opening I'm making is going to work out perfect.

 

c3 4 link install update/pics

 

With the suspension travel, what keeps the drive shaft and or the differential from hitting the cross member? I guess you have plans to mod the cross member with a large drive shaft hope?


Riggs

 

If u look in the pic with the shock and spring on the left you'll see a U shaped piece of steel. You cut the crossmember and fill the opening by welding in that piece.
I have a 3" steel driveshaft from my old racecar that I'll be using.

 

Wow, lots of work. Looks very well done. Keep em coming.

 

The quality of the parts looks great and it looks as though you have everything you need to keep the project moving forward.

If you don't mind me opening up this can of worms, what's the purpose for the car? I'm assuming with all the time and money it'll take to complete the solid rear axle is to set the car up for track use?

 

Thanks DB
No can of worms here, hehe-The purpose for this car since I got it was to have a 10.0 index car that I can drive anywhere.
I'll run 10.0 index and corvette challenge 10.50 classes at Etown.
Capable 9.50 on rental days. :devil:

That's why I got the 3:00 gears and decided on a nitrous car cause u can run less gear with nitrous which is great for the street and still run well at the track.

 

Mark, everything is progressing very nicely! Cant wait to see it when its all done, keep us updated artyon:

 

some welding today
Still have to finish notching crossmember, prime and pain, install springs and driveshaft, set pinion angle...:crazy:

 

Your welds look great, is that something you do for a living? My welding skills
come and go. Looking good so far, it won't be long before you are posting a burn
out Video, Hint, Hint. :laughing:


Riggs

 

Thanks Riggs.
I "wish" I could weld like that :laughing:
I do some welding and alot of fabrication stuff but I will only weld non-structural stuff-brackets, floorpans, stuff like that.
My buddy Tim came over and welded that for me.

 

Nice work!! :thumbsup:

Is the different attach points for ride height?

 

Thanks.
No the ride height is dictacted by the spring adjustment on the shocks. The bars are use to set pinion angle on the rear and for tuning the rear suspenion for drag racing.

 

:thumbsup:

 

Did you order everything from auto fab? If so what was the final price to your door including shipping? This is my next project after paint. Thanks

 

$5200 shipped. shipping was $250 but I had it shipped to my friends shop to save couple bucks and in case I wasn't home to receive it. Yes everything from Autofab.

 

thats a nice set up hopefully ill install one down the road:cheers: how much can you lower it from the rear by the way?

 

Thanks.
As far as how much you can lower it-that's "kinda" up to you.
Autofab designed these with a 28" tire in mind but I had studied others builds and I just did not like how high the car sat up in the rear-totally changes look of car. The 9" pumkin in just BIG.
I wanted to have mine sit lower so I had to cut out more of the rear fiberglass as in these pics. Now the tire pic under fender is with the car at ride hieght, leaving 2" of upward travel to spare.
This tire pic is with 26" tall tires-I will have 28"s on the car soon and I think they will look REALLY good.

 

Looks good, keep us posted. I'm interested to hear your impression of how it drives and handles.

I finally broke down and bought all the parts sold by Tom's for the HD IRS. I don't plan on racing my car, but might step the motor up with a top end kit.

 

That Toms set up is sweeeeeet! I wish I coulda kept the IRS but budget didn't allow for it.

 

Thx. I just dropped of control arms and brackets for powdercoat.
As far as road handling with a 4 link-I can tell you body roll is ZERO, side to side movement is ZERO and rear end upward rotation during hard accelleration is no more that a single degree. Thats with any 4 link not just this one.
I have plenty of travel up and down so adjusting for somewhat of a "plush" ride should be fine. :laughing:
I also expect some road noise and vibration because of the solid rod end links.

 

Little more progress-cut out the crossmember for driveshaft clearance, kinda weird, Autofab provides the filler metal but if you cut it out like they instruct-it doesn't leave you enough metal left on the crossmember to totally fill in. So what I did was leave about 1" extra on the top of the crossmember, then I releived it a little with the wafer blade, cut out the rest to fit the filler piece, then snuck a small sledge hammer in there to bend the releived crossmember metal to close it all in.
My buddy Tim is coming back to weld it all in.
Also got some painting done.

 

Damn Mark, everything is looking REAL clean! Nice work :thumbsup: She should be up and running before you know it!!

 

Thanks Kevin.
Few more pics, got the panel sealed up and painted, used rubberized undercarriage paint. little nerveracking cutting that HUGE hole in my car but I'm happy with the result.

 

Impressive fab work, it looks real clean! :thumbsup:

 

Small update, havent touched car all summer.
There was some frame rot where the new shock mounts were located so I cut out the section (on both sides to be safe) and boxed it inside the framerails and on the bottom-1/4" steel-overkill for sure. Got the crossmember welded up and made a driveshaft loop for the rear crossmember.
Shaped a 3/4" PVC panel to cover the rear hatch area-gonna hinge and carpet it as well.

 

Looks great.