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in almost ever case youll,need to loosen the oil pan bolts enough to allow the front lip on the pan to drop about 3/8" to get the oil pan gasket installed correctly but you seldom need to DROP the oil pan,altho many people do prefer to do it that way
 

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The first thing you want to do is securely support the the Corvette on several jack stands, I bought the six-ton rated jack stands simply because there are only $10 more than the three-ton rated jack stands,(they are much better built also) you'll need to get the Corvette, approximately 18 to 24 in. off the ground if your going to be able to comfortably work under it. Once the Corvette is firmly supported on four jack stands . You can remove the oil pan, but if your going to pull the oil pan, it will make it much easier, if you remove the two diagonal cross braces that bolt/ go-between the center of the (K) frame in the two frame rails at the front of the oil pan. you should not have to loosen the motor mounts, but you will have to turn the crankshaft by hand to get the counterweight Clarence to remove the oil pan. If the crankshaft is in a wrong position you will not be able to get the oil pan to slide to the rear enough to clear the (K) member, as the pan will only clear the crankshaft counterweight to one position.
While you have the oil pan off you might want to seriously consider putting a better oil pan on, a good-quality oil pan can be purchased at a reasonable price if you do some careful shopping.

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.a...stmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport

This company has very good deals on oil pans, I bought a seven half-quart baffled oil pan, that was seven and one half inches deep, with the passenger-side dipstick for approximately $90, it cost me another $40 at the local welding shop to have the lower front edge cut at 45 degree angle one quarter inches wide to clear the (K) member, and to have the sump extended forward about 6 inches , but no deeper, what I had when I was finished, was an oil pan and I would not normally be able to buy for under $250, that held nine and a half quarts, fit my milodon windage screen, and still fit my Corvette engine perfectly yet was still only seven and one half inches deep!
The addition of the windage screen and baffled oil pan with a considerably larger oil volume allowed my engine to run cooler and removed any worries about the bearings having oil starvation problems.

A good welding shop could modify your stock pan in a similar manner but the costs involved would probably make it a smart idea just to buy the baffled and modified pan and I did.
If you want to stay. With only seven and quarts which is still a major improvement over the stock oil pan volume you'll still have to get the front of the oil pan lower edge modified/cut to clear the (K) frame, unless you buy a pan is already designed for the Corvettes. Those pans are also available but since I intended to extend my oil pan to 9 1/2 quarts it was not a major expense. BTW
The the new one piece silicon oil pan gaskets are much easier to install if you ignore the instructions that come with them that say not use any sealant and use little contact cement on their upper surface when placing/installing the gasket against the block using studs instead of bolts in the four corner and two center positions to align and locate the gasket and too hold it in place while you're reinstalling the new oil pan, contact cement makes the job much easier
 
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