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I need to replace the steel lines between the M/C and switch block. I'd like to use stainless lines, but from what I understand you can't double flare SS line with a typical flaring kit. So that leaves me with two options:

1. purchase prebent SS lines, or
2. bend my own regular steel lines

Bending my own is obviously more economical, but the SS may be worth it.
 

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Much easier if you go pre bent. But figure another steel line should last another 30 yrs.

Then again my Blazer brake line only lasted 10yrs. My sons Dodge truck same deal. Cheap steel they are using today.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
FWIW, I have has trouble with SS lines sealing. I won't use them again.
hadn't considered that. Is there a particular source for good quality steel hard line? I bought a Jegs kit a while back that came with some 1/4" line but I'm hesitant to even use it because I'm afraid it's just cheap ****...

Is SS a lot harder to bend, or is flaring the only real trouble spot? My previous lines ran much too close to my Hooker sidepipe headers for comfort so I'm concerned that if I purchase a set of prebent SS lines they will have the same issue and I won't be able to tweak it very easily to get more clearance.
 

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Any good auto parts stores carry "Bundy" tin plated steel lines, of various lengths. The problem with SS lines, besides being stiffer than reg. steel, is I have seen hair-line cracks in the second flare. Maybe due to it's hardness? Most Corvette parts vendors carry both regular and SS pre=bent lines.
 

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Is SS a lot harder to bend, or is flaring the only real trouble spot? My previous lines ran much too close to my Hooker sidepipe headers for comfort so I'm concerned that if I purchase a set of prebent SS lines they will have the same issue and I won't be able to tweak it very easily to get more clearance.
The SS lines we bought weren`t really that hard to bend. And we needed to bend them a lot:down:.
 

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Bought a pre-bent SS kit when I replaced all my lines, and had no regrets. Good Luck
 

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I bought some SS lines at Carlisle years ago for my 72. They were close but I did have to bend them. I did have to jump on the SS at some of the connections because of leaks at the flare. The best thing I found is to use the Motive bleeder and pump them up to 10-12 psi and watch the gauge, if there's a leak in the system it will show up. You have to do this for each circuit. Once I got them tight they have been fine. I was happy that I had to rebent the lines but by this time I don't expect much I get to fit. For example I have to machine every star wheel in new SS parking brake kits, fit every backing plate and deburr them, so I would expect to find the same with new lines. I would still use them. You can also buy a double flare tool if you stay with steel lines and make them up.:thumbsup:
 

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I clean all the manufacturing oils off with scotchbrite and solvent, then use rattle can engine clear. They stay pretty nice. Not stainless nice, but still better than uncoated. Total beer budget. High life. Not fancy imported green bottle budget. :cheers:

Good clear from a gun ends up too thick at the fittings, and cans are easier to spritz the assembled fitting cause it will be scratched during install.

good luck with the project
 
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