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Discussion Starter #1
hello,

i just bought a 1995 LT1 corvette with an Automatic trans the car has 95,000KM on it and have around $2000 for mods. the car has zero mods it is totally untouched.

appreciate your advice on what mods i should start with, the car will be for street and weekend drives. I liove in Bahrain were in the summer it gets 50C so i am planning on:
1- Dewitt or BeCool Radiator ($ 570 - 650)
2- Mezzire Electric water pump around $230

as for the real mods i was planning on:
1- Hooker long tube headers ($380)
2- Flow master cat-back ($ 570)
3- K&N air filter ($70)

is this the best why to spend the money or shall i just replace the cats with straight pipes and install a cam with roller rockers and springs ....

as the previous owner never really drived the car hard he used the car as a weekend drive and never passed 140Km/h in it ever ....

the car currently feels as it only has 180hp rather than 300hp.
 

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DC Crew
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I like step one of your plan but I'd like to see you get a full exhaust system and make full use of the flow from the headers, besides that thing will sound just kick ass with staight pipes and no mufflers.:devil:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
any suggestion on which radiator to go with and is the set up gonna give me a noticable HP ...
 

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DC Crew
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No not really I don't know alot about those radiators. I think if it were me I would try it with the stocker and see what it's gonna do before I drop $600 on a radiator. You might find that it cools just fine and then you can spend that extra money on mods. As for noticalbe horsepower I don't' think your gonna put the headers on and think HOLY CRAP I HAVE A NEW CAR!!! unless your cats are plugged and then that would be a case of the car running properly now instead of the headers. I would think you could spend a few bucks for a tune after the exhaust upgrades just to get the most for your money.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the instant replies ...

I tried the car and it is too hot as it reaches 110 - 120C on the digital ...

is the headers and exhaust the first mods for a C4 or shall i just replace the cats and get me a cam or roller rockers or a 3.73 ...
 

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Try putting a cooler T stat in it and see how it does.

As for mods, best bet would be to get a cold air intake and full exhaust, headers, high flow cats or if you dont have emissions testing no cats at all, and a good cat back. If it were me I wouldnt do a cam swap without doing these.

Gears will give you a good SOTP feel aswell...
 

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I don't think Hooker makes long tubes for an LT1 as a direct fit with the AIR fittings. You have probably already disables the air injection anyway. Rear end gears wil optimise all your mods. You'll get the powerband quicker. Gears and headers. The stock exhoust will have to be modified anyway, so if you get a catback that'll work with the headers, that's be good. Cam, tune and gears might be decent. I'd get the gears for sure
 

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hello,

i just bought a 1995 LT1 corvette with an Automatic trans the car has 95,000KM on it and have around $2000 for mods. the car has zero mods it is totally untouched.

appreciate your advice on what mods i should start with, the car will be for street and weekend drives. I liove in Bahrain were in the summer it gets 50C so i am planning on:
1- Dewitt or BeCool Radiator ($ 570 - 650)
2- Mezzire Electric water pump around $230

as for the real mods i was planning on:
1- Hooker long tube headers ($380)
2- Flow master cat-back ($ 570)
3- K&N air filter ($70)

is this the best why to spend the money or shall i just replace the cats with straight pipes and install a cam with roller rockers and springs ....

as the previous owner never really drived the car hard he used the car as a weekend drive and never passed 140Km/h in it ever ....

