that must be why. My setup didn't come close to any rad hoses. I was wondering, cause I found the bolts fairly quick on mine.

I agree with you on the white thing. I've sometimes thought cars that were done right and white had a "cleanliness" about them, but I've always been visually attracted to darker cars. Its growin on me though. I'm only 1 month into ownership and got wheels and lowered so far...just gotta keep it goin.

Wait until I fabricate my one off carbon fiber low profile rear deck spoiler.... :partyon: Then I'll be settin somethin off.
 

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Oh man...all this Corvette love....by all means, let me post a few more :laughing:

Sorry about the poor quality pics...my SLR broke and I'm temporarily shooting with a basic point and shoot. Its got some serious limitations versus what I'm used to. Ya'll like my house...lol? I landed some serious square footage for the cash...:smack

I'll be tuckin the exhaust up a bit more and starting on my rear deck spoiler soon outa carbon.





 

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I have had the lowering kit sitting in my garage for waaaay too long. I have heard that the car needs to be at least 20 inches in the air in order to do this. This true?
How ever tall my jack stands were was high enough to do mine :D
 

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Before and after. Car is sitting at 26 3/16's in the rear and 26 1/16 in front. This is the look of the car with the settings I described in my post above. Can you say WAY BETTER!!!

That does look really good . How does it ride being lowered with the base suspension ?
 

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The ride didn't change too much. The biggest improvement I've noticed is it doesn't float quite as much and follows the contours of the road better. Overall though, harshness only went up slightly, along with a little more steering effort.

If anyone is worried about sacrificing ride quality by lowering their car, you can definitely handle it. Plus the improvement in appearance is so worth it. Plus, I'm driving around the hills of PA and not scraping lips and underbody, so if I can do it anyone should be able to.
 

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Reviving this thread a little in search of some help. I just jacked my '94 up and got the drivers side tire off to take a look at the job ahead. Guys, I hope someone can answer this...from what I see, the spring has the two brackets holding it on...problem is, on my car, the rubber on top of the spring (spring to body) seems to only be about 1/2" thick. Rubber on bottom (spring to bracket) is only about 1/4" thick. Seems like a lot of you guys are cutting like an inch of rubber out, and my car just doesn't have that. I'm 100% positive the car has never been lowered (see pics, the fender gap is horrible) so I'm just wondering if the newer LT1 cars are different than what some of you have posted? Thanks for any help you can be!
 

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DC Pit Crew Boss
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Discussion Starter #80
Someone correct me if i'm wrong, as it's been a while, but I believe the rubber on your vette shouldn't matter as much because you have to actually cut the aluminum bracket to lower it. You can also trim the rubber but the aluminum bracket should be trimmed as well.
 
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