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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone installed the lowerkit from vette brakes?

Have on on the way and wanted some input...
 

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DC Crew
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ChiMan said:
Anyone installed the lowerkit from vette brakes?

Have on on the way and wanted some input...
Nope. I put the longer bolts in the back, and cut the bump-stop in the front down to 1/8th inch.

That dropped it 1" in front, and 1" in back .... but I will go lower in the future by installing front wedges, and lowering the back further with the bolts. Need coil-overs first!
 

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El Teafive
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Re: Re: Lowering C4

Patrick96LT4 said:
Nope. I put the longer bolts in the back, and cut the bump-stop in the front down to 1/8th inch.

That dropped it 1" in front, and 1" in back .... but I will go lower in the future by installing front wedges, and lowering the back further with the bolts. Need coil-overs first!
if you get coil overs then the Wedges are worthless..

I have jsut the wedges on the front, it is also a new spring and I cannot tell if it lowered too much..

I do know that the Front Spring was a PITA to pull, but I was doing lower balljoints at the same time
 

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I got a 5/8" drop in front. Whoopdee fukn doo.

Took 4.5 hours on the front. The rear is a breeze, you don't even have to pull the wheels off.
 

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I bought the front/rear lowering kit from MAD and after dropping the rear 1 1/4" she looked so fine (whoa, the tires now actually fit in the wheel wells) I stopped there. Also it seems to handle better and hookup at the strip is improved too.

I suggest you first measure from the center of each wheel well to the pavement (while on flat pavement of course) and drop the rear an inch or so. Then drive the car around the block to allow the chassis to settle and check it out for looks.

Then drop the front if you feel the need.

Finally get a 4-wheel alignment.
 

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The kit is hard to install, and for the amount of lowering is just not worth the effort....mine came from Mid America....and is setting on my to do shelve.....
No way...
tony
 

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Once again, "Hawaiian Punch"
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Heres a "copy and Paste" instructions that I had writing out for a fellow member on another forum about a year ago, and did the same just recently for another member about 2 weeks ago also on a different forum.
So here you go, and I hope this will help you out........


It's so easy to do! Infact, the hardest thing to do is to cut the rubber off the spring.. that stuff on there is tuff!!
Unbolt the outer tie rod & sway bar, on both sides, losen the spring retainers which is holding the leaf spring to the frame of the car.
On either side that you what to start on first, get a block of wood ( 2 by 4 ) and a small floor jack will be fine, put the wood along with the jack under the spring closest to the a-arm, with out it being ON the a-arm it's self and slowly jack the spring up untill it's not resting on the lower a-arm ( about a 1/4 to an 1/2 inch off ) Disconect the ABS sensor thats located on the brake assembly, thats very important for you to do so!! ( if yours has one) remove the 2 bolts that are holding the shocks to the lower a-arm (they're located near the spring in the lower a-arm), unbolt the lower ball joint stud nut, you can use a two jaw puller or what I did was unscrew the nut untill it covered the end of the stud and with a hammer, tap on the top of the nut and not that hard or you'll ruin either the nut it's self or the stud or both. (try using a hard rubber mallet first)
Before doing this, find something to put under the wheel hub.. another block of wood would be fine just to stabilize it and it should come free with no problem!!
repeat this on the other side and let the presure off from the 2 by 4 and jack free and you should be able to slide the spring out from either side after you pull back at the wheel hub away little, the spring will slide out from the lower a-arm.
It will not come out all the way if the car is not jacked up high enough and it does not have to!! you just need to be able to slide the spring far enough to be able to reach the rubber mounts.
With a steak knife or I prefered a hack saw blade, saw off the rubber mounts and try not to cut into the spring it's self... take your time, don't rush!!.
Do this on both sides.
(Helpfull hint: while cutting the rubber off, lift up on the side that you started cutting at, at the same time you cutting away, the reason is that if you dont do this, the rubber will grab onto the knife/sawblade and you'll make very slow progress if any at all. The first side that I did without doing this took me about an hr and a half to cut, untill I lifted the rubber up off the sliding blade, the othe side took 10 min to complete the job, big difference.)
This will give you the drop that your, I think looking for!!!
The wheels will be, depending on what size rims you've got, if your running stock 17's will be about an 1 inch to an 1 1/4 from the fender wells, and NO!! THEY WILL NOT RUB!!
You will have to of course hopefully with out saying, take the wheels off to do this job, and the ride is fine, just a little more stiff, and I do mean, A LITTLE!!
I hope this helps Aloha.

 
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