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need help...rear leaf spring bolt snapped after @ 10k miles, has this happened to anyone else...what can i do, get longer bolts, stronger or did i do something wrong ( i removed top n bottom bushing and had about 3 threads showing on each side
 

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need help...rear leaf spring bolt snapped after @ 10k miles, has this happened to anyone else...what can i do, get longer bolts, stronger or did i do something wrong ( i removed top n bottom bushing and had about 3 threads showing on each side
I thought I was going to find a spammer here, bumping this old thread. :devil:
 

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That hasn't happened to me yet. I lowered my coupe just on the stock bolts. Rides sooo much nicer. I'd like it lower, until, I have to jack her up. What a PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I ordered the lowering bolts for the rear to remedy that problem and I use small 2x4's to give me space to get under with a low profile jack, no big deal at all.
 

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Lowering an F45

I have read all 15 pages of this thread. I see this question has been asked twice, but never answered. Is lowering a F45 suspension with stock bolts OK or not? I have a 2000 with the Selective Real Time Dampening that I would like to lower about an inch, but I don't want to take a chance on screwing up those shocks. Has anybody lowered an F45? I would really like to hear from someone who has done it, not just speculation. Thanks for any input.
 

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Newbie Question on lowering rear

I am intersted in only lowering the rear of my C5 to "level" the car out. Am wondering how difficult this is? Is it safe to do with the stock bolts or should I buy the "longer" ones advertized in Mid America? Will the car need to have a wheel align afterwards?
:huh:
 

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My Z51 car came down approx 3/4 of an inch using the stock bolts. I drove mine for a few days, then had it aligned. I was told it will settle after a bit of driving. Good luck :thumbsup::cheers:
 

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You're welcome:buhbye:, and I'm glad to help. DC is a wealth of info, if you just ask. Good people around here. Nice to meet you Taz :cheers:
 

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Great thread. I've got longer bolts on the way and I'm torn about whether to cut my front bushings or pull the front bolts all the way. What materials have you guys used beneath the spring to keep it from damaging the lower control arm? Does anyone know the factory torque specs for reassembling all nuts and bolts? Any need for lock tight when putting it back together? I had a local tuner quote me 4 hours of labor at $89 to do the job which I thought was kind of insane. While I consider myself a decent wrench, I considered letting him do it as I don't have the means to raise the car. For that price, I figured out I can buy jacks, ramps and jackstands and possibly pay for most of the alignment. What does a quality alignment run on a C5 Z?

Thanks in advance. I'll post up pix when I get it all back together and am sitting in the weeds.

Jesse
 

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I can get a quality alignment from a shop that does military vehicles, fire trucks and semi's for $55. All they do is alignments. I'm with you. The jack stands and jack would be much cheaper and you can use them for life. As for the torque specs, post up when you need them.
 

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I don't know how long you have owned your vette, but I believe that if you don't get a four wheel alignment every so often, you are eating your tires up. Our roads suck out here in CA, and each time I have the coupe aligned, it is in need of adjustment. I bought a lifetime alignment for $130 from a national tire chain.
 

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So I went to install the lowering kit yesterday and started with the front bolts. ON the right side, I unbolted the nut on the top control arm and jacked up the suspension, but the bolt wold not slide out. Instead the top control arm pivoted when being jacked up to the point where the car started lifting off the jack stands. I sprayed blaster into the top control arm bolt, but it was in there very solidly. Could never break it loose. Input guys? Also when my front wheel went back on, I've got a very slight dragging sound on the right front brake. I doesn't pull under braking or appear to be getting hot. Ideas there too?
 

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Since I didn't remove the front bolts, I can't tell you what your issue may be there. Is the dragging sound more than just the brake/rotor rubbing sound?
 

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Where was the brake noise coming from?
 

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Don't know. I pulled the wheel and reinstalled it. Sound cleared up. Still awaiting an answer on how to get the top control arm bolt out to swing the assembly down. Anyone?
 

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Are you having trouble separating the front, upper control arm from the stabilizer? I don't understand your question (as well as others who may be reading this). If you posted some pictures of what you're having an issue with, you would get a lot more responses.
 
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