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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Me too. Small business in Scottsville Ky. Talked on the phone nice people. Will post pics when it arrives.

Have you ever used a Clamp Tite tool? Uses stainless steel wire to make clamps. That’s what I used to secure the insulation to the mid pipe. I’ve also used it on hoses works great. Some are two years old no leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Got lucky threads good enough to tighten. The only way to get studs from dealer is to purchase down pipe. Hate it when they do that. $700 to get $30 worth of hardware per side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Get ready for radio install with backup camera. Connections on the console were very difficult to undo. The lighter, power plug and traction control button were extremely difficult. Here’s pics of the interior tore down.
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At least you didn't have to take an air chisel to it like I did on my C5 so I could go from 1-1/2 DIN to 2 DIN
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
If you were wondering what kind of spaghetti it takes to replace a factory head unit. About two hours of soldering and heat shrinking. Plus I hate to admit reading the instructions. Was not all that difficult just double checking everything and not forgetting to put the damn heat shrink before you soldier.
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Ya PAC really messed up that whole wiring thing with putting connectors all around the module, didn't they?

You will want to power everything up and play with it before you put the dash back together. There is a programming button you need to access to setup the steering wheel controls. There are dip switches to set, and there are 2 speaker inputs you could be plugged into from the head unit. 1 for amped input and 1 for non amped input. And you can pretty much use either one you want with the difference being the volume level or range you get out of the head unit. And if I remember correctly isn't there also a volume or gain knob for this on the side of the module?

Anyways just make sure you power it up and are happy with the function of everything before you put it all back together.

As cool as that interface is I hate the uncontrollable mess it creates behind the dash. Just a piss poor implementation of an otherwise great idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Got it all hooked up had a little trouble with programming the interface. Did a reset and all’s fine. Routed the mic got it squared away made a couple of calls all good. Hooked up the IPhone music sounds so much better than the factory head unit. As a matter of fact everything sounds better than the factory head unit. All that’s left is to wire up the backup camera and stuff 600 miles of wire in bolt it up and go to the next project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Well I got the backup camera wired and the head unit in surprisingly there was plenty of room for the wiring in the dash. Sorry for the quality of the pictures shot with an IPhone six.
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Looking good.

At the rear backup camera it is important that you take power from the rear backup light bulb power but find a different place to connect the ground. Like directly to the frame.

The brake lights share this ground circuit with the backup light bulb and if you grab both power and ground for your camera directly from the backup bulb socket you get this flicker or hesitation to the backup video feed every time you step on the brake pedal which is the voltage drop on the ground circuit. If you are already connected this way, put the car in reverse to bring up the backup camera and then step on the brake pedal and release it a few times and notice the flickering of which I am explaining.

Ground the cam directly to the frame and grab power from the backup bulb harness and you will have stable video in reverse as you backup.
 
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