Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently Ive been working on all the little problems associated with getting my project back on the road. Last night I was working under the dash (attaching the tach) and putting the center consol back together. After finishing I reattached the battery and tried to crank the car, but got nothing, no click no anything. Previously the starter would spring to life immediately and my electric fans could be turned on using my backup switch. Now neither works. I busted out my trusty volt meter and started probing around. I have 12V at the starter and inlet to the fan relay, but no keyed power. I checked the IGN terminal on the fuse box (where I get power for the relay switch for the electric fans) and get nothing. Headlights, brake lights, turn signals, headlight indicator light in the center consol all work.

I think that means either something in the fuse panel or the ignition switch went bad. Any experts care to weigh in with your opinions?

Is there a way to temporarily bypass the ignition switch so I can keep trouble shooting in the event I need to order a new ignition switch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,206 Posts
First, does anything work (headlights, dome light,flashers) if not Its got to be the ground between the battery and the frame or the ground between frame and engine on the bottom of the pass motor mount

Second, the ignition switch is mounted on the steering column near the floor and is adjustable front to back. This adjustment aligns the key swich with the electric switch (when your key is in the "on" position the switch is centered on the "on" contacts). I found how touchy this adjustment can be when I had to change the rod that connects the key lock to the switch. I had to move the switch closer to the key switch in order for the "start" contacts to engage but then my "acc" position would not work.

If your dash is out its not to hard to remove the switch from the column and operate it manually with your fingers

Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First, does anything work (headlights, dome light,flashers) if not Its got to be the ground between the battery and the frame or the ground between frame and engine on the bottom of the pass motor mount

Second, the ignition switch is mounted on the steering column near the floor and is adjustable front to back. This adjustment aligns the key swich with the electric switch (when your key is in the "on" position the switch is centered on the "on" contacts). I found how touchy this adjustment can be when I had to change the rod that connects the key lock to the switch. I had to move the switch closer to the key switch in order for the "start" contacts to engage but then my "acc" position would not work.

If your dash is out its not to hard to remove the switch from the column and operate it manually with your fingers

Hope this helps
Your second point maybe a big clue. I have a telescoping column and I moved it in and out a few times to get under the guages. Can you be more specific about where the switch is in or on the column and what you adjusted to make it work?

Thanks, that is a big help (BTW lights etc work and I have 12V at the starter).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,206 Posts
The switch is located on top of the column right where the column bolts to the underside of the dash. (thus it a little protected from theives being that its trapped between the colum and the metal box tunnel that supports the pedal assembly)Like I said before, if your dash is out you should be able to see the switch if you peek between the colum and the dash.

To remove you will have to drop the column and you will see a plastic asembly about 2" long and 3/4" wide with a plug and the plasic housing is captured in a metal frame that is attached to the column with (2) screws. You adjust the switch position by loosing the screws and sliding the switch along the column and re- tighten.

When I was having my problem, I could tilt the steering wheel all the way to its lowest position, turn the key to the start position and release the tilt lever and let the steering wheel snap up and that would allow the key to engage the switch far enough and the car would turn over for a brief second. Thats how I figured there had to be some kind of adjustment
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The switch is located on top of the column right where the column bolts to the underside of the dash. (thus it a little protected from theives being that its trapped between the colum and the metal box tunnel that supports the pedal assembly)Like I said before, if your dash is out you should be able to see the switch if you peek between the colum and the dash.

To remove you will have to drop the column and you will see a plastic asembly about 2" long and 3/4" wide with a plug and the plasic housing is captured in a metal frame that is attached to the column with (2) screws. You adjust the switch position by loosing the screws and sliding the switch along the column and re- tighten.

When I was having my problem, I could tilt the steering wheel all the way to its lowest position, turn the key to the start position and release the tilt lever and let the steering wheel snap up and that would allow the key to engage the switch far enough and the car would turn over for a brief second. Thats how I figured there had to be some kind of adjustment
Thanks a lot. The more I think about it, this sounds exactly like what my problem is. Wish me luck. :thumbsup::laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,206 Posts
Thanks a lot. The more I think about it, this sounds exactly like what my problem is. Wish me luck. :thumbsup::laughing:
Now that you told me you have a tilt/ tele colum, thats exactly what I have, What started my problem is the rod between the key switch and the electical switch. It has a grear slide on the end where the key lock engages and the rod allows room for the tilt to work. My gear was broken in two and itermitantly would not work. to replace this part is a real PITA. you have to dis-assemble your whole upper portion of the column hope you don't have that problem good luck this weekend :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
I had a simular situation a couple of years ago,at a very busy set of traffic lights it flooded and stalled,DOH.lights turn green no crank!! pushed it across intersection with help from son to side of road(slightly down hill):lookinup: jumped terminals at starter to have it fire up. continued to the friday night cruise without a problem. thought about it for a week to come to the conclution it was because i had dropped my collum down to near the bottom,and lifted it when i got back in after the no start situation. so now i dont tilt it at all.:D
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
3,084 Posts
Mike [ btw hello long time no see ]

do you have a auto trans or a 4 speed ?

if it is a auto trans could be that neutral switch ???

good luck with this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update

Got a chance to work on it Friday night. Turns out the power wire had come out of the switch. The bad news is I had no idea which port its supposed to be installed. I busted out my trusty volt meter, moved the switch to the ignition on position and started checking continuity. I identified 1 pole which had continuity to most of the other poles, and no other pole had continuity to any other pole. I installed the power wire into that port, plugged everything back up, switched it on and my fans immediately came to life (manual backup switch allows me to use them as the perfect guinea pig vs the starter). I quickly turned the switch back off and started putting it all back together.

After getting the column back up, I started hooking the battery back up. My friend told me to stop when one of the wires going to the drivers side engine compartment relay (right next to the brake booster) fried itself. Right now I have the switch back out and cant figure out why that point would have gotten a spike.

Does anyone have an ignition switch schematic? Any idea why that relay would suddenly get a spike with the battery hooked up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Sounds to me like you have more of a short to ground in the underhood wire circuit that fried. I would back-check the work you just did and trace that wire to see the source of the problem.
I don't know of any individual diagram for your ign switch, or if they even made them. But the whole car diagram shows the in/out feeds for the switch. The challenge is figuring out which wires are fed power on each of the switch positions.
Rusty memory review:
ACC: radio (+ additional acc if app)
OFF: nothing
RUN: everything except starter
START: starter & ign
I have an early 1970 wiring diagram in .pdf if this will help you.
Shoot me a PM with your email addy and I'll fwd it to you.
Good Luck :cheers:
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top