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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Has anyone lowered the rear of there c5.

I see these kits forsale for only like 49.95.


Has anyone done this in here?

Is it easy, and how long did it take?

Does anyone have any web site or instructions on this install?

Thanks again.
 

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It's a piece of cake. The rear took 10 minutes tops and the front took about 45 minutes for both sides. I am going to cut off the bushings in the front though as I want another .5" or so...
 

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C5 LOWERING

Don't buy the lowering bolts they are only needed to lower the car more then 1 and 1/2 inches in the rear. If you look at photos of my car it's been lowered and it was completely free.

Once lowered your car will need to have an alignment done with in the first 1000 miles. Otherwise your tires will wear out and fast.

If you read up on lowering your car before hand you should have no problems what so ever and should only take you about 1-2 hours tops.

Good Luck.
 

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Once again, "Hawaiian Punch"
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Heres a "copy and Paste" instructions that I had writing out for a fellow member on another forum about a year ago, and also did this same for several other members on different forum's so here you go, and I hope this will help you out........

It's so easy to do! Infact, the hardest thing to do is to cut the rubber off the spring.. that stuff on there is tuff!!
Unbolt the outer tie rod & sway bar, on both sides, losen the spring retainers which is holding the leaf spring to the frame of the car.
On either side that you what to start on first, get a block of wood ( 2 by 4 ) and a small floor jack will be fine, put the wood along with the jack under the spring closest to the a-arm, with out it being ON the a-arm it's self and slowly jack the spring up untill it's not resting on the lower a-arm ( about a 1/4 to an 1/2 inch off ) Disconect the ABS sensor thats located on the brake assembly, thats very important for you to do so!! ( if yours has one) remove the 2 bolts that are holding the shocks to the lower a-arm (they're located near the spring in the lower a-arm), unbolt the lower ball joint stud nut, you can use a two jaw puller or what I did was unscrew the nut untill it covered the end of the stud and with a hammer, tap on the top of the nut and not that hard or you'll ruin either the nut it's self or the stud or both. (try using a hard rubber mallet first)
Before doing this, find something to put under the wheel hub.. another block of wood would be fine just to stabilize it and it should come free with no problem!!
repeat this on the other side and let the presure off from the 2 by 4 and jack free and you should be able to slide the spring out from either side after you pull back at the wheel hub away little, the spring will slide out from the lower a-arm.
It will not come out all the way if the car is not jacked up high enough and it does not have to!! you just need to be able to slide the spring far enough to be able to reach the rubber mounts.
With a steak knife or I prefered a hack saw blade, saw off the rubber mounts and try not to cut into the spring it's self... take your time, don't rush!!.
Do this on both sides.
(Helpfull hint: while cutting the rubber off, lift up on the side that you started cutting at, at the same time you cutting away, the reason is that if you dont do this, the rubber will grab onto the knife/sawblade and you'll make very slow progress if any at all. The first side that I did without doing this took me about an hr and a half to cut, untill I lifted the rubber up off the blade thats sliding back and forth, the other side took 10 min to complete the job, big difference.)
This will give you the drop that your, I think looking for!!!
The wheels will be, depending on what size rims you've got, if your running stock 17's will be about an 1 inch to an 1 1/4 from the fender wells, and if you want an altamite drop on your car, take out the lowering screw's shave off those rubber bushing's that your leaf spring sit's on in the a-arm!! for a maximuim drop NO!! THE TIRE'S WILL NOT RUB!!
You will have to of course hopefully with out saying, take the wheels off to do this job, and the ride is fine, just a little more stiff, and I do mean a little.
A wheel alignment will have to be done but to let you know something, Hawaii 5-LO has had his drop for over a year now and still no uneven tire ware without a wheel alignment done to his car yet.
I hope this helps Aloha.
 

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Well cut off the front bushings on Friday and it was still easy. I will post pics & a review shortly.;)
 

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97redc5vette said:
How do you lower it for free? And if you lower the rear only, do you still need to do the alignment?
I lowered my Z06 for free also. GM has given room to lower the car about .5 with stock setup. I still want it lower so I'm going your route of cutting and installing the new kit in the spring.
 

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Aloha,
Thought i would add something...
The directions that Punch posted is good for about an inch drop.I have since gone back and removed front bolt/bushing,and lowered the rear more to match.You can stick maybe one finger between the tire and fender.You cannot stick your arm under the side rocker panels.If you go this low,you will need a bump-steer kit and adjustable shocks.I also have 1/2 spacers in the upper "A" arms (front).
The rear arms only have room for minor adjustments(caster-camber).I am going to make my rear arms more adjustable when i take them off next time.
This is a pic of my car.It's as low as i can go for now.
 

