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The break lights in my 69 BB are't working properly....>>>
they work for a short while until it warms up and reaches normal operating temp> the tail lights work. I checked the switch at the pedal
and it seems to be working!!! (goes in & out).
all the ground is there???

Has anyone had this problem. I want to drive it...
 

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The break lights in my 69 BB are't working properly....>>>
they work for a short while until it warms up and reaches normal operating temp> the tail lights work. I checked the switch at the pedal
and it seems to be working!!! (goes in & out).
all the ground is there???

Has anyone had this problem. I want to drive it...
Check the turn signal switch. Brake light power is routed thru it. When the're not working, jiggle the t/s switch. See if they come on or flicker.
 

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Just don't break your BRAKE lights....:thud:

anyway, that BL switch puts 12+ onto the white wire, from the orange live feed if that don't light up the rear, you most likely have a bad ground in the rear harness going to frame, it gets rusty and messes up with all sorts of crap....also you may try adjusting that switch a bit to make sure it actually functions...hand a voltmeter on the white wire and watch it...maybe a small bulb, so you can see inside the circuit is working....

you maybe want to check the flat plug from the turn signal in the steering column is secure, and the plug right above the kick panel is secure....

these cars are so damn old now, you maybe want to take the lights apart and hit with a small shot of WD40 on the sockets, and scrub new bulbs in and outta there to clean the contacts a bit....

:cheers:

Edit, yes, the TS switch...but U don't wanna go there unless you have to...

:huh:
 

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Brakes? Oh, those things for parking?:rolling:

PARKING???:rolling: :crazy: :WTF HAS ANYONE here EVER got LAID in their sharks??? seriously DONE it??? and if so, HOW?? just a breif description of logistics involved.....

ME, we just rented a motel room, hell with it...

:devil:
 

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Just don't break your BRAKE lights....:thud:

anyway, that BL switch puts 12+ onto the white wire, from the orange live feed if that don't light up the rear, you most likely have a bad ground in the rear harness going to frame, it gets rusty and messes up with all sorts of crap....also you may try adjusting that switch a bit to make sure it actually functions...hand a voltmeter on the white wire and watch it...maybe a small bulb, so you can see inside the circuit is working....

you maybe want to check the flat plug from the turn signal in the steering column is secure, and the plug right above the kick panel is secure....

these cars are so damn old now, you maybe want to take the lights apart and hit with a small shot of WD40 on the sockets, and scrub new bulbs in and outta there to clean the contacts a bit....

:cheers:

Edit, yes, the TS switch...but U don't wanna go there unless you have to...

:huh:
That is where all the power goes into and also out to the rear harness. Unclip this connector from the steering column and test for power from the brake switch going into it and for both left and right brake lite power going out of it. All separate wires. Turning on the signal for 1 side cancels that brake and turns on that signal, but it uses that same wire for that same side.
Common for the contacts in that connector to be oxidized, so cleaning the contacts may cure it.

If your signals work, then your fuse/rearbulbs/sockets are ok.

If your tail lites/signals work then your ground at rear is okay, but clean it anyway, above drivers muffler on frame.

Not necessarey to access t/s switch for testing.
 

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I have run into this a number of times and it was always the switch. I would remove the switch, leaving the wires plugged in and by wiggling the button the brake lights would work. That switch as a stock item at the parts store.
Nothing special.
Since I ran into this a few times I installed a 30 amp relay and use the brake switch to trigger the relay. That switch is light duty for the job it performs so a 30 amp $5 relay is much more up to the task.
Remove the switch, just a large nut and work it by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Brake Lites

I have run into this a number of times and it was always the switch. I would remove the switch, leaving the wires plugged in and by wiggling the button the brake lights would work. That switch as a stock item at the parts store.
Nothing special.
Since I ran into this a few times I installed a 30 amp relay and use the brake switch to trigger the relay. That switch is light duty for the job it performs so a 30 amp $5 relay is much more up to the task.
Remove the switch, just a large nut and work it by hand.


THANKS FOR ALL THE IMPUT GUYS, I KNEW THAT IN ALL THOSE WISECRACKS SOMEONE (ALL) WOULD COME THRU.

I'LL CHECK THE GROUND ON THE FRAME. I'M LEANING TOWARD THE SWITCH SINCE THEY WORK WHEN THE CAR IS COLD. AND STOP WORKING AT WHEN THE FOOT WELLS GET HOT.!!!!:spanked: :spanked: :thud:
 

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I have run into this a number of times and it was always the switch. I would remove the switch, leaving the wires plugged in and by wiggling the button the brake lights would work. That switch as a stock item at the parts store.
Nothing special.
Since I ran into this a few times I installed a 30 amp relay and use the brake switch to trigger the relay. That switch is light duty for the job it performs so a 30 amp $5 relay is much more up to the task.
Remove the switch, just a large nut and work it by hand.
Sorry Norvall. I think that's a tad bit overkill. Those lamps don't draw crap.
 

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Sorry Norvall. I think that's a tad bit overkill. Those lamps don't draw crap.
I know they don't draw alot of power but after going through a couple of switches I just decided that a $5 relay should solve the problem. The switch on the brake pedal is really a crappy little thing while a bosh relay is alot better built.
I tend to like relays.
 
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