Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 20 of 241 Posts

·
The Video Man
Joined
·
3,229 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a picture by picture crash course in lowering the front of your C5 yourself. These steps are necessary to cut the front bushings or to remove the lowering bolt all together.

-Note- before hand you will need to make some ramps that are at least 3" tall so that you can remove your jack from under your car once it is lowered.

The first two pics show what the suspension looks like before anything is done.



At this point I jacked up the suspension so that I could unbolt and disconnect the upper a-arm

This pic shows after the a-arm has been disconnected and the suspension has been lowered down again.

Then unbolt the lower part of the shocks (2 bolts) and you will need a deep socket wrench to reach the bottom of each of the bolts.

Then disconnect the sway bar (next 2 pics)



Loosen the top part of the sway bar bolts to swing the bolt out of the bottom part (next 2 pics)



Finally now you can remove the lowering bolt or raise it to its highest point to cut the bushings. It has a reverse style thread pattern, so to lower the car rotate it counterclockwise. (Note to remove the bolt you may have to jack up the leaf spring to gain clearance)

(Be careful not to damage the leaf spring by using a small piece of wood to protect it)

When putting everything back together, reverse the pattern that was used to take it apart. To reconnect the top A-arm use an allen wrench when tightening the bolt to keep it from just spinning.

Optional for removing the shock absorber totally


If you can do the front, the rear is so easy I won't even have to explain it. (I also forgot to take pics :rolleyes: ) I did mine with some longer bolts than stock to get a 2.5-3" drop in the rear.


lowered pics
Bigger Here



***New*** Lowered With bolts in front completely removed.....



***Newer*** New I-Forged wheels. I didn't have to make one adjustment to the suspension. In Fact I found out that even though the new wheels are 18/19's where the stock were 17/18's, that the new wheels are the same height as the stock wheels. This is due to lower profile tires in both the front and rear of the car.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,466 Posts
Great write up and detailed pics!

Glad you remembered to add the part about lowering your car onto ramps afterword so that you can remove the jack....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Nice write up and pics!!!! I removed my adjusters a week ago.A lil disappointed.Only went down around 1/4" more.With the adjusters out it's a lot more noisier(creeks and thumps over bumps).I really wouldn't recomend this to anyone to get your car any lower.Going with coilovers this winter and replacing the rubber bushings with poly ones.
 

·
Once again, "Hawaiian Punch"
Joined
·
1,265 Posts
Just for your info gang, that screw you see there in the leaf spring can be removed and your car will drop more because theres a rubber pad thats connected with it, if you choose to slam your car, take the center brackets that hold the spring onto the frame of the car off, pull the spring out to either side, then remove those rubber pads on top of the spring from each side of the spring, put everything back together and you'll get an ultra slammed look. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Black 08, A&A TI supercharger. Kooks headers. CCW wheels. Much more
Joined
·
12,666 Posts
SlammedVette said:


This is after the adjusters were removed.Still not low enough!!!!
What size wheels and tires are those motorsports?19 front 20 rear?They look nice.I have plain old chrome zo6 rims for now.I would like 19 front 20 rear sometime next year.As my car sits right now,i can slide one finger between the fender and tire,on all 4 corners,and the rocker panels have about 3 " to the ground.I'll try to get some current pics tomorrow at the parade,my gallery is old,and the car is a hair lower now.
I also removed the bolts/adjusters.....i also did something else.
If you look at picture #8,follow the spring toward the oil pan,you can see the bottom half of the spring bracket.(one on each side of coarse).
I removed the bracket,and removed 75% of the rubber from the top of the spring,and glued it to the rubber thats already on the lower half of the spring,then re-installed the bracket(s).This got me were i wanted to be.
Before i glued the rubber together,(didn't want to bend the bracket),i drilled a small hole thru the two pieces and stuck a pin to keep the two rubber pieces from seperating,i doubt it would have,but i went for the overkill.At this point is when i realized that theres not enough threads on the tie-rod to get an alignment.I made a grade 8 threaded coupler to work for mine,but theres companys that sell bump-steer kits and extended tie-rod ends for this purpoe.The only other option,is coil-overs..I had to cut my air dam in half (side to side),and even now,the air-dam rides about 1 1/2" off the ground,good thing it's on a hinge,i scrape that thing everywere,2 1/2 years,same air-dam/spoiler.
Good luck..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Yep they are 19/20 combo!!!! I had 18" CCW's before.I sort of miss the 335's on the rear.The 305's are big,but not enough.That's a good idea about the spring mounts.I'm going with Rippie coilovers,VB ploy bushings,LAPD 3/8" backbone,and a Baer bump steer kit.My suspension should be good then.Post some pics of yours!!! Mine seemed lower with my 18's. Will be about an inch lower when all the new stuff goes on.My front fender will be at 24.5" to the edge .At 25.25 now.
 