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Just a word of warrning!!! Remember that if you go to low you will bottom out on the bumpstop and at worst the internals of the shock. Although the car may look cool, bottom out suspention in an emergency is not a good thing. You'll know if your to low if when in mid corner at moderat speed and your car bounce and wabbles.
 

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I removed my front bolts and shaved 1/3 off the rear bushings for the stance I was looking for! No wobbles or bouncing on cornering. Good luck on you lowering and you'll love it.:cheers:
 

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TIKTGTR said:
I removed my front bolts and shaved 1/3 off the rear bushings for the stance I was looking for! No wobbles or bouncing on cornering. Good luck on you lowering and you'll love it.:cheers:
:agree: I let Hawaiian Punch drive my car,he said "wow,that thing handles like a go-cart".It's the same at high speeds.;)

Just a word of warrning!!! Remember that if you go to low you will bottom out on the bumpstop and at worst the internals of the shock. Although the car may look cool, bottom out suspention in an emergency is not a good thing. You'll know if your to low if when in mid corner at moderat speed and your car bounce and wabbles
I agree about the shocks,mine didn't even last 1 year.Theres only a couple places i can't go because of speed bumps.But i love it.Gives the car a totally different look.The rollers for the front help alot also.Bump stop can be dealt with also.:laughing: Never hit any bump-stop yet,i don't even see one in the front.The bump-steer kit is a must though....:buhbye:

Edit-I had a [email protected] gold series oil filter one there,it hangs lower than the stock filter.It was about 1" off the ground..:surprised
 

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How do you manage to get over inclines and speedbumps? Also, I've heard that you have to maintain the 1/2" difference between front and rear (front lower) to keep the active handling system happy. Anyone heard or experienced different?
 

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debmwb said:
How do you manage to get over inclines and speedbumps? Also, I've heard that you have to maintain the 1/2" difference between front and rear (front lower) to keep the active handling system happy. Damn,thats an old picture of my car above/and thread.Anyone heard or experienced different?
The tire diameter takes care of the difference front and rear.17" front tire 18" rear,doesn't matter what the "rake" is.Some even have 19" wheels all around,use a 30 series tire in the front and a 35 series tire in the back,it's about a half inch difference.Frame savers will get you over speed bumps.The car will scrape over tall bumps,but will scrape the frame savers instead of the body.Theres rollers for the front too.Heres my stance now.My car is a daily driver,and i don't have the rollers or the frame savers,i'm just careful and don't really run into to many speed bumps higher than 2 3/4",so thats were i set my stance,i have 2 3/4" between the ground and body..The second batch of pics is frame savers and rollers.

you can see the frame savers running down the side,this car doesn't look lowered to me though.




 

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moto one said:
Just a word of warrning!!! Remember that if you go to low you will bottom out on the bumpstop and at worst the internals of the shock. Although the car may look cool, bottom out suspention in an emergency is not a good thing. You'll know if your to low if when in mid corner at moderat speed and your car bounce and wabbles.
so the shocks will bottom out before the wheels will hit the body?

--matt
 

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What bump stops..:huh: I don't have any "bump stops".
I also still have the same stock shocks,hit some big dips in the road at 145mph,and carve corners why harder than when the car was stock ride height.
After tossing the run flats,i can really corner hard now.The run flats would slide in the front long before the suspension was under a very hard load.

Just my experience from testing.My car actually used to be a little lower,only problem was a cracked rocker panel due to not having the frame savers.
 

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answered all my questions,but one ,why.if lowrering makes tire wear a factor,why..?? and how??? camber should not be affected and castor angles should not be a factor.travel rates on the susspenion ,yes would be a issue,ie (bad road,S Speed Bumps ect.) but why speicficaly the aligment,ie ball joint angle,upper a arm /lower a-arm aspects or what.i not trying to be a jerk ,but being a some what informed,please inlightinen me .
:thumbsup: ;) ;) ;) ANY GREAR HEADS / susspen gm guys
 

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The lower the car goes,the spring flatens out more and pushes the lower a-arm out,so the bottom of the tire pushes out also while the top of the tire stays put.(remember it doesn't react like a coil spring suspension)In my case,i almost ran out of thread for the tie rod,and couldn't realign.You can get bump steer kits,extended tie-rod ends that also allow for the ball joint geometry to be normal.Theres also adjustable end-links to get the sway bar back to it's normal geometry (the lower you go the sway bar rotates also)
Once your as low as your taste,get realigned and everything is normal.
It would be so clear if you had a friend with a c5,crawl under and look at the suspension
 
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