the car currently feels as it only has 180hp rather than 300hp.
Then stock radiator will more than cool even a pretty heavily modified engine.....I have the stock radiator in mine still and it dosn't ever go over 180- 185 in the florida heat.....the key is to have the computer reprogramed for the fans to come on at lower temps or simply run a 10 dollar manual fan switch so you can control them to come on early(I use the manual fan switch as well and the reprogrammed fan temps)..........The electric water pump is an OK thing to do but the entire front end of the engine has to come apart to remove the waterpump drive shaft and gear that's "behind" the cam sprocket....point being:thats alot of work to just put on an electric water pump.....I'd save that job when and if you do a cam since you'll be there anyway...........Also, the flowmaster cat back isn't really a good idea either...your stock system has 2 3/4 pipes and the flowmaster cat back system has smaller 2 1/2 pipes and the flowmaster mufflers don't flow that well at all Believe it or not.......for your 95 ,headers from TPIS or Exotic muscle are about your best choices.....they run around $700-$800(I personally like the TPIS ceramic coated units)...........The K&N air filter is a good choice(also cut the lid) this will perform as good (or better) than any aftermarket cold air induction kit for the C4 corvette.............anyway... for an aproximate $2000 budget....."Like mentioned" I would do gears (IE: 3.73 "or" even 3.55's "if" highway gas mileage is a huge huge concern)about $800.......Longtube Headers (either the TPIS or Exotic Muscle, 1 3/4 long tubes) $700-$800........Computer programing so you'll have a performance orentiated tune, and to correct the speedo for the gears, lower the fan temps, and firm up the shifts quite a bit(mail order from www.pcmforless.com is a great choice) $175.........Hypertech thermostat $20.......and the K&N with the cut lid $70........and for some "free" mods which are always good on your 95......the throttle body coolant bypass to stop the useless hot water from circulating in your throttle body heating it up so the blades don't stick.....good idea for cars in sub zero temps, but nothing else(requires nothing to purchase on your 95).......and De-screening your MAF meter........then here's the next round of mods to complete it www.eportworks.com :D (read under LT-1 LE-2 package).........Joe:thumbsup:
 

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I'd also have to say,save a grand to rebuild the trans soon..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the replies, really appreciate it ..

from what i have read it seems the way to go is:
1- 3.55 or 3.73 (this will be a street car, we race for 1 km, need you advice on which one to choose)
2- Long tube headers and 3" cat back need your advice on the cat back system)
3- K&N plus open lid
4- tune and T-stat
5- torque convertor (need advice on which one to choose)
6- Automatic gear deeper oil pan and oil cooler (need advice on brand)
7- MSD 6AL (is it any good)
8- free mods
9- BBK throtle body 58mm twin (will it be any benefit)

future plan will be LT1 LE2 package ....

appreciate your feedback on the above mods, i am planning on getting the stuff from summit.
 

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thanks for the replies, really appreciate it ..

from what i have read it seems the way to go is:
1- 3.55 or 3.73 (this will be a street car, we race for 1 km, need you advice on which one to choose)
2- Long tube headers and 3" cat back need your advice on the cat back system)
3- K&N plus open lid
4- tune and T-stat
5- torque convertor (need advice on which one to choose)
6- Automatic gear deeper oil pan and oil cooler (need advice on brand)
7- MSD 6AL (is it any good)
8- free mods
9- BBK throtle body 58mm twin (will it be any benefit)

future plan will be LT1 LE2 package ....

