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Discussion Starter #1
1st I ordered the hoses,stat,cap
used this set to eliminate the TB hoses & 2 T's from the system.
https://corvetteparts.com/c4/item/447844
also replaced the OEM clamps with the worm gear type,used a 1/4 in ratchet with a 5/16 6pt socket on the clamps.
the OEM clamps I used a pair of water pump pliers & a pair of needle nose vise grips,some are a pain to remove because of their location. .I bought 2gal of Prestone ,the extended service yellow/green tint type to replace the org green.I did call prestone & thay recomended to use that.Also bought 10 gal of distilled water for the flush/ i didn't pull the knock sensors.I jacked up the Pass side & removed the tire,that made access to the lower hose clamp & radiator drain plug much easier.I put a 6x6 under the a arm for safety.Then proceded to flush out the old coolant 3 times with the heater on.used a no spill funell,that also made it a lot easier.After the last flush,I removed the fill tank & overflow tank & washed them out,used the garden hose to flush out the heater core also.Sliceing the org hoses lengh wise also helped in their removal,some are stuck on rather hard.Removed the thermostat,be sure to clean out the groove the rubber seal sits in,stuff wet paper towels in the WP housing to catch the corrosion while cleaning. I also cleaned up the mating surfaces with 320 grit emery cloth. I wasn't sure if the 2 housing bolts went thru water passages but a dab of Pematex #2 on the bolts to play it safe. reinstalled the fill tank "remember to plug the low coolant switch back in" & overflow tank,added the Prestone full strength,you can fit in 2Gal . I put some in the over flow tank also.Then I just started the car, turned the heater on,squeezed the rad hoses to burb out the air & felt the heater hoses to see if thay were hot & getting coolant flow. I kept a eye on the temp gauge &the no spill funnel with coolant in that. Did about 5 cycles of heating & cooling,adding antifreeze etc. when I was satisfied I finally put the new rad cap on ,reinstalled the tire & went for a short drive with the heater still on.After it cooed down I just added some distilled water to top off the tank & to the overflow tank. Ya long winded. Got another 1 comming up on how I used spray GUNK to clean the condensor & rad & useing carboard to keep the opti dry :D
 

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1. You said, "I wasn't sure if the 2 housing bolts went thru water passages but a dab of Pematex #2 on the bolts to play it safe." Comment: not necessary for those 2 bolts.
2. You said you added two gal. of 100% anti-freeze? This is okay if premix, but if straight antifreeze then your system will not cool nearly as well as a mixture of 50% distilled water will. Did I understand you correctly?
3. Go get a digital, no touch laser thermometer and point that beam at your water pump and hoses to confirm that your inside water temp gauge is working properly. With this type of tool you can confirm the exact heat points where the two fans kick on and off, giving you even more precise info in order to troubleshoot. If the true engine water temp readings are wonkers, then go after the water temperature sensing unit. I believe that puppy plugs into its female receptacle underneath the intake plenum. It is easy to forget to plug that back in after front engine work. Ask me how I know. Good luck and report back please.
 

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Coolant Capacity (qt.)
14.5 (man.) / 14.6 (auto)​
Yup 2Gal of strait Anti.I totally flushed out the old green from the block & system till it ran clear.I dont believe a Xtra Qt of Anti will make much difference but do believe the mix will be a tad denser/thicker.I used the Permatex for my own satisfaction on the 2 Thermo bolts.Same thing on the replacing all of the Org clamps.I do posses a Infrared thermometer. Since it runs within factory specks Im satisfied.I did also clean the debris from the Radiator & also used a degreaser on it & the garden hose.
 
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