Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Some of you have seen my LS conversion. Originally I planned to go onto Guldstrand 5 link, bigger wheels tires, and something like the Baer Big brake package. I'm sure it'd be great and all, but it'd also be about $13k by the time it was all said and done, which would push me out a year a two before I'd want to start it. Also, now that I have massive power, she's a bit squirly and don't stop sooo good. That's kinda dangerous so I started looking at more economical approaches to to reaching hopefully about %90 of the same performance as the above items. To this end I've already got some TT IIs on 17" inch rims with some new Falken tires. Perhaps not super high end, but it will certainly improve over my stock 255/60x15 with GY GTIIs, and perhaps just as important allow for some brake options. Which brings me to my question. Here are the options I'm exploring

- Vette Brakes and Parts replacement OE calipers w/ O-Ring seals and sport rotors. Easy since they're direct fit and won't be as prone to leaking, but peak performance is probably not so much higher than what I have.

- As 70LS1 did, convert to using C5 ZO6 brakes. This is within my resources, and it'd certainly be cool, but I'm a little burnt after spending so much time and energy on the drive line. There are also many application specific gotchas that you just can't know until you start (though he has already graciously guided me on some of them).

- SSBC. I'd be very curious to know if anybody is running Stainless Steel Brake Caliper packages. They have direct fit packages and are reasonably priced, but I haven't been able to get any kind of review about them. I think Van Steel is using them as the foundation for their brake packages.

- The Spare Now Expense Willwood direct fit packages from Hotrodusa. These are complete Hub, Rotor, Caliper assemblies and I'm sure they'd be awesome, but they'd also set me back the better part of $3k. I'd be curious to know if anybody has these and if so what they feel about them.

I intend some day to do some amateur AutoX and maybe even road racing, plus I tend to get a little radical on occasion; therefore so-so brakes aren't such a good idea.


PS For suspension, I'll put 550lbs coil springs up front, the VBP Dual Mount adjustable monospring in back, replace with all Poluy bushings in the back (already done in the front), and replace the stock strut rod with the VBP adjustable Heim Jointed camber strut rod. This should go a long way to heavily reducing squat/dive and suspension deflection.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
Zuki, I say what went on with my brakes over the past 12 years....

fixed a dozen time to get decent lasting pedal....not possible, but the VBP O ring piston/ring set does wonders, along with eliminating the springs....who in hell ever heard of a piston return spring?? anyway...that setup bought me some time, but the final CURE for that soft squishey pedal crap is....HYRDROBOOST and the pedal is good and firm, stock calipers with SS liners which I sure you have allready...so just buy the pistons/O rings setup, and then obviously check your rotors...I find rotors are best price through NAPA for like 30-35 bux each cheeper than any mail order....and they are AMERICAN MADE...were for me last winter, anyway....

that will take care of your brakes.....OH, replace all the rubber hoses also...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Zuki, I say what went on with my brakes over the past 12 years....

fixed a dozen time to get decent lasting pedal....not possible, but the VBP O ring piston/ring set does wonders, along with eliminating the springs....who in hell ever heard of a piston return spring?? anyway...that setup bought me some time, but the final CURE for that soft squishey pedal crap is....HYRDROBOOST and the pedal is good and firm, stock calipers with SS liners which I sure you have allready...so just buy the pistons/O rings setup, and then obviously check your rotors...I find rotors are best price through NAPA for like 30-35 bux each cheeper than any mail order....and they are AMERICAN MADE...were for me last winter, anyway....

that will take care of your brakes.....OH, replace all the rubber hoses also...
Thanks for the advice. With your Hydroboost, do you get any play with pedal? Mine is a bit squishy and I don't like it, but I don't want brakes that are just sort of on or off; I prefer a firm but gradual engagement.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
Thanks for the advice. With your Hydroboost, do you get any play with pedal? Mine is a bit squishy and I don't like it, but I don't want brakes that are just sort of on or off; I prefer a firm but gradual engagement.
Well, compared to ALL other GM brakes in some 45 years of driving, and the brakes in most all of my Dodge 3/4 ton work vans/trucks over the years....

the HB system is nice and firm...that damn squichey feeling of not knowing wether you stop or NOT is gone.....

for the first ~11 years of owning this car, and the other decades with various arrangements of brakes on primarily GM cars, I have to say this is NOW the most assured feeling set of brakes EVER....when first driving it with HB in place, I jammed down like I was used to...anticipating 1/2 way down before feeling ****....and I went into the steering wheel....BTDT years ago...I dont wanna ever again... but yeh, they grab good....got that feeling the car actually WANTS to stop, instead of NOT???