appreciate your feedback on the above mods, i am planning on getting the stuff from summit.
Your new list has you on the right track:thumbsup: .........As far as gears, Either the 3.55 or the 3.73 gear will work great.....there's only about 200-250 RPM's difference (between either gear choice) while cruising at highway speeds, and the performance is nearly identical.....I would let the deciding factor lie with the kind of rear tires you plan on running most of the time....if you'll be running slicks or at least a good pair of drag radials, then go with the 3.73's, and if it's gonna be regular compound street tires, then the 3.55's will be a bit more forgiving with street traction in first gear......many people tend to forget that 4L60E transmissions (like you have) have a nice low first gear ratio, so super steep gearing isn't really needed for incredible 60 ft times.........as far as your best bet on a torque converter....Of course there are others, but there are really three "stand out" choices for your car(all of which I've had at one time or another).....a Vigilante(by precision industries).......a Yank......and my choice(and recomendation) www.edgeracingconverters.com .. the Edge units are "custom" built for each individual application "unlike" most converter companies that just offer "shelf" type (one fits all) converters.....Edge only uses the best parts, and they have great customer service as well...they're also a couple to a few hundred dollars cheaper than the two other brands that I mentioned(about $550.00 for their street edge unit).......If you do go with Edge, talk to Andre(the owner).....one of their Custom built "Street Edge" converters around 3000 stall, with a 2.45 STR will be a REAL good choice....And not that you would, but just so you know, going much "over" 3000 stall tends to "commonly" cause issues with the factory OBD-1 PCM and the way it responds....there are programming fixes when this occurs, but it can be a pain to deal with sometimes having to re-program the PCM over and over to cure it.....so I would just stay at a 3000 stall like mentioned...this will be plenty of converter and there will be ZERO issues to deal with.....and since this is still a Lock-up converter and is very efficient, additional transmission heat build up is nearly non-existant so adding a transmission cooler (while always an alright idea), isn't a huge necessity that NEEDS to be done right away after the converter.............As far as Ignitions go....the MSD 6AL you mentioned is good, but most (like myself) prefer the newer type CD (digital) ignitions like the MSD Digital 6 plus unit....there are several benifits to this digital type of ignition over the "regular" 6AL boxes....also, on the digital ignitions, everything is adjustable with dials right on the side of the unit and NO other chips or plug in modules are needed as is the case on the "regular" 6AL ignitions.......the 58MM throttle body will be of "little" benifit this early on in your mods, but after you get into the LE package, it will come into play........the Billy Boat 3inch stainless steel mandrel bent Cat back is one of the only exhaust systems that offers a slight advantage over the stock pipes(but it's kinda expensive)....the stock 2 3/4 system makes good "unrestricted" power pretty much all the way up to what your wanting to do(and then some), so unless you REALLY want to, I wouldn't be in a big hurry to replace it with a high dollar system for little HP return.............good luck with everything...............Joe:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for the informative feedback i really appreciate it ...

i always use to own manual cars never Auto so i have no clue about convertors, i went through Edge website are refering to this convertor SKU: SKU7269 http://www.missiontrans.com/store/home.php?cat=14

so the plan is:
1- 3.55 gears appreciate advice on the brand i use to have motivegear and they seem fine.
2- LT headers (Hokeer)
3- no cats no mid muffler straight 2 3/4 pipes till the 2 end mufflers (no X or H)
3- MSD Digital-6 Plus CD Ignitions
4- K&N
5- deeper oil pan and moroso oil cooler
6- tune and T-stat
7- torque convertor
8- free mods

I will keep the TB for the future with the LE2
 

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Yep, thats the right converter...........glad to help........Joe:thumbsup: .............. also, for gears.. if you haven't already went with the Motive brand(which are also ok)......www.precisiongear.com has some of the best quality gear sets available....they're all I really use these days.......and for long tube headers, TPIS www.tpis.com is my prefered choice(not sure that hooker even makes them in a "Longtube" for our year vette's)......you will want a 1 3/4 inch primary tube header, with a 3 inch collector......The TPIS headers PART # 200-007 have these exact specs(Thats what I have on mine and have installed on MANY others cars over the years with great results)...... on a side note, they also still look like the day I put them on, so it's a pretty good prep job and ceramic coating that they're using "unlike" a couple of the other header companies out there that I've seen showing rust after just a short time)....these headers will work great even on a stock car, and will also be all the header you'll ever need even after ALL of your planned mods are completed (IE: LE-2 package Ect...)......also, the Exotic Muscle brand headers are good as well, and they (like the TPIS ones) have the same "desired" specs 1 inch and 3/4 primary tubes with a 3inch collector ...heres there site too www.exoticmuscle.com ....Joe:thumbsup:
 

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thanks for the instant replies ...

I tried the car and it is too hot as it reaches 110 - 120C on the digital ...
110-120C is about 230-248F. These cars are designed to run hot (roughly 220-230F). Without running the A/C the primary fan comes on at about 228F and the secondary around 235F so you're not that far out of range.

