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Discussion Starter #1
Well I have bought an LS2 with a 4L70E with 7K miles on it from an 08 SS trail blazer I bought today. I'm now looking for the rights and wrongs with this motor, The pan is being changed out but besides that what else. Is the accessories going to give me problems?












I am looking for 500+ at the fly wheel when I go to install this into the car, What cam is going to give me the maximum benefit for these heads.

What size converter will this cam require if I have to change from stock?

What headers are other using?

What kind of gains would I see by changing the intake and injectors?

And also who is the best group to deal with for reprogramming the computer?
How much to expect to this to cost?

Thanks to all who may give guidance,

Riggs.
 

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Things you'll have to change....
Oil pan, F body or corvette LS1 or LS2 will work.
Intake and fuel rails. The truck intake wont fit under the hood. You'll need the LS2 intake to fit the existing TB. The Ls2 intake alone is worth 10hp on the top end over the truck.
AC compressor will have to be moved, A arm interference.
Alternator will hit the hood. Go with F body or corvette accessories (and balancer) or aftermarket (Kwik, S&P, etc).
Water pump.Inlet and heater hose connections hit the A arm, outlet will hit the DBW TB. Use a F body or corvette LS1/2 with CSR inlet. Tap heater hose ports for 90 degree fittings.
Speedhound sells mounts and long tube headers for C3s.
Check out GMPP 480hp cam.
You'll need VATS, rear O2 sensors, etc programmed out so someone will have to reprogram. If you're running headers, cam, etc find someone local to do your programming.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Gary, Thanks for the info, Is this what you have experienced or what you have
read, as far as the accessories on the front of the motor. I ask this because I have read
quite a bit and I have read both, some say it works and some say no way. I'm hopping to
have someone who has first hand info, show why and maybe have a way of modifying the
accessories to making them work. Finding the accessory brackets from a Vette or an F body
is going to be expensive, I would rather build my own if it was to come down to that.
I'm just trying to get all my parts together before I make the swap.

Thank you for the Info.

Riggs.
 

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Things you need for the engine.
LS1 f-body oil pan
LS1 f body accessories, GTO accessories should work as well
LS2 intake with fuel rails, not sure about the injectors.

You can retain the stock exhaust manifolds or go with a set of melrose c3 swap headers which will definetly free up some horsepower

I also recommend having the harness setup to mount the transmission controller INSIDE the car, also the computer if you are able too.

The tranmission coolers are not designed to take heat like the computer is that is why GM put them in the cars from the factory instead of the engine bay.




500 in the motor is not out of the question thats only 100 more than what its current output is but its not ganna get there with just a cam unless you put something so big in there that it just wont run right.

Ls2s run the LS6 heads so you have the 243 castings. You could get a set of cnc ls6 heads and cam package for about 2 grand and heads and cam alone will put you over 500 easy

alot of people swap to L92 heads but its my finding that unless your going forced induction or stroking the motor that L92 heads are to big for the stock 6.0 size. they also cause you to lose compression, but they are the best heads for making the biggest power with supporting mods.

For cam I would recommend something around the high 230s to low 240s duration and no lower than 590 but no higher than 630 lift if you want to keep any kind of descent drivability. I would also say a 114 lobe seperation unless you want something really choppy. some might consider that too big for a auto, but the best thing about the ls2 is its DRIVE BY WIRE technology and with a great tune it can idle comfterbly with no surging. On the old ls1 drive my cable alot of people had to tune the RPM idle to like 1200 or drill a hole in the TB for it to be able to suck in the amount of air it needed at idle.

A TUNE IS A REQUIRMENT!!!!!!! especially for a auto transmission. Plus you need to remove the VATS, rear 02s, and a few other things not needed anymore.

Also a stall of no less than 2500 will probably be needed for that type of application.

I am not expert you need to discuss this with a reputable speed shop. let them know your rear end gear size as well because it all comes into play when selecting cams, stalls.

I hope this helps you some, but just remember to reach your HP goal of 500 plus to the wheels you are looking at trying to get 650 or more into the motor. the rear end might be ok because autos are not as hard on them as manuals.

My best advice would be to contact JOSH POWERS at CUSTOM IMAGE CORVETTES, he can set you up with EVERYTHING you need or tell you where to get it, and also what setup and parts would work best for you
 

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It might be possible to use the truck accessories but you will definetly have to remove the ac compressor it will more than likely hit the crossmember.

Also 90 degree fittings on the heater inlets, and a strait neck is a requirment to clear the A arm. The alternator MIGHT clear but for the people that said it fit might have a different year or a BB hood that said it, and the ones that said it didnt clear might of had a stock hood, this is why there may be two diffrent stories.

I can tell you now that with my car intake I had about 2 inches to spare. and i am pretty sure the truck intake is a good 2 inches or more higher than the car intake. and the alternator sticks up higher than that. If you dont belive me look at my avater picture. you can clearly see theres not really that much room left above the motor.