I highly recommed the swap, as does every other hotrodder out there so far...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
I dont know what yellow is talking about self bleeding brakes but here is what I did for about 300 bucks at the local autozone I ended up with 4 fenco reman ss sleve caliper with performance friction pads. I ran them for 2 years whilst I gathered parts...

I now have Wilwood SL4's up front and Forged Billet Dynalites out back and you can run stock rotors.

Call Keith at Corvette Engineering. I got the brackets, lines and fittings from him for $100 an axle and shopped the caliper selection. After looking hard would up with the wilwoods due to price and parts availability $162 apiece for the fronts and $110 each for the rear. Add pads of your choice bleed and go... The SL4 and SL6 are Identical except for piston area and PRICE. Why pay more for 6 pistons ?

Also I used VB&P Aluminum hubs and a bolt on rotor that way if I decide that I dont have enough brakes I can go to 13" rotors with a simple bracket modification on the front. I dont think I will need to change the wheels as I have much clearnace with the bassets...







And dont forget the hydraboost...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I dont know what yellow is talking about self bleeding brakes but here is what I did for about 300 bucks at the local autozone I ended up with 4 fenco reman ss sleve caliper with performance friction pads. I ran them for 2 years whilst I gathered parts...

I now have Wilwood SL4's up front and Forged Billet Dynalites out back and you can run stock rotors.

Call Keith at Corvette Engineering. I got the brackets, lines and fittings from him for $100 an axle and shopped the caliper selection. After looking hard would up with the wilwoods due to price and parts availability $162 apiece for the fronts and $110 each for the rear. Add pads of your choice bleed and go... The SL4 and SL6 are Identical except for piston area and PRICE. Why pay more for 6 pistons ?

Also I used VB&P Aluminum hubs and a bolt on rotor that way if I decide that I dont have enough brakes I can go to 13" rotors with a simple bracket modification on the front. I dont think I will need to change the wheels as I have much clearnace with the bassets...


And dont forget the hydraboost...
Great advice!

Do you know what the piston size on the front Willwoods is? SSBC use 48mm and according to Van Steel this comes out to something like 30%+ more clamping force.

What Hyrdoboost system do you recommend?

Is this the hub you are referring to?

Where would you get the 13" rotor for this hub?


Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Great advice!

Do you know what the piston size on the front Willwoods is? SSBC use 48mm and according to Van Steel this comes out to something like 30%+ more clamping force.

What Hyrdoboost system do you recommend?

Is this the hub you are referring to?

Where would you get the 13" rotor for this hub?


Thanks again.
Stock fronts are 1.875 dia ... wilwood SL4 are 1.75 dia SL6 are even less area Dynalites match the stock rear at 1.38

No experience with SSBC

Pick one or roll your own HB

Yep that's the hub.

VB&P, Corvette Engineering, Coleman racing, Speedway Motors I think 13"er generally need 16 or 17" rims.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Stock fronts are 1.875 dia ... wilwood SL4 are 1.75 dia SL6 are even less area Dynalites match the stock rear at 1.38

No experience with SSBC

Pick one or roll your own HB

Yep that's the hub.

VB&P, Corvette Engineering, Coleman racing, Speedway Motors I think 13"er generally need 16 or 17" rims.
So what we might be looking at would be:
Front Bracket
Rear Bracket
Front Calipers
Rear Calipers

Stock rotors, or VB&P Alum Hubs, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
So what we might be looking at would be:
Front Bracket
Rear Bracket
Front Calipers
Rear Calipers

Stock rotors, or VB&P Alum Hubs, etc.
You should give Keith a call or shoot him an email. He has a spreadsheet that has all the piston sizes of the various calipers. It also shows what percentage your brakes will be improved over stock. He helped me out a lot when i was going through the C5 brake conversion.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top