·
Registered
Black 08, A&A TI supercharger. Kooks headers. CCW wheels. Much more
Joined
·
12,666 Posts
I'll try to get some later today,i'm not going to the parade as it's pouring outside right now,as a matter of fact,i should be leaving right about now.Oh well..


Heres a pic of ALLKARs ride,19/20 combo with coil overs.Is this how low you want to go?I talked with him a couple times,my car is 1" higher from the ground to the top of the fender lips than his.I could maybe go down another 1/2" inch,thats it without the coilovers.

I need the 19/20s to fill in the finger gap i have now.i would run a nitto 30 series tire on front and rear..
I'll go take some pics later when it clears up.I won't be able to post them until later,you'll probably be asleep by then.

That suspension combo you listed sounds choice.
:thumbsup:

The backbone is a good idea too,do you road race?

EDIT...sorry dude,i forgot to post the pic..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Yep it's ALLKAR that turned me on to the coilovers!!! He recomended the Rippie ones. Don't take it to autocross events.I like ripping down twisties,so I want it to handle awesome.Like having Porsches try to keep up or guys in crotch rocket that think they are Rossi or Duhamel !!!!! I'll post pics as I'm installing all the parts.Sure wish I was on the Island and could drive my car all the time.Snowed here Friday then rained all day yesterday.Got to love Chicago winter.Probably be 75 by the end of the week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Since you guys seem to have done this quite a bit, I had a question. I am in the process of lowering my '04 Z06. I didn't replace the back bolts and just adjusted them down to two threads. I also don't want to replace the front bolts, but I have no idea how far or how many threads should be showing to compensate for the amount I have lowered in the back. Any words of advice?

Thanks in advance,

Rob
 

·
...twisting your mind and smashing your dreams.
Joined
·
9,389 Posts
rkruciak said:
Since you guys seem to have done this quite a bit, I had a question. I am in the process of lowering my '04 Z06. I didn't replace the back bolts and just adjusted them down to two threads. I also don't want to replace the front bolts, but I have no idea how far or how many threads should be showing to compensate for the amount I have lowered in the back. Any words of advice?

Thanks in advance,

Rob
I left 3 threads on the front, and as for the back, get the bolts, it doesn't take any longer to drop it on the stock ones than it will to install new longer bolts. And trust me, you WILL end up with them eventually anyway. My car screamed "lower the back more" after I lowered it only on the stock setup, the way it sits now is the way it should, and only possible with replaced bolts.:)



and by the way, be careful spending too much time talking to hawaii 5-lo, he's dangerous, Todd's the one that got me infected with the ultra low bug in the first place:D
never too low, I'm just gettin started:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Sheriff,

Thanks for the quick reply. However, I'm not sure what you mean by three threads on the front. I don't want to sound too much like I don't know what I am doing here if I hadn't already, but based on what I am seeing, as it rotate the bolt counterclockwise, the bolt rotates up eventually tightening up because it is hitting the bushings. You think I should stop there? Sorry for all the detailed questions, but I really want to at least get the front lowered the right way the first time without hackin anything.

Thank you,

Rob
 

·
...twisting your mind and smashing your dreams.
Joined
·
9,389 Posts
You know what man, I'm an idiot!:rolleyes: In the front I tightened them until they stopped, then just backed em off a half a turn or two. It was the back that I had originally left 3 threads. See, you know more than you think! My bad, sorry about that. Two many exhaust fumes and g-forces:D :laughing:

If you do end up getting longer bolts, it's a little more "adjust til it's right". With the stock rear bolts, theres enough of a gap left (between wheel and fender) that you won't notice if its uneven from side to side (an eighth of an inch or two), but when you close that gap, it becomes a litlle more noticable, and then it's just little adjustments until int's perfect! Really easy.

