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I currently have a L48. Its getting about time to get serious about looking for a motor. My original idea was to drop a 383 stroker in the 76, but some friends have been telling me this weekend that a LS1 would be the way to go. I just wanted to get some input from you guys about what I should do. Any idea on the price range completely installed for both the stroker and the LS1 and which would be better? Any and all thoughts, links, and previous post would be GREATLY appreciated! Please help............The 30 year old L-48 aid cuttin' it any more!!!!!!!
 

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Performance - LS1
Cool factor - LS1
Streetablity - LS1
Reliability - LS1
Affordability - 383
Installation - 383


LS1 - 4
383 - 2

LS1 wins.

Did I mention performance and cool factor?:D
 

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Performance - LS1
Cool factor - LS1
Streetablity - LS1
Reliability - LS1
Affordability - 383
Installation - 383


LS1 - 4
383 - 2

LS1 wins.

Did I mention performance and cool factor?:D
sorry if this is a dumb question but....

i just have one question how is the ls1 more powerful then a 383 stroker, dont people build their ls1's to 383 strokers to be faster or to handle nos?....im not trying to be a smart ass im just wondering :cheers:
 

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:agree:
 

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sorry if this is a dumb question but....

i just have one question how is the ls1 more powerful then a 383 stroker, dont people build their ls1's to 383 strokers to be faster or to handle nos?....im not trying to be a smart ass im just wondering :cheers:
Yeah you're right. I really didn't mean to imply that an LS1 is more powerful than a 383. I meant that an LS1 has plenty of go-juice. Good point.
 

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Buying a used LS1 from a parts car is always an option as well. I think the cheapest I found to stroke a decent engine was around $800... not sure about the quality though
 

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DC Crew
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LONG post to give you my opinion.

***************383************

The 383 will be the least expensive of the two. If you do it right, you might get around 350-375 rear world hp at the flywheel on a decent do-it-yourself home tune and pump gas. You are looking at poor fuel economy, and the sacrafice of a lumpy idle to cam it enough to make it thump like you want.

The best alternative for the first timer here is to buy crate motor as complete as possible. That way you are just pulling one out, cleaning up the nasty engine bay - then dropping it in. Of course, you need headers, pipes, and quality mufflers to keep it breathing. Don't forget any decent intake manifold will rise too high and put the carb through the stock hood - so you will need to factor in either a lower performance manifold, or a new hood and paint to complete the 383 option.

Also, there have been some slight variations in engine blocks over the years on the old 350. So, depending on what year stroker you use your oil pan may or may not work - which goes the same for valve covers and the position of your oil dipstick.

*****************LS Series*********************

Now you are talking the state of the art as it is know for GM at this very moment. This motor is simple and high tech at the same time. The all aluminum F body, Vette, SSR, or crate version is about 200 less pounds over the axle than your stock engine. In bone stock form, it will muster an honest 350 hp to the flywheel. However, most have found with headers and tune a real 375 at the fly with smooth idle and capacity for amazing MPG is not unusual.

Dropping one of these in will require modifications to the car to some extent. You can either buy adapters, or go cut/weld - fit until the motor sits in the new spot. You can re-use the C3 transmission, but you will get much more out of this combo through mating it up with a 4L60E or T56. You may strike a deal on a used combo with trans.

Accessories are going to be a huge issue. You will either have to cut/notch weld the frame to attempt re-use of stock LS accessories, or go for high dollar aftermarket ones if you intend to keep a/c, etc. There are new products coming out for these everyday.

The LS will require adding a high pressure electric pump and different fuel lines to the car including custom exhaust, wiring, and finally a computer tune. Computer tunes have gotten so simple now for the street guys - you can mail the PCM off, or have a local tuner set it up. They now offer a carb kit from Edelbrock and others for the LS motors. However, I don't know if it will clear the hood - and get ready for some sticker shock.

Anyway you slice it, unless you score a killer deal on the LS motor & trans - the LS will be more expensive. However, it will have the "wow" factor under the hood - and if you haven't noticed - all the aftermarket and interest has gone this route.

************************************************

My personal opinion - is go LS. You won't regret it once it is up and running. However, it will be the path of the most resistence for you right now due to many factors. I put a LS1 with hot heads/cam/injectors/headers/LS6 intake - and tune in my 69 Camaro. The car runs 12.5 @ 111 mph (that is with a stinky horrible over 2 second 60 foot because I drive like a school girl on C5 run flat 18" rubber out back) - gets 25 mpg - and will idle in traffic all day long.


