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I meet an older guy, like me, with a 2010 Grand Sport 6 speed stick. He had picked the car up at the museum and had some session at the factory with a few GM engineers. The 6 speed manual cars have the dry-sump oiling system and this guy claimed that the engineers at the factory stated that the LS3 dry-sump motors put out 441 HP versus the 430 figure of the wet-sump LS3. I don't know if this GS had the dual-mode exhaust. Maybe it did, so the HP adder might have been from the 436 number to 441 HP.

Anyone hear of this before? If true, it must be a windage thing in combination with the different oil pump power requirements??
 

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I meet an older guy, like me, with a 2010 Grand Sport 6 speed stick. He had picked the car up at the museum and had some session at the factory with a few GM engineers. The 6 speed manual cars have the dry-sump oiling system and this guy claimed that the engineers at the factory stated that the LS3 dry-sump motors put out 441 HP versus the 430 figure of the wet-sump LS3. I don't know if this GS had the dual-mode exhaust. Maybe it did, so the HP adder might have been from the 436 number to 441 HP.

Anyone hear of this before? If true, it must be a windage thing in combination with the different oil pump power requirements??

I don't believe GM advertises and power gain with the dry sump on the GS but I would bet that there is a small gain
 

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I meet an older guy, like me, with a 2010 Grand Sport 6 speed stick. He had picked the car up at the museum and had some session at the factory with a few GM engineers. The 6 speed manual cars have the dry-sump oiling system and this guy claimed that the engineers at the factory stated that the LS3 dry-sump motors put out 441 HP versus the 430 figure of the wet-sump LS3. I don't know if this GS had the dual-mode exhaust. Maybe it did, so the HP adder might have been from the 436 number to 441 HP.

Anyone hear of this before? If true, it must be a windage thing in combination with the different oil pump power requirements??
That sounds about right. When I went to my current LS7 the engine builder said that there was about a 12hp loss when converting the motor to a wet sump from the LS7 dry sump.

:cheers:
 

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That sounds about right. When I went to my current LS7 the engine builder said that there was about a 12hp loss when converting the motor to a wet sump from the LS7 dry sump.

:cheers:
Quick in my head math puts that at ~2% gain/loss so 5-10 hp on a LS3 sounds reasonable
 

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I remember that when the dry-sump LS3 grand sports arrived we all thought there was more power there, but we weren't sure why. The dry sump seems like a possibility.

K. Andrew Serum
Director of Business Development and eCommerce
Superior Chevrolet
www.chevyusa.com
 

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I personally haven't seen the internals of the dry-sump pan, but I don't believe it has a quality windage tray so I'm not sure why there would be that much power gain. My understanding is that the primary power gain is from reduced oil on the throws of the crank and a minor power gain from the reduced crankcase pressure due to the pump.

The GM dry sump is also a less than ideal setup because it still uses a slight sump in the oil pan with a single pickup pump. Better than a standard wet-sump, but not a full blown race system.

Here's a picture of the LS9 pan. You can see the dip in the pan with the single pickup. The pump is driven off the crank snout and mates to the pan at the three holes you see at the front edge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I was hoping that someone who had been told the straight dope on the posible dry-sump HP gain would chime in. It seems reasonable that there would be some difference, but it would be nice to see something official. Just found out that these engines are also hand-built, like the ZR1 and Z06 engines.
 

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Even IF there was a 12 flywheel HP gain, which I doubt for most engine loads, the total weight of adding all the sump parts and the increased oil weight would be a negative.
 

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Not sure how "official" this is but here a a video on how it works.
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?viewkey=4e47e52e46cfebe173f2

I can say from many years of drag racing a dry sump is superior to a wet sump as far as engine is concerned. Here is a quote from Moroso that gives some of the advantages. I was to lazy to type it all. :laughing:


Dry sump oiling systems are the safest, most dependable oiling systems available. They’re popular in all forms of racing, especially where low chassis height is important for good handling. Horsepower gain is maximized because there is virtually no oil in the pan and no internal pump, allowing the windage tray or screen to run the full length of the pan. Other advantages of a dry sump system include a remotely mounted oil tank for increased capacity, the ability to easily add remote oil coolers, more consistent oil pressure, adjustable oil pressure, improved scavenging, and increased ring seal due to greater pan vacuum.
source http://www.moroso.com/articles/articledisplay3.asp?article=AboutDrySumpSystems.html
 

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I will be upgrading my LS2 to a dry sump system sometime in the future, just not sure when....Not caring if it makes more power, rather I like better protection during "spirited" driving....

i do have a question, do the holes on the LS7 oil pan meet up to the bottom of the oil pump or do they go to passages in the block then to the oil pump....
 

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I will be upgrading my LS2 to a dry sump system sometime in the future, just not sure when....Not caring if it makes more power, rather I like better protection during "spirited" driving....

i do have a question, do the holes on the LS7 oil pan meet up to the bottom of the oil pump or do they go to passages in the block then to the oil pump....
You are looking at a lot of money for a dry sump LS2. About 5K. The factory dry sump is not very good. The LS motors have a real big problem on long sweeping left hand turns. The LS2 has had many problems and also the lS3. The only motor that hasn't had really any problems is the LS6.They didn't put the dry sump in for more power. They put it in because motors blow up with R compound tires.


I see a lot of guys swapping out their factory dry sump and going with an A.R.E system




Jr.
 

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I went LS2 because of the cost to have the LS6 block re-sleved to get at least a 4.0" bore.

I wont be going pro-racing, just maybe some hot laps with street tires and a better suspension (lg coil overs, new swaybars, ect) and for spirited driving around town. Think the LS7 dry-sump will work or do you think I will have to go ARE?
 

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I went LS2 because of the cost to have the LS6 block re-sleved to get at least a 4.0" bore.

I wont be going pro-racing, just maybe some hot laps with street tires and a better suspension (lg coil overs, new swaybars, ect) and for spirited driving around town. Think the LS7 dry-sump will work or do you think I will have to go ARE?
The factory system will be fine I'm sure. If you ran like Midnite, I bet you would blow that LS2. It seems the LS2 is fine as long as you keep going straight and don't take any hard left hand turns.






Jr.
 
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