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Hi everyone...
I've been away for about a year as the Navy sent me on quite the long deployment. Now that I'm back I can finally get back to work on restoring the '76. Before I left I was working with Gary to rebuild the Diff, but I decided to rebuild the muncie before I get back in to that. (I know, '76 should have a Super T-10... I was surprised to find that my tranny is not original. Oh well.)

Anyway, This may have been done before so I hope you dont mind if I document my progress as well....

Here she is on the bench with the oil draining out. Im working on this in the basement as the garage is a bit to cold right now. The smell of gear oil filled the house! Wife not amused.


Removed the side cover next. Marked the shifter forks so they can go back in the same position.



I was happy to see that on first inspection the gears are in good shape.



Tail housing came off next. Here you can see the speedo gear, reverse gear, and reverse idler and shaft. The ends of the reverse idler show some good signs of someone grinding them till ya find em...



Next out was the front bearing retainer, and nut. This nut is a pain to get off. I got the special wrench but it just wouldnt budge. Wound up using a chisel and carefully tapping it off without damaging the threads on the input shaft.



Next the mainshaft came out of the case. A little tricky getting out around the counter gears, but no big deal.



I used my press (bought for working the diff..) to press the counter gear shaft out. Man, I wish I had this when I started this restoration. More needle bearings everywhere...



To disassemble the main shaft, first the lock ring has to come off in front of the 3/4 slider hub. Again, right tool for the right job- A pair of $14 lock ring pliers took it right off.



HAd to use the press to get the 3rd gear and 3/4 hub off. I love this press!



Thats it for tonight, I'll continue tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
 

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Great thread. I cant wait to see the whole process.

Can we get a full shot of that press? That is one impressive piece of hardware. :partyon:
 

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You will find that if you shift the 4speed into 2nd gear the side cove is much easier to pull off the transmission.

I now use a "dummy shaft" for keeping the needle bearings in place in the cluster gear. The "dummy shaft" makes installing the countershaft a one time deal.

Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive or "Yamabond" type motorcycle crankcase sealer on the front of the countershaft where it fits into the main case at the front to prevent future leaks (I have found that Permatex#2 will leak.)

I hope you carefully measured the spedo gear dimension on the mainshaft, you will want to get it back to the exact same place on reassembly.

I also make sure the thrust washer tabs are completely bent to a 90degree angle like the old Chevy Power manual shows.

I use a Dremel tool to dress up the reverse idler gear and have never found a used one with a good looking gear. Use a stone and smooth any places it looks like they might chip off.

Maybe some of these tips will help, I hope so, have fun!
 

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Glad to see you're home safe and sound. :thumbsup: Thanks for your service.

I have an M-22 to rebuild as well, my buddy dropped it off in boxes,everything apart and washed!

Look at each small tooth on each gear,they should be sharp like a pentagon. A lot of times there are broken or rounded teeth,I didn't see any in your pictures.

Assemble the sliders,hubs,dogs,clips and dress the clip ends so they don't drag. Paul's video on Muncies covers this and is great when doing this the first time.

Look at the forks for a wear ring 180* if so replace them.

I use the green trans grease to load the needle bearing and main shaft bearings, you should find it at a NAPA, Dr Trans is the name I think really works great. I pack the needles in the countershaft and slide the new shaft through, holds them in place no problem.

Doesn't look like any oil leaking from the front shaft either.

Nice job, good luck.
 

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Great thread... thanks for posting :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great thread. I cant wait to see the whole process.

Can we get a full shot of that press? That is one impressive piece of hardware. :partyon:
Got it from Harbor Freight because they had the cheapest shipping ($11 compared to 50-70 everywhere else I could find) Maybe not the best quality, but for what I am doing its perfect.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Glad to see you're home safe and sound. :thumbsup: Thanks for your service.

I have an M-22 to rebuild as well, my buddy dropped it off in boxes,everything apart and washed!

Look at each small tooth on each gear,they should be sharp like a pentagon. A lot of times there are broken or rounded teeth,I didn't see any in your pictures.

Assemble the sliders,hubs,dogs,clips and dress the clip ends so they don't drag. Paul's video on Muncies covers this and is great when doing this the first time.