Don't forget, when you first put the car back down after playing with stuff, go for a little "spirited" ride, cause it will settle ALOT more. You'll be surprised. When I first lowered mine, it didnt seem like much of a difference, but after a couple miles, and a few hard turns, things settled and I was amazed at the difference in stance.:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Thanks sherriff. One front wheel down and one more to go. I think I will go ahead and end up getting the bolts for the rear at a later date.

Thanks again dude.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
nice pics & everything, but i didn't remove the wheels or disconnect the a-arms.

i drove up on ramps, then disconnected the sway bar where it attaches to the frame, then pulled out the two bolts on the bottom end of each shock. then jack up directly on the leaf spring one side at a time...get the leaf high enough to put a prybar between the lower a-arm and lift up on the leaf that way. Then pull out the front bolts/bushings no prob.

a lot easier and faster then removing all that other stuff, but it does require some upper torso strength.

for the rear end, just jack up on the leaf a little, pull the bolt out and switch it. don't leave it without a bolt for very long with a hydraulic jack-they bleed down.

anyway, just a different way of doing things. good write up! your ride looks sweet btw :thumbsup:

--matt
 

·
Registered
Black 08, A&A TI supercharger. Kooks headers. CCW wheels. Much more
Joined
·
12,666 Posts
awesomeame said:
nice pics & everything, but i didn't remove the wheels or disconnect the a-arms.

i drove up on ramps, then disconnected the sway bar where it attaches to the frame, then pulled out the two bolts on the bottom end of each shock. then jack up directly on the leaf spring one side at a time...get the leaf high enough to put a prybar between the lower a-arm and lift up on the leaf that way. Then pull out the front bolts/bushings no prob.

a lot easier and faster then removing all that other stuff, but it does require some upper torso strength.

for the rear end, just jack up on the leaf a little, pull the bolt out and switch it. don't leave it without a bolt for very long with a hydraulic jack-they bleed down.

anyway, just a different way of doing things. good write up! your ride looks sweet btw :thumbsup:

--matt
Ya,thats cool,iv'e done it like that too,the long way is safer,i really don't like to post dangerous procedures.I also did the rear like you mentioned.And once the new bolts were in,i did all the adjustments without jacking the car,just reach under,half turn or whatever.I must have done that 50 times (over a weeks time)in the rear to get it perfect,gets to the point were you only turn one side a 1/4 turn at a time.

The other reason i did it the long way,(now my secret is out),i had to remove the spring,because along with removing the front adjustment bolts,i trimmed half of the rubber from the inner spring brackets,(rectangles),i took half the rubber from the top side of the spring,and glued it on the bottom side rubber that was already there,then put the brackets back on and tightened.
I saved the rubber i cut off (now under spring),because i didn't want to trim the aluminum brackets to make-up then space i cut out.I could go lower,i actually was lower,but i ****ed up my right side rocker panel real bad a couple years ago.Didn't have the frame savers.:bang

I'm curious how low you guys went.Heres my ride height...
Front... - from floor to top center of fender lip 25 1/4 ".......(used to be 25 even).
Rear... - 26 1/4"...(used to be 26" even)

Lower rear front fender,were lower fender seam meets the door seam,and wraps under the car...
go to the lower rear of the front fender,were the seam meets the lower door seam,but under the car/bottom,i took a measurment from the flat/underneith section of the fender (next to the little fender bolt).....from the floor to the bottom i just described,is 2 3/4 "....

Thats with stock zo6 wheels sizes 17/18.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
what size are the stock z06 wheels? ie 245-40-17...that'll change the height of the fender measurements too, right?

i'll go measure mine too...i am curious now :D

--matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
you've got an inch on me todd! but i wouldn't want to go any lower with the streets around here :cry:

Front: from floor to top center of fender lip 26-5/16"
Rear: from floor to top center of fender lip 26-9/16"

i measured behind that little bolt, and came up with 3-3/4". and fyi, the distance from the jacking pad to the floor is the same on all my 4 corners.

that is on stock 245-45-17 / 275-40-18

i bet the rear measurements fluctuates with different gas levels a bit too.



just a thought, as this is a pretty popular topic in this forum: maybe we could get a sticky at the top of the c5 section with instructions, and the heights of everyone who has lowered so we can compare?

--matt
 
1 - 20 of 241 Posts
Top