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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Need Info on Purchasing a C3 **Found one**

Hey,
I have been reading for a while and decided to purchase one. I know I would like the year model to be a 68-70. I would like It to have atleast 350 HP to start off from. So what are my engine options The 350 upgraded version has 350 HP right? Also What HP does the 327 have and what is the deff. between the two engines. I heard the 327 turns up quick is this true. I know for sure I want a Manual. Also I was planning on putting Hooker Headers w/ STS Baffels. And then I was also planing on combining the heads from edelbrock with one of there performance packages. ( the one with the cam, intake manifold, and Carb.) If it helps, the Car is going to to be driven on the street and more than likely ran hard the few times a month I take it out. But it also is going to sit for time periods. So what is the best place to start a 327, 350 (350Hp), or go all out for the 454. And do you see a problem with my planned mods? Also is there anything I should go ahead and plan on purchasing or fixing. (i.e. bearing bushings etc.) Thanks for all the advice


CV
 

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Hey,
I have been reading for a while and decided to purchase one. I know I would like the year model to be a 68-70. I would like It to have atleast 350 HP to start off from. So what are my engine options The 350 upgraded version has 350 HP right? Also What HP does the 327 have and what is the deff. between the two engines. I heard the 327 turns up quick is this true. I know for sure I want a Manual. Also I was planning on putting Hooker Headers w/ STS Baffels. And then I was also planing on combining the heads from edelbrock with one of there performance packages. ( the one with the cam, intake manifold, and Carb.) If it helps, the Car is going to to be driven on the street and more than likely ran hard the few times a month I take it out. But it also is going to sit for time periods. So what is the best place to start a 327, 350 (350Hp), or go all out for the 454. And do you see a problem with my planned mods? Also is there anything I should go ahead and plan on purchasing or fixing. (i.e. bearing bushings etc.) Thanks for all the advice


CV
Oh boy, money to spend....

From what I have see over the past few years, you can do just about whatever you want to these cars as long as you have a plan!

I would recommend that you get a book for the years 68-72. Something like this from Ecklers...that will give you the stock info.....Then ask a lot more questions like you have started on this forum and the guys here will be strait with their advice!

http://ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=39243&dept_id=224

Repairs, updates, rebuilding will all depend on the condition that the vette is in. You can find them in any condition from a rolling pile of dung to a superduper rebuild to anything in between. Just make sure you do your homework and ask plenty of questions or you could end up with a very costly rolling pile of dung.

So how thick is your wallet:rolling:

Welcome to the World of C3's and good luck in the hunt.:thumbsup:
 

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Like Smoke sez, and anyone here will back up, you have about 20 brazillion possible combos to work with....there are more variations on the SBC than any other engine in the world....takes your pick.....the 350/350 I THINK was a 69/70 only version....I think you would be very broke finding a factory version....and since you want to modify the car, I would not break for an original of any huge value....

having said that....IMO for a sound structure street driver, you need spend nothing less than 10 grand these days.....assuming a chrome bumper car....

U have a tone of homework to do first, gotta read up on the rust issues, then accident problems, then drivetrain variations, then the possible easy done upgrades.....Fuel Injection through overdrive trannies...stick and auto....
a/c fixes/upgrades....resto costs for interior, body, then we get into the rear suspension.....

these cars will be a large edjemakation for U.....

U will be able to fix the space shuttle once you understand sharks....:rolling: :rolling: :crazy: :spanked: :cheers:
 

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Keep reading!! The 350hp small block was available 68 thru 70. For 68, it's a 327. 350 for 69 and 70.

FWIW: why modify a 350hp car? If you find one, 350 stock horses ought to be plenty.

:thumbsup:
 

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Between the 300 and 350 hp engines - they are very different. The 300 hp is mildly tuned and has a smooth idle - torque developes right off idle. The 350 hp is a performance engine, set up more loosly, "nice sounding" idle, was only available with the manual transmission and has a higher redline. Both have hydraulic lifters. The LT1 370hp/350ci came about in 1970 and had solid lifters. It was a 327" until 1969 when it went to 350" because of emissions. Both in a SB engine wind up pretty quick especially if you have a low ratio rear (high numeric).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey,
Thanks for the advice so far. Yea I had no intentions of getting a "original" car for my first Classic car. I am looking for a good solid structual car. I will swing by the book store and grab that book. also did all 327s come with 350 Hp? Also when test driving what suttle symptoms should i look for. I mean i know the major keys(gears grinding clutch not fully ingaged), but are there any little things I should look for mechanically? Thanks

P.S. Smokin BBC good to see your form G-boro also. What do you think of the colisuem car show?

