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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first kinda successful photoshop. I was going 4 a C4+C5=C6 kinda thing. Brian and Pat I could really use some Tips on how to do this better. Which tools etc..
Thanks
Loggins.
 

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Loggins1 said:
This is my first kinda successful photoshop. I was going 4 a C4+C5=C6 kinda thing. Brian and Pat I could really use some Tips on how to do this better. Which tools etc..
Thanks
Loggins.
"Imagine" where the "light source" is shining from and then remove the paint color to suggest where the light is hitting the car. You can erase with varying amounts; not necessarily 100% of the color. Also, adjusting the lightness/darkness of areas will suggest highlights/shade/shadow.

good luck. :thumbsup:

(Additionally, using a "mule" with a lot of good shade/shadow/reflection will give you a better start than one that is kind of "flat". For example, some of the white spy photo cars don't have very much strong light hitting them, causing the surface changes to be hard to see. A colored car, as opposed to white, also seems to be easier to work with since you actually have color to remove for the highlights.)
 

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Brian pretty much summed it up. We aren't tooking our horns, but Brian and I are pretty much pro's at this. He does this for a living, I've been doing car illustrations for 25 years (mostly airbrush, ink, pencil... marker).

My C6 concepts can take easily 3-4 hours. Some longer. But, I make BIG detailed pics, and I'm anal. To an amatuer, maybe 15-20 hours.

I've been using Paint Shop Pro for 5 years, so I don't even THINK when I am drawing. I have it in my head and it comes out in the picture. I am on "auto-pilot" when I use the software. I'm not evening aware of what I am clicking. It just happens.

Much like anything, you have to start somewhere, like you are.

I would start with a better and bigger picture than you are starting with. Find a nice big sharp C5 pic, and just play around. Also, take some time and study reflections. Even if you have a die-cast car on your desk, it's a good reference to see how light works, and how reflections work.

Take your time, go slow - you'll get better at using the software every day. Oh, and have fun!

:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Brian and Pat you guys have gave me great advice im sure to use. when i first started to use this software I thought it would be a peice of cake. But it has turned out to be a welcomed challenge. I will keep you posted on my work.
Thanks Again
Loggins.:thumbsup:
 

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Loggins1 said:
Thanks Brian and Pat you guys have gave me great advice im sure to use. when i first started to use this software I thought it would be a peice of cake. But it has turned out to be a welcomed challenge. I will keep you posted on my work.
Thanks Again
Loggins.:thumbsup:
Glad to help. I think Pat has a better handle on creating the highlights than I do. But with practice, anyone with vision, patience (insanity), and time can manipulate the software fairly well. Pat's right (and I didn't realize this right away) but the larger photo you start with, the better results you will end up with. In fact, when I started working with the white pilot #2 spy photo (the same one you used above), I copied one from on line. I quickly got frustrated with its clarity and scanned a larger copy from a magazine @ 600 dpi to work on the last one I did.

The smudge tool is your friend. And remember you can adjust the percentage of how much the tools work.

By the way, how much RAM does your computer have? :laughing:
 
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