Look at the forks for a wear ring 180* if so replace them.

I use the green trans grease to load the needle bearing and main shaft bearings, you should find it at a NAPA, Dr Trans is the name I think really works great. I pack the needles in the countershaft and slide the new shaft through, holds them in place no problem.

Doesn't look like any oil leaking from the front shaft either.

Nice job, good luck.
Hi Gary! Thanks for the kind words.
The teeth are in good shape. I was actually surprised at the overall excellent condition inside the case. In any case I'm glad I'm doing this- if I didnt it would bother the crap out of me not knowing.
I am using the green tranny grease. Except I got it from
5speed.com when I ordered the kit. good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You will find that if you shift the 4speed into 2nd gear the side cove is much easier to pull off the transmission.

Ha! I found this out the hard way!

I hope you carefully measured the spedo gear dimension on the mainshaft, you will want to get it back to the exact same place on reassembly.

Now you got me worried... The manual gives a measurment when reinstalling, so I just pressed it off assuming I would just reinstall it to that measurement.

Maybe some of these tips will help, I hope so, have fun!
All good tips- Thank you!
 

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Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove
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This is an excellent thread! I wish digital cameras had been around about 25 years ago! I'd have had a lot more pictures of my misspent youth!

Steven
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I left off with the 3/4 hub and slider pressed off. Next, there is a lock ring behind the rear bearing and in front of the reverse gear that needs to come off before flipping it over and pressing out 2nd gear, the 1/2 hub and slider, 1st gear, mid plate and rear bearing, reverse gear, and speedo gear all in one shot. (This is where the video and book come in real handy- never would have thought to do it that way.)
Here are all the old parts laid out on the bench in the order they came off the main shaft:



Some of the parts here will be replaced with parts from the new kit, but it keeps me reminded of how it will go back together.
Last step of dissasembly was pulling the seal and driving the bushing out of the tailshaft, and tapping the rear bearing out of the mid plate. There is also a seal in the reverse shaft bore that gets replaced.
Main case, mid plate, and tailshaft housing all got a good cleaning in the parts washer followed by some cleaning in the blast cabinet. I chose to paint the exterior. Here is the main case with paint and the tailshaft before paint:



One at a time, I cleaned all the gears, sliders, hub's, etc.. in the parts washer. Once again, I didnt want to get everything mixed up.



With all the parts cleaned and ready for the rebuild, I laid the new parts out. Here is what comes in a rebuild kit:



Thats about it for now. Tomorrow I will start by putting the tailshaft back together.
 

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DC Pit Crew
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great pics, thanks for posting :thumbsup:

Looks like the kit comes with the 8 ball JAF front bearing. I looked around for the US made BCA 12 ball bearing when I did mine, but was in a time crunch and had to use what was available locally. There are some pics from my rebuild (mostly of damaged parts) after my front bearing race took a dump :down:

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128053&highlight=muncie
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finally at the best part- putting it back together! When I took it apart, I wrote down everything I did so I wouldnt forget anything when I got to this point. Looking at it now, It is not nearly as intimidating as it is when you first take the side cover off. But then again, If I hadnt read the book a million or so times, that might not be the case! Anyway, Reassembly starts by making sub-assemblies- The tail housing, Main shaft, and countershaft. I started with the Tail housing. First to go in is the reverse shifter shaft seal. Just used a socket here to tap it in.



Next is the reverse shifter detent spring and ball which go in with some of the assembly grease to hold it in place. The ball needs to be pressed in the hole while inserting the shaft. My first setback..... As Im holding the ball in and getting the shaft in position, the tool slips off and the ball flies across the basement. 3 hours later I find the ball and get the shaft in. Not hard, just a pain to get that ball in place. Here it is before the shaft goes in (prior to launching the ball):



And with the shifter in place:



Next to go in is the tail shaft bushing. I used the press after getting it lined up right. Once again, The press is handy and has already paid for itself.



and then finally the rear seal is tapped in. I used some RTV on the outer edge and packed a little grease on the inside- I heard this helps keep the spring in place.



Here are some of the "special" tools I have needed so far. The small shiney thing is what I used to hold the ball down and of course the lock ring pliers.



Next is the main shaft.
 
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