CV
 

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Hey,
Thanks for the advice so far. Yea I had no intentions of getting a "original" car for my first Classic car. I am looking for a good solid structual car. I will swing by the book store and grab that book. also did all 327s come with 350 Hp? Also when test driving what suttle symptoms should i look for. I mean i know the major keys(gears grinding clutch not fully ingaged), but are there any little things I should look for mechanically? Thanks

P.S. Smokin BBC good to see your form G-boro also. What do you think of the colisuem car show?

CV
Didn't know you from Gboro! Where are you at? I am in Oak Ridge just down the road from the Oak Ridge Military School.

Didn't go to the show...when was it?

I don't think have I ever seen those books at the book store. An online vendor like Ecklers will have them to you within a couple of days.

From a structural standpoint, your worst nightmare with these old cars is rust..more specifically in the birdcage. That is the area that surrounds the passenger compartment.

With a 35+ old car, a good visual inspection will tell alot. Oil leaks, brakes, suspension, fiberglass repair(colission damage), paint quality, etc., original componants.

Other than what you mentioned, when driving, check the charging system, temp guage and the oil pressure guage. Look for smoke from the exhaust. Listen for wheel bearing noise, etc. Does the car track strait(alignment, frame issues). Braking..strait ahead or pulling. Vibrations, Engine performance/noises...bubba repairs:laughing:

Unless your willing to spend big bucks, you will most likely get one that has things that need to be addressed...after a while, most things on these cars will need to be maintained. The good news is that if it is structurally sound, you can repair or replace just about anything on these cars....if your willing to put in some sweat equity and have a little cash.

I am familiar with the C3 metal bumper years. 68-72. I also have plenty of reference books. If you end up looking at one locally, PM me and maybe I can be a second set of eyes.

If you need help in another part of the country, ask here if someone might be able to take a look at it and see if it is worth your spending the plane fare to go see it.

Paul
 

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350 HP Enough??? LMAO...not for a fast chick!! My car is too slow. Go for the 454...Black is very classy!
 

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I would not buy any car through ebay, especially a classic vette......

too much crap going on....and I would not pay a dime extra for 'matching numbers' as there are guys who do that for a living/large profit....

engine numbers are fairly easy to restamp....IF you know what you are doing....

figger that any shark is going to have a fair case of rust, i'ts a question of how bad, and was anything done over the years.....

I got lucky with mine, it was an old show car....the bird cage was taken down and totally gone over in the last repaint....

the frame is not perfect, but a far cry from being a POS either....solid enough to drive fine for 12 years now....

verts go more than t tops....., all the rest is up to you....
 

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I've had three C3's, a 70 with the 350/350hp, a 79 L82 and my current 78 L48. The rubber bumper cars have a better ride, IMHO, and the power can be boosted readily. However, the 70 was a blast as to power and acceleration, and got 20 mpg on the freeway to boot, with its 3.08 rear end.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea I like black also, What do yall think about the One with the 427 its the first link. I really like that one, I am thinking about taking those seats out and putting in black ones and adding some black pieces to the interior, clack handles on the door, stuff like that. The paint doesnt bother me I always planned on repainting the car. Im thinking that if it stays under 20 then Ill buy or even just a little over but not to much. Whats yalls opinions. Thanks

CV
 

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Yea I like black also, What do yall think about the One with the 427 its the first link. I really like that one, I am thinking about taking those seats out and putting in black ones and adding some black pieces to the interior, clack handles on the door, stuff like that. The paint doesnt bother me I always planned on repainting the car. Im thinking that if it stays under 20 then Ill buy or even just a little over but not to much. Whats yalls opinions. Thanks

CV
Before spending 20 grand on a car, you better have someone who knows what they are looking at check the frame and birdcage. Those are not visible in the pictures and make the difference between a car that is worth 20G and one that is a POS.
 

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There is a beautiful "looking" burgandy colored convertible with black interior on the other vette forum and the guy is asking around $22K. I think its a 69 and the guy is located right there in NC. He has owned it for 6 years and it was originaly a Florida car. It looks very clean, you can see it in person with another more knowledgeable forum member and if you are not concerned about numbers matching engine then this is a very nice looking car. I have no affliation with this guy...but if you are not concerned about original engine and want a fun driver convertible that you can swap out heads, etc. and not worry about originality then that would be the car I would buy.
 
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