Before you buy a new radiator, check the area between the radiator and the A/C condenser. These cars are bottom breathers and every little piece of road debris can get sucked up in that low pressure area clogging the radiator.

Also make sure your coolant is full. The cooling system holds about 17 quarts of coolant and has to be "burped" several times to make sure all air has been expelled from the system. Your owners manual gives instructions for doing this.
 

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110-120C is about 230-248F. These cars are designed to run hot (roughly 220-230F).

Before you buy a new radiator, check the area between the radiator and the A/C condenser. These cars are bottom breathers and every little piece of road debris can get sucked up in that low pressure area clogging the radiator.
:agree:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hi guys,

thanks alot for the info really appreciate it, i will go ahead as planned but i was hoping that i will be going with the LE2 package before the end of the year and dont think that will happen :(

so i plan on adding a cam plus the other stuff for the time being with the stock head.

i went through the other threads and seems that the LT4 hotcam is a good cam for my type of combination i found the kit in summit and it includes 1.6 roller rockers are these rockers good and how do they compare to crane cams gold roller rockers.

is the LT4 hotcam the best choice for me, we dont have any emission requiment around here.

appreciate your feedback as am planning to place my order as soon as i get the go ahead ....

thanks again.
 

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i went through the other threads and seems that the LT4 hotcam is a good cam for my type of combination i found the kit in summit and it includes 1.6 roller rockers are these rockers good and how do they compare to crane cams gold roller rockers.

is the LT4 hotcam the best choice for me, we dont have any emission requiment around here.
The Hotcam kit rockers are the Gold rockers just a different color.

The Hotcam might not be the best choice but it's a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the reply, what will be the best cam in your opinion and will be wise to change the lifters while doing the cam, springs and rockers. Is there any performance benefits in changing the lifters I have seen a lot of types of lifters what do u recomend from them.
 

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Thanks for the reply, what will be the best cam in your opinion and will be wise to change the lifters while doing the cam, springs and rockers. Is there any performance benefits in changing the lifters I have seen a lot of types of lifters what do u recomend from them.
With your "Stock Heads", the Hot Cam will get you about 90% of what even a custom grind cam would......Now, obviously that ALL changes after you have the LE heads, and ALL of the other supporting mods to accent them.......but for now, if your really wanting a cam , the Hotcam kit is a GREAT choice, and will make a definite power increase "even" if the Hotcam kit is the ONLY mods you make(for now)........as far as lifters......many guys run their high mileage Factory GM roller lifters after a cam change without ANY issues whatsoever.....this is especially true with small cams(like the Hot cam) where a huge increase in RPM "isn't" the case ,Nor are high spring pressures.......when you get into larger cams, and ABOVE an (aprox) 6400 RPM shiftpoint, the highmileage factory roller lifters "sometimes" have issues with BOTH "pumping up" and "bleeding down"(compressing) at higher RPM's(and springpressures).....both of which can kill top end power......there in lies the "common" practice of using a different lifter pre-load setting to combat these lifter issues mentioned......or many guys in the recent past have gone to the Morrel lifters with great results, but at over $500 many don't have the budget for them.......luckily many guys now are having good luck with the newely designed roller lifters for the ZO6 corvette's LS7 engine......and the Caddilac racing team developed some as well that are working GREAT......both of these newer designed lifters happen to fit the LT1 engines perfect and are "much" lighter and respond "much" better to the increased RPM's associated with the Large hydraulic "high lift", "high springpressure", "high RPM" cams...and best of all they only run about the same cost as the stock GM LT1's roller lifters (a little over $200 from GM).........so for now, I'd run your stock GM roller lifters that you currently have....and "after" the LE heads and larger custom LE cam.....then think about some of the lifter options that I mentioned(and ask Lloyd to recomend a set for you at that time)........PS: set your factory GM roller lifters Pre-load at 1/8 - 1/4 turn past ZERO lash...this is a very good tried and true performance setting for them.........Joe:thumbsup:
 
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