I bought the long block for $400 (spun rod) and $100 for the trans (bad reverse). I spent $160 on a crank kit (they share the same crank from 5.3 trucks to 5.7 cars) - $150 on gaskets/rings - etc and was able to rebuild the block. I then spent $2,500 on hot heads/cam/injectors & oil pump from SLP. Spent $100 on a timing chain and another couple hundred on misc. things.

I rebuilt the trans and then spent $500 on a killer TCI street fighter converter.

The wire harness was $500 from Painless and the tune was $75. I bought a set of PACESETTER headers for around $200 - paid $75 to have three tubes tig welded different - the $150 to ceramic coat them black.

Motor mounts - trans mount - misc radiator hose - fuel lines, pump, etc. = $500 or so.

Don't even know what that adds up to...but I sure do know it is cool!

I am also so stinking close to firing up my latest project - a crate LS2 in my 1985 Vette. So....I am a bit bias

 

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You could do an old style 383 crate motor and get 350-450 flywheel hp pretty easy with good heads and cam, I am guessing for 3-6k depending on how you did it. The motor will drop in the same way it came out and you will have no exra costs depending on the shape of your exhaust/radiator and fuel system.

I think the LS1 would be cool as heck, but you are looking at 5k+ for a used motor and then additional costs for tons of extra stuff converting it. I but you could have an additional 2-4k in these other costs noted below. You would also still only have around 350 crank hp (althought it would run better if you ever got it going).

-Transmission, driveshaft, shifter, crossmember (or at least adaptor plate and driveshaft mods)
-Wiring/computer/tuning costs

-Fuel system upgrade costs (this isn't cheap either)

-Exhaust completely redone

-Major costs/time on pulleys and crossmember mods
 

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Well ive been building motors for 22 years now and my favorite so far is the ls1,you can build ls1 on a low budget too you dont have to spend serious money to get it done yourself.You can always upgrade later on after its in and running too.IVe got under 2000 into my whole conversion including building hte motor from bare block,ill be adding a cam this winter and have over 400 rwhp for under 2500.Last night i went to local cruise night and its great seeing everyone come up and look at my ls1 and say thats a great job putting that in there was it hard,I say nope not really.
You can use the factory fbody harness and wiring it yourself save $500 right there in aftermarket harness.
Fuel system you use a 99 corvette fuel filter regulator,run one 3/8 line to the front the return comes off the regualtor/filter right back to the tank and use a frame mount fuel pump.
If your using a automatic they bolt right up and use a crank hub adapter for the convertor hub to sit in,$50 from the gm dealer with 6 longer bolts.I have my 700r4 bolted to my ls1.

Exhaust well i used my hooker sidpipes and bough ls1 flanges from the dealer for $30 and welded my hooker tubes to them took alittle work getting them
line up.BUt boy odo they sound great,and for $30 theres my exhaust.

I dont run air in mine so the fbody accessories bolt right up no notching of frame or anything fit perect.Motor mount adapter cost me $55.
Pcm i bought from jesse at wait4meperformance for $150 tuned to my specs.I now tune my own with efilive.
 

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It looks like you got some good deals for your LS1 conversion, I wonder though, how commonly a person could come by those parts so cheaply? There is no way I could have even pulled and rebuilt my old 383 for $2500 with everything else that inevitably comes up as extra costs.
 

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3 places,ebay,ls1tech.com parts section,and corvetteforum c5 for sale section,if you search you can find everything cheap.
 

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My local machine shop has a 96 ls1 with about 85000 miles, complete wiring harness, torque converter and trans. He has inspected the motor and did not find anything wrong with it. It also has a set of aftermarket heads on it. All for 1600.00. The guy he got it from owes him money so he wants to get rid of it. Is this a good price.

I was considering it, but I already have a 385 stroker and a 6 speed. But it might be fun to see what it is like to have an lt1 with an auto.
 

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rebuild your motor and stroke it to a 383!!! You already have all the parts just get your heads ported and polished and a good cam (maybe a new intake manifold) and voila... same engine but with a lot more power!!!
 

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It looks liked I should have looked into an LS motor if you can get them that cheap. I did see a sleeved 427 LS1 block at the swap meet last year, maybe I should have gone that route. Can't remember how much it was off hand though.

I think those LSX iron blocks are within a similar price range as my Dart Little M, think around $2200 if I remember right, a little higher, think the Dart block was $1800.
 

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An LS1 in your car would be cool, but the easiest/probably least expensive way to go is the 383. I debated this myself, and I honestly didn't feel the added hassles of the LS1 swap were worth it. Working on these cars is not exactly a walk in the park to begin with. Yes I'm sure some extremely talented mechanics will disagree, but for a weekend warrior they can be much more challenging. I simply didn't want the added complexity. Plus I already own two Vettes with LS based motors, so I didn't think there was anything wrong with staying more traditional with the 76.
 
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