Ls1 f body accessories are not all that expensive, you can get used ones for under 1000 all the time. and if you sell the truck accessories you can probably make more money back than you spend.



Hey Gary, Thanks for the info, Is this what you have experienced or what you have
read, as far as the accessories on the front of the motor. I ask this because I have read
quite a bit and I have read both, some say it works and some say no way. I'm hopping to
have someone who has first hand info, show why and maybe have a way of modifying the
accessories to making them work. Finding the accessory brackets from a Vette or an F body
is going to be expensive, I would rather build my own if it was to come down to that.
I'm just trying to get all my parts together before I make the swap.

Thank you for the Info.

Riggs.
 

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My LQ9 truck motor swap. I made my own brackets. But if you only need a truck spaced PS/alt bracket, buy from Kwik.

I did the swap in my 68 vette with a Richmond 6 speed, anything you want to know, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gary, I like your setup. I will be pestering you for info as I get deeper into this. Your not
running a power steering pump, I will need to so I will have to find a new location for mine
if it wont work were it now. Also are you running the truck pulleys, No problems with the
crank pulley being to close to the front cross member?

When you changed the intake, did you have to change the injectors or were the truck
injectors large enough? In your earlier post you mentioned something about removing the
VATS, What is that?

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it from all of you here on the forum. This LS2
is new ground for me to learn.

Riggs.
 

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The VATS is the vehicle anti theft system, basicly it only works with the keys and ignition that came with the car.

basicly it wont run without the key in the ignition, or on new stuff the key fob in close proximity.

You get this tuned out of the computer when you have it tuned. you will also have to take out the rear o2s as well in the programming. anyone you have tune the computer can do that
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, so even if I wasn't planing any changes to the motor I would still need the
system reprogrammed due to the VATS setup. Thats good to know.

Thanks,
Riggs.
 

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Yeah you need quit a few things changed.

wiring harness also needs to be modified as well.

Unfortunetly the cost adds up pretty good when you do this swap, epsecially if you want to do it right.

you went auto so costs will be down a little more. make sure you get shift points and things like that changed, get a good tune. id recommend dyno tuning it later as well.

I would start my taking off everything I didnt need and putting it up for sale. as well as removing my old engine and trans and sell it off as well, then you can really decide what kind of budget you have to play with.
 

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I'm running truck pulleys and spacing. Although my water pump is LS1 with a truck pulley. Plenty of crossmember clearance on my 68 with both standard and 1" setback motor plates.
Kwik makes a PS/alt bracket that should clear everything for about $250. The vette or F body mounts will work too, check ebay for those.
I changed over to LS1 injectors, intake, rail and wiring pigtails. But the truck injectors will work on an LS1 intake by removing the plastic tips, using LS1 o rings, and using an aftermarket LS1 fuel rail. Not sure about LS2 inakes though.
Vats = vehicle anti theft. It needs to be programmed out. If you go with headers and cam, you'll need a speacialty tune anyway. Find someone local for this.
My final product with a cold air induction (L88 hood).

Here's a pic of the crossmember/truck pulley clearance. The "dimple" in the crossmember for BBC motors gives enough clearance.
 

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Hi Riggs,

good choice for the LS2 you won't regret it

Check my 6.0l LQ4 thread swap in signature, if you need help ask me
 

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Discussion Starter #15
MN-brent, Your build thread is great, I love how professional looking your LS turned out.

mjollnir, I can't seem to locate you LS thread.


I am going to learn as much as I can before the swap, and having you guys
post your experiences is a great help.


I believe I am picking up the LS setup Saturday, Still need to confirm with the owners schedule.

Thanks Riggs.
 

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Wow, so even if I wasn't planing any changes to the motor I would still need the
system reprogrammed due to the VATS setup. Thats good to know.

Thanks,
Riggs.
You don't have to have the VATS programmed out to get the engine running. You can buy a VATS bypass module on ebay for ~$20.00 that will provide the signal that the ECU needs for the injectors. I put my bypass module on a plug so that if I'm parked somewhere questionable I can unplug the module and render the car undriveable. Unless you have some other form of anti-theft device in the car I'd recommend leaving the VATS hooked up.

:cheers:

Rick B.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You don't have to have the VATS programmed out to get the engine running. You can buy a VATS bypass module on ebay for ~$20.00 that will provide the signal that the ECU needs for the injectors. I put my bypass module on a plug so that if I'm parked somewhere questionable I can unplug the module and render the car undriveable. Unless you have some other form of anti-theft device in the car I'd recommend leaving the VATS hooked up.

:cheers:

Rick B.
Nice tip, I haven't read that any where yet but here.

Thanks.

Riggs.
 

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I'm pretty sure an 08 wont have a separate VATS module. Just have it programmed out with all the other stuff you wont use. That way you can have a functional check engine